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At least what's a real 30a rated battery. I'm playing with a comp build. 4-5 second max pulse. Also, the ohm is just a guess. I did a single coil build which came out to .224. Trying to figure out if it would be feasible to do a dual coil build or not.
18650 Battery Ratings Table | E-Cigarette Forum
Curious: Is there a particular reason for you to test the limitations of your mod/battery with the coils you build?
Curious: Is there a particular reason for you to test the limitations of your mod/battery with the coils you build?
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You don’t want to go that low on a single battery mech at all generally. The highest draw batteries are 30amp draw
You'll get different answers but with a mech (single 18650), I stick to never going below .25. Meters can be off, I have several meters and mods, rarely do any of the say the same thing unless it's 0.
If you want to go to .1 range, you're better off with a multiple battery mod. That's not just for safety but power as well. That low of a build won't give much time on a single battery at all. The battery will literally be on the charger more than in the mod.
EDIT: Forgot to ask, what mod and atty are you planning to use?
4-5 seconds, isn't considered pulsing. Pulsing is on/off, on/off basically bumping the firing button. Don't look at pulse rating, ignore that number, it means less than nothing.
No 18650s are safe at that resistance. It sounds like you could use a little background to help you understand battery capabilities and mech safety. Mooch and Baditude both have very helpful blogs here.
If you prefer videos, Mooch's Minding Your Mechs series is great:
Battery Mooch
If you'd rather read, you might want to start with these posts from Baditude:
- (16) Explain it for the dumb noob: Ohm's Law calculations for a Mechanical Mod. | E-Cigarette Forum
- (9) Battery Basics for Mods; the Ultimate Battery Guide | E-Cigarette Forum
Both blogs include a list of recommended batteries and their specs where you can find true 30A batteries.
It's a rogue mech, and I just grabbed a dead rabbit rda until I find a better brass atty to match.
The highest I've built ever was a dual at .45. Just doesn't give me the vapor production I enjoy. I have recently decided to try mechs out. I usually vape at .1-.15 on a regulated dual cell mod at about 100w or so.
Then observe what your double battery mod does to your voltage when setting it to 100W, and how much ampere it draws (should be visible on the screen as soon as you press fire). Your single battery mech mod can't compete with that.
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That's a hybrid style isn't it? If it's your first mech, really be sure the center pin extends so you don't get a short.
If 100W isn't giving you what you need, then like stated earlier a mech won't either. If you mean vapor as seeing big clouds, just use straight VG.
I'm not trying to tell you or anyone how to vape but I will say this....If you are satisfying the urge not to smoke and getting good flavor but are just wanting clouds, I personally would just quit worrying about the clouds.
Now if you're using max VG and not getting the craving part taken care of and the flavor is off, as well as wanting clouds, I get that. You're wanting a satisfying or "useful" vape. That is a whole different animal. If this is the case I would look at a different topper not a mod or changing how you build or changing liquids.
I'm running a Twisted Messes v1 with a .25 and a Twisted Messes Gold AF at .35 (give or take on both one bounces .23 to .25 and the other .35 to .37). I can crank up the mod open them up fully and get all the clouds I want but the flavor goes down. Now if I close the airflow down some and roll back the power, I still have plenty of vapor and flavor.
The v1 is running just plain old claptons a friend gave me and in the Gold I'm running 26ga contact coils 2.5mm ID, boring I know but they just work, lol. I personally don't get into all the exotic, I've tried it and just really can't tell a difference. Now I'm not saying exotics are bad, they just aren't for me but everyone is different.
Don't limit yourself with coil building (resistance, diameter, style), experiment with different ones. Try different placement inside the deck, be it high/lower and/or closer to the posts or closer to the airflow. Sometimes a couple mm's in positioning can make a huge difference.
Yeah, the Rogue is a hybrid-top, or direct battery, mechanical. Be sure to read my blog on mechanical mods, there is a section towards the end on direct battery or faux hybrid mods:
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
The ONLY juice attachment that you can use on these types of mods are ones with an extended center pin in the 510 connector. Not doing so will result in a VERY BAD DAY for you.- Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
__________________________________
The best batteries for super sub-ohm builds and cloud chasing competitions will be a true 30 amp battery. There are only a few of them.
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR
Even with a true 30 amp cdr battery, you can build no lower than 0.14 ohm total resistance on a mech, and that is without any margin of safety factored in. That value came from using Ohm's Law.
Don't fall for the advertising hype of the Chinese battery re-wrappers who claim amp ratings over 30 amps.
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Samsung 18650-20S 2000mah 30 amp CDR
Even with a true 30 amp cdr battery, you can build no lower than 0.14 ohm total resistance on a mech, and that is without any margin of safety factored in. That value came from using Ohm's Law.
Battery Amp Ratings: Continuous vs Pulse Ratings
Battery pulse ratings are useless! | E-Cigarette Forum
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!
Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded) Battery?
- As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Recently revised to make it even simpler to understand.
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Time Out a second.
If you are going to use a Mech Mod, the First Thing you have to be able to do is to Calculate the Battery Amp Draw for any given build.
So How Many Amps is a Single 18650 Battery going to have to supply if you have a 0.1 Ohm Build on a Single Battery Mech?
For a Single Battery Mech: Max Battery Voltage / Build Resistance = Battery Amp Draw
Using 4.2 Volts to allow for a Small Safety Factor...
=> 4.2 / 0.1 = 42 Amps
OK, now lets look for an 18650 Battery that has a Verified 42 Amp Constant Discharge Rating (CDR).
Guess What? There is No 18650 Battery that has that type of CDR. So that build Can't be used on your Single Battery Mech Mod. It's just Too Low of a Resistance.
---
A Better Approach when using a Mech would be instead of trying to Match the Battery to the Build is to match the Build to the Battery.
Say you have a New 20 Amp CDR Battery that is good Condition.
Since Voltage / Resistance = Amps. Then thru the Glory of Algebra we know that Voltage / Amps = Resistance
So plug in what you know and you get...
4.2 Volts / 20 Amps = 0.21 Ohms
So there you go. The Lowest Resistance that can be used for that New 20 Amp CDR Battery is 0.21 Ohms.
It would be Nice (and Suggested) if you would use in a little Larger Safety Factor by using something more like a 0.25 Ohms. But at least now you Know what the Lowest Build you should be using for that 20A Battery.
So now take a Sharpie Marker and write "0.21 Ohms or Higher" on your Battery. Then put a piece of Clear Scotch Tape over it.
And if you Do a 0.21 Ohm Build with your Mech and that Battery, and it Doesn't Get you where you Want to be, then put your Mech in the back of your Vape Drawer.
And start Shopping for a Regulated Mod.
Great points and love the fact you mention about room for safety. I think it doesn't get mentioned enough. Everyone gets hung up that a rating says "XX CDR", they forget these are still mass made products.
Regardless of spot checking and testing, nothing is ever 100%. We're human using machines made by humans, we make errors. We strive for perfection but it doesn't happen all the time. Then not to forget a new battery may be 100% but as it is used or sits in a warehouse, ships, sits in another warehouse, ships to consumer or retailer, it's been through a lot before we get it. Heck most of these batteries log more miles than many users do in a lifetime, lol.
Yeah... I have a 18650 that has taken a few Hard Drops. It was also inside a Mod that sat in Full August So-Cal Sun on a patio table all day. It Also has about 150 Cycles on it.
I would Never consider putting it in a Mech and then going down to the Bleeding Edge of its CDR.
It's more of a 18650 Flashlight Battery Now.
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Running a battery in a mech at its maximum rating is like trying to see if your car will do what's on the speedometer. Neither undertaking ever turns out good.
I'm very glad you asked the question.... And super glad you received the answers you did.
In no way can you compare a regulated build to a mechanical one. Also, sometimes you will get the best vapor production by building higher but with LESS mass, as more mass means more ramp up time, whether regulated or mod. You might actually do better with HIGHER ohms but a single wire build.
Also, in no way can you compare a regulated mod's vape to a single battery mech mod. You may find you enjoy a higher ohm build on a mech (single coil) in a different way than you enjoy a regulated mod. BUT YOU HAVE TO BUILD SAFE.
Also, there is no "best battery for ANY mech" you are really building the coils TO the battery, which is how someone like me, who enjoys a higher ohm build can safely use a different battery than the one you need, which as it stands currently, does NOT exist.
So you are going to have to go higher, and you need to be sure you've done your calculations correctly so you are staying within the safe zone for you, your build and your battery.
Good luck! I see no reason to NOT try a mech but you have some homework to do first.
Anna
In no way can you compare a regulated build to a mechanical one. Also, sometimes you will get the best vapor production by building higher but with LESS mass, as more mass means more ramp up time, whether regulated or mod. You might actually do better with HIGHER ohms but a single wire build.
Also, in no way can you compare a regulated mod's vape to a single battery mech mod. You may find you enjoy a higher ohm build on a mech (single coil) in a different way than you enjoy a regulated mod. BUT YOU HAVE TO BUILD SAFE.
Also, there is no "best battery for ANY mech" you are really building the coils TO the battery, which is how someone like me, who enjoys a higher ohm build can safely use a different battery than the one you need, which as it stands currently, does NOT exist.
So you are going to have to go higher, and you need to be sure you've done your calculations correctly so you are staying within the safe zone for you, your build and your battery.
Good luck! I see no reason to NOT try a mech but you have some homework to do first.
Anna
You don't have an ohm reader? Shame, shame. We don't guess at ohm ratings. That can get you into a world of trouble. An instrument to measure coil resistance is mandatory if you are gong to be using a mech. Always measure your coil resistance before firing it on a mod.
You can't rely on a coil app or calculator to give you a specific target resistance; there's too much chance for a human user error. User errors are almost totally to blame for battery venting, flames, or explosions in a mech mod.
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