A Lemo is going to look strange as it is 23mm.
Here are my SMPL clones with Hobo clones. They work very, very well and look great, IMO.
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Which version of smpl and hobo clones did you get? A-MOD? Tobeco?
There are good and bad clones.I've heard a lot of bad things about clones .
There are good and bad clones.
There are good and bad legit mods.
Generalizations are usually wrong.
Funny thing........You'll hear a ton of bad things about clones from people who don't own them.
I have a smpl on its way and plan on using it with the orchid and the hobo if I like it(on it's way too)
but for looks I think the best match would be between these two
aeolus
$10.98 AEOLUS Style RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm dia. at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
rouge
$9.84 Rogue Style RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
both offer a complete minimalist look without logos or airflow holes, I could look like a complete tube from start to finish specially the rouge
There are good and bad clones.
There are good and bad legit mods.
Generalizations are usually wrong.
Funny thing........You'll hear a ton of bad things about clones from people who don't own them.
I like my Tugboat on mine with brass drip tip.
This is an embarrassing question, so be kind:
I've been using mechs for a year. NO problems, never a short. I have them down and I love them. Thinking of trying a SMPL, but the direct connection to the RDA looks short-prone. Is there any kind of insulation on the top of that mod? Is there any way of figuring out if the positive post is sticking out enough?
Is this thing safe??
Also: all my batteries are flat top. Do I need button tops?
You just need to make sure your atty's 510 pin protrudes from the connector. And, no, there are no insulators in the SMPL or any of its clones (at least not mine). As long as the battery's positive pole doesn't make contact with the negative side of your atty's 510, you are all good.
Also, I only use flat tops in my SMPL clones. It is the single easiest mech to set up, IMO. Screw atty on flush (making sure 510 is protruding from connector), insert battery, screw in switch. Done.
Thank you! Which would you recommend? These two from FT have different switches (I love brass btw)
$15.51 SMPL Style 18650 Mechanical Mod - brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
or
$19.00 SMPL Style 18650 Mechanical Mod - brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Neither of mine have a magnet switch although my stainless clone has a switch with the screw in button. My copper has the snap ring switch. Honestly, I'm not sure how a magnet switch could make either one much better. The throws are super short and I can fire both from pretty much anywhere on the button. I've run builds of .25ohm on each with no issues. I guess I'd go with whichever has the better FT reviews.
If you don't mind my $.02, Between those two, I would absolutely go with the $19.00 version as it has a switch that is at very least a decent copy of the first generation SMPL switch, the switch that you see in the $15.51 version is a completely different(And IMO horrible) design. One of the benefits of the SMPL is that the switch contact is one piece with the button, this allows for much better conductivity over time as they are no threads to clean where the contact would normally screw in to the button, nor does it ever need adjustment. Another benefit is the size of the contact on the switch that is a 1:1 copy, the contact area is significantly smaller on the crappy magnetic switch. I would avoid ANY SMPL clone with that magnetic switch that has the flat head slot and removable contact.Thank you! Which would you recommend? These two from FT have different switches (I love brass btw)
$15.51 SMPL Style 18650 Mechanical Mod - brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
or
$19.00 SMPL Style 18650 Mechanical Mod - brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping