Best device for non-sub ohm vaping

[NealBJr]

So now after refilling my melo tank I'm getting some heavy gurgling. I kicked up the wattage to see if it would burn it out (even after I cleaned the coil with a rolled up napkin tip. But it's still gurgling. Any advice?

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I have to agree with what sawlight said... they just aren't designed for that type of vaping.

Many atomizers use sort of a vacuum setup. when you restrict the airflow, it starts pulling from the tank. There are too many variables to really tell you what to look for, but I would go by what coils the tanks have to offer as a general guideline as to how it can be vaped. If a tank offers a higher ohm coil, then it should offer a lighter vape with tighter air draw at lower wattage. If the options for coils is .5 ohms or lower, then it's designed for the higher plumes and warmer vapes. restricting those tanks usually end up with floods.

 

[DaveP]

Tanks are designed for different types of vaping. Most of that is centered around juice channel size and airflow sizing. If you feed more juice you have to pull more air and generate more heat. It's a balanced combination.

I've tried DTL tanks like the Lemo and Lemo 2 and every time I turn them down to MTL airflow I eventually get gurgling from the loose juice feed that tries to keep the wick saturated more than I need for 10 watts.

I've had good success with the Squape [R]eloaded. The key there is to extend the wicking over the edge and down about halfway into the vertical part of the juice channels under the chimney. That slows down juice feed so that you can close down airflow.

 

[mcclintock]

No. Both modes vary the voltage. Vv does it directly without taking other factors into account. Vw reads the resistance and varies the voltage in order to reach the watts desired. Watts are a result of voltage through a specific resistance, it can't be directly manipulated. Flavor etc simply won't differ if choosing one over the other. The rest of the post has nothing to do with vv vs vw. I thought the need for these kinds of discussions was a thing of the past...

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I was going to like this until I saw the last line. It's still of interest.

The idea that you always get the same vape with different atomizers with VW: if they're actually different atomizers then they probably need different power settings. Meanwhile, most production coils and any coil with a mech in mind will run around the same voltage even if high or low power. So many would need to adjust VV far lesser amounts. However, with my RDA set to my airflow, I've found almost any coil needs the same power. If I put on another wrap (1.4Ω), use Kanthal (1.3), Nichrome (1.0), or SS wire (.6Ω), change the diameter, make a tiny coil of thick wire (.7Ω) or many wraps of thin wire, the maximum difference is .2 watts. This can require anywhere from 2.6 to 7 volts. So it's actually the case of the same atomizer with different coils that works best on VW.

The best part of VV is that, as the above post says, VW calculates the needed voltage while VV inputs it directly. Therefore, what you set is what you get. If for some reason the resistance changes unexpectedly VW will change the voltage automatically and most likely this will be the last thing you need. I'd like to see a VV mod with a Watts display the same size as the voltage, you'd set volts even when watching the watts.

As to the mod possibly changing the vape quality even at the same power setting, it has been claimed before. I haven't noticed it myself except that my Pico may need to be set .1-.2 W lower than my iStick 30. The 30 may produce a slightly better vape than a small EVOD battery, for tanks that can actually use either (placing such tanks on a adapter changes the airflow, however).

 

[Foggy Road]

So I just upgraded from my zmax v5 paired with Kanger aerotank mega bc my poor zmax has seen better days. It's bent and the screen is cracked. It still works, but I definitely needed to move forward. I bought the eleaf pico 75 with melo 3 mini mainly bc I was wanting something a lot smaller than my zmax and easy to hold for stealth vaping. Somehow I missed that this device is for sub ohming. I could kick myself since I bought 2 of them (one for my hubby) and neither of us care for the harshness and intensity of the subing. So my question is, what would a comprable device be to the zmax? But being more like the pico in size? I LOVE the hit my zmax gives, even more than my mvp or any other device I've owned. I like my coils around 1.8 ohms and keep my volts at about 3.7. I personally get the most flavor from this and a nice vapy drag.

I will tell you that I don't know much about TC other than the research I've done b4 buying the pico, but I have given sub ohming a good shot over the last few years, it's just not for me.

I've also attached my aerotank to the pico and didn't like that either. When I keeps wattage at about 7 (what I like on my non sub ohm mods) it's way too light, hardly and Vapor, but then when I kick it up, it's too hot and taste nasty, and still hardly any vapor production.

I'm desperate for advice, as my poor zmax probably won't make it another week. Thanks!

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For your consideration...

The one in the middle between the 2 SIDs w/18350 tubes. It's a Kangside Vamo 25w (does VV) 18350 box mod. Tiny little thing just barely larger than the mini Istick 10w.
Still available here but only in blue. Also available here in other colors without the red fire button (original version).

Edit: crap! It appears that second link is now sold out also! Knew I should kept it secret.

And I believe your ZMax V5 is also still available. The gang in this thread would be happy help you find them!

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Lots of variables, lots of comparing, and lots of reading. Even two different mods, at the same wattage, will produce different levels of power. Close, but consistency and even the battery, can waver and make a difference.

 

[Rancor0681]

not adding the the arguement.

This is somthing you should have thought to yourself and pressed the back button. Totally unneeded in here.

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[NealBJr]

This is somthing you should have thought to yourself and pressed the back button. Totally unneeded in here.

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Yea, but there's so many "what if's and "but if's" to the argument that I didn't feel it would be very productive.. just a matter of pride.. I'll let the other person get the last word just for the sake of it's not really worthwhile, and not really accomplishing anything. Originally had a post explaining..but then again, if you put it to unrealistic conditions, it might be, then we get into opinions, etc.... Not worth the time and way off base of the OP's questions.

 

[NealBJr]

I was going to like this until I saw the last line. It's still of interest.

The idea that you always get the same vape with different atomizers with VW: if they're actually different atomizers then they probably need different power settings. Meanwhile, most production coils and any coil with a mech in mind will run around the same voltage even if high or low power. So many would need to adjust VV far lesser amounts. However, with my RDA set to my airflow, I've found almost any coil needs the same power. If I put on another wrap (1.4Ω), use Kanthal (1.3), Nichrome (1.0), or SS wire (.6Ω), change the diameter, make a tiny coil of thick wire (.7Ω) or many wraps of thin wire, the maximum difference is .2 watts. This can require anywhere from 2.6 to 7 volts. So it's actually the case of the same atomizer with different coils that works best on VW.

The best part of VV is that, as the above post says, VW calculates the needed voltage while VV inputs it directly. Therefore, what you set is what you get. If for some reason the resistance changes unexpectedly VW will change the voltage automatically and most likely this will be the last thing you need. I'd like to see a VV mod with a Watts display the same size as the voltage, you'd set volts even when watching the watts.

As to the mod possibly changing the vape quality even at the same power setting, it has been claimed before. I haven't noticed it myself except that my Pico may need to be set .1-.2 W lower than my iStick 30. The 30 may produce a slightly better vape than a small EVOD battery, for tanks that can actually use either (placing such tanks on a adapter changes the airflow, however).

that was essentially what I was going to write earlier.... then I thought... what if you make a 1.8 ohm coil out of 22 gauge... 4.2 volts won't do much to it.... of course it would need over 30 wraps, but that's just a hypothetical setup... like something the FDA would use for their testing.

I generally tend to go by what most coils are made by.. somewhere between 6-10 wraps. Ohms would be adjusted more by gauge. to get a general ballpark, and the number of wraps to get a more precise number. 30 watts on a subtank .5 ohm coil is a good vape... 30 watts on a protank 1.8 ohm coil is bad. however, 4.0 volts on either is fine. There's so many variables.. like wire gauge, wraps, wick/wire type etc.. that you could write a book about it. That is why I'm not against Variable Voltage, it has it's uses in a lot of instances.

 

[KenD]

I was going to like this until I saw the last line. It's still of interest.

The idea that you always get the same vape with different atomizers with VW: if they're actually different atomizers then they probably need different power settings. Meanwhile, most production coils and any coil with a mech in mind will run around the same voltage even if high or low power. So many would need to adjust VV far lesser amounts. However, with my RDA set to my airflow, I've found almost any coil needs the same power. If I put on another wrap (1.4Ω), use Kanthal (1.3), Nichrome (1.0), or SS wire (.6Ω), change the diameter, make a tiny coil of thick wire (.7Ω) or many wraps of thin wire, the maximum difference is .2 watts. This can require anywhere from 2.6 to 7 volts. So it's actually the case of the same atomizer with different coils that works best on VW.

The best part of VV is that, as the above post says, VW calculates the needed voltage while VV inputs it directly. Therefore, what you set is what you get. If for some reason the resistance changes unexpectedly VW will change the voltage automatically and most likely this will be the last thing you need. I'd like to see a VV mod with a Watts display the same size as the voltage, you'd set volts even when watching the watts.

As to the mod possibly changing the vape quality even at the same power setting, it has been claimed before. I haven't noticed it myself except that my Pico may need to be set .1-.2 W lower than my iStick 30. The 30 may produce a slightly better vape than a small EVOD battery, for tanks that can actually use either (placing such tanks on a adapter changes the airflow, however).

I'm not sure what you don't like in my post. I was complaining about the need to dispel the myth of "xx gives a better vape". Different tanks, coils etc will definitely require different power settings so vw is not set and forget.

I agree with your post, and the idea of a mod where you'd adjust the volts while seeing the results on the watts in large is great! That's how a vw mod adjusts so why not display it like that? Both vv and vw might give a horrid vape, depending on what in the resistance variable changes. If the resistance reading changes but the actual resistance remains the same, vw will change the watts and give a bad vape. However, if the actual resistance changes vv will give a bad vape. If the resistance changes and the reading accordingly, properly functioning vw would give a better vape.

Oh, and yes, different mods will read the resistance a bit different so slight adjustments in power settings are required.

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[mcclintock]

^^-- I liked your post, but couldn't Like button it and just be done here, because it touched on my thoughts but did not complete them, and then added "I thought the need for these kinds of discussions was a thing of the past..." My reply was getting into it slightly deep, but there was already a lot of discussion of it on this thread.

 

[DaveP]

Voltage is what fires the coil. It doesn't matter if it's a VV mod or a VW mod or a TC mod. The coil gets a voltage value based on a user setting. If you set wattage mode, then the electronics calculate a voltage that produces the wattage for a given resistance atomizer. It actually sends a voltage to the coil no matter whether you are set for wattage or voltage.

Recent mods today are all higher frequency voltage synthesizers. A mech mod delivers straight DC voltage. A variable mod delivers pulsed voltage. The higher the frequency the more it's like straight DC. You can hear the crackle more on some mods than others that sizzle quietly if you press the fire button and hold the drip tip to your ear. It's called pulse width modulation.

The important part is finding a mod that you like and one that gives you the vape you like. Phil Busardo says it best in this video that shows the waveforms that various mods produce on a scope.

 

[GeorgeS]

I just picked up two new Vmax V5's on Ebay. Great devices.

I'll have to admit, sometimes I enjoy a tube mod. Something about the form factor. The V5's are built like tanks.

 

[Kat Eyez]

You can try to clean it out, as suggested above, but I fear this is a culmination of restricting the airflow, I have a similar problem with my Theorum atty, using it as you do, restricted drip tip and airflow shut down. I get mouthfuls of juice, randomly.
They just are not designed to this style of vaping, so we make do and deal.

So I've been looking around to see what other devices might be better suited to my taste, since I too think you are correct in your assumption that it's a trade off with these sub ohm attys. I'm probably going to get yet another aerotank bc I absolutely love my first one that's lasted me years. But I'm also wondering about the eleaf istick 1050 mah. It's one of the few vv devices I can find. Anyone had any experience with this device and set up?

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[Kat Eyez]

For your consideration...

View attachment 593555
The one in the middle between the 2 SIDs w/18350 tubes. It's a Kangside Vamo 25w (does VV) 18350 box mod. Tiny little thing just barely larger than the mini Istick 10w.
Still available here but only in blue. Also available here in other colors without the red fire button (original version).

Edit: crap! It appears that second link is now sold out also! Knew I should kept it secret.

And I believe your ZMax V5 is also still available. The gang in this thread would be happy help you find them!

Thank you so much for the suggestion! I'm going to check it for sure! Iv been considering the mini istick 10w. I have a few vamos and for some reason I tend to prefer my zmax over them. Could just be thst I never gave them a fair shot. Thanks again!

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[Kat Eyez]

I just picked up two new Vmax V5's on Ebay. Great devices.

I'll have to admit, sometimes I enjoy a tube mod. Something about the form factor. The V5's are built like tanks.

That's the one I have and simply cannot part with. The poor thing has been dropped so many times I can begin to count. I've put it back together each time and yet it still works great for the most part. I just know one of these days it's not gonna make "the next drop" lol. Plus, I'm beginning to feel the need to go smaller, thus the change to the pico. But I can see from all you fine folks that I have many more options than I originally thought. [emoji6] [emoji2]

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[MadVLN]

So I've been looking around to see what other devices might be better suited to my taste, since I too think you are correct in your assumption that it's a trade off with these sub ohm attys. I'm probably going to get yet another aerotank bc I absolutely love my first one that's lasted me years. But I'm also wondering about the eleaf istick 1050 mah. It's one of the few vv devices I can find. Anyone had any experience with this device and set up?

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maybe look into the istick Ipower nano. it's basically the newer version of the istick 10w, which is what i think you were referring to. the nano is 1100mah and goes up to 40w and should be an improved design over the istick 10w. the newer isticks are much better than they were a year or so ago as far as design and reliability.

don't think of these mods as "sub-ohm" mods. just because they can handle sub-ohm builds, they can power higher ohm builds just as well.

for a tank, maybe look into the nautilus X. it will provide a similar draw to the aerotank, but in a more modern/sleek package IMO.

 

[Foggy Road]

Thank you so much for the suggestion! I'm going to check it for sure! Iv been considering the mini istick 10w. I have a few vamos and for some reason I tend to prefer my zmax over them. Could just be thst I never gave them a fair shot. Thanks again!

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Yeah I have 2 cheap Vamo clones and much prefer my Sigelei ZMax V3s. Some folks say Kangside created the original Vamo and all others are clones. Nobody really knows for sure *IMO*. But I do own 3 Kangside Mods and all 3 have been faultless and very solidly built devices. I like my mini Istick 10w, don't get me wrong, but compared to that little Vamo box it is a quirky little cheap feeling
toy.

Here's a better comparison of the mini and the Vamo box. Both disappear in my shirt pocket even with those 5ml Lemo tanks attached.

 

[nancybout]

Love the Pico
I say same. Grab that and later on if tiki wish to build etc u have a modmy hat can handle igneous it should last two days lol


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[Marst]

Just found a SMOK Bec Pro 50W tube on eBay a week ago.
No TC, VW and VV only but with Bluetooth to connect it to a smartphone.
Similar to my Vamo's and Sigelei tubes, but stronger.
Great for my Tilemahos X1 which needs some 20-25W to produce its perfect taste.

 

[DaveP]

I remember this thread from a long time ago!

I'll leave this for consideration for the early posts in this thread.

4v on a 2 ohm coil produces 8 watts at the coil.

8 watts on a 2 ohm coil produces 4v at the coil.

It's all good. If there's a difference in the vape it has to be due to the accuracy of the mod in one mode or the other. That, or frequency issues in the voltage regulation of a particular mod.