JohnKing- Your mix looks to be a bit heavy on the water in relation to the oil. This might make it a bit on the weak side. I think at this stage the oil should represent at least three quarters of the mix.
- Status
I made the ash from translucent oven-baked clay. It is a standard atty in there - but the filter is shortened by 10mm (possible when all the fluff it taken out). I used to stand outside bars and pubs puffing away on this with all the regular smokers and never bother telling them it was electric... no one ever noticed
Sadly it has now acquired a lose wire somewhere and I can't face all that micro-surgery again!
Am thinking of trying the snus / dist water thing myself. Couple of questions
1. Could I just use the tobacco from cigarettes instead?
2. Wouldn't a squeeze of lemon juices added to the first snus / dist water product further alkalize the mix?
3. What theoretically would be the differance between the snus / dist water and the cigarette tobacco / dist water - if any worth considering?
sorry chemistry folk for the simplicity of my questions and I know if I sifted through the whole thread I might find the answers, but I kind of need this explained to me as if I were ten years old, if you know what I mean and the only reason I am going to try this method is due to it's simplicity as all the others are way too advanced / time consuming for me.
Another thing.
Nicotine form combustion of tobacco hits very fast and then peaks pretty quick too.
From vapor it hits a lot more slowly and has a much longer half life, I read it;s around 2 hours compare dot 20 mins from a cig, if I remmeber correctly.
So that could well be the reason virk and his friend got an initial 'rush' from vaping his snus and then it wore off - because it has slower action and because the levels of the psycoactive ingedients remain constant for longer - thus one wouldn't get the headrush as that would only come once the levels had spiked and then depleted, leading to a renewed dosage.
does that make sense? Darn for someone who wants to write for a living eventually, when it comes ot the tech jargon i feel like a 12 year old kid...
Nicotine form combustion of tobacco hits very fast and then peaks pretty quick too.
From vapor it hits a lot more slowly and has a much longer half life, I read it;s around 2 hours compare dot 20 mins from a cig, if I remmeber correctly.
So that could well be the reason virk and his friend got an initial 'rush' from vaping his snus and then it wore off - because it has slower action and because the levels of the psycoactive ingedients remain constant for longer - thus one wouldn't get the headrush as that would only come once the levels had spiked and then depleted, leading to a renewed dosage.
does that make sense? Darn for someone who wants to write for a living eventually, when it comes ot the tech jargon i feel like a 12 year old kid...
1) yes. If snus I think Virk keeps the powder in their little bags.
2) No, lemon is acid, not alkali; the acid is for extraction from oil.
3) Apparently almost no difference.
Really? So confusing, as a friend used to make papaver somniforum tea for pain management and supposedly adding lemon juice to the mix of hot water and ground dried papaver somniforum pods - helped relase more of the alkaloids from the organic material into the water.
No..?
So, if I use cigarette tobacco, I would be best wrapping it in a flter material to then soak in the dist water.
Man, this should have been so obvious... ah well, hopefully I'm providing some good laughs ha ha.
I can comprehend paritcle physics fine, but when it comes to getting out of my head and doing things with my hands.....
No..?
So, if I use cigarette tobacco, I would be best wrapping it in a flter material to then soak in the dist water.
Man, this should have been so obvious... ah well, hopefully I'm providing some good laughs ha ha.
I can comprehend paritcle physics fine, but when it comes to getting out of my head and doing things with my hands.....
Last edited:
It might, just that I don't know if will make any difference.
If using tobacco, no need to wrap - just use as is and filter afterwards.
Use as little water as possible - more like damping the tobacco than soaking it.
you can both be right!
alkaloids are neato molecules, because you can dress them up and take them out.
If you are going to take them out for a swim in water, you need to acidify them into their proton suits.
if you want to take them out on the town, to the NonPolar fine dining restaurant....It's a real slick place, and no bathing suits allowed..
so before you go, you must 'de acidify' or 'alkanize' or take off the bathing suit to get in.
how's that for a 10yo explanation?
Last edited:
you can both be right!
alkaloids are neato molecules, because you can dress them up and take them out.
If you are going to take them out for a swim in water, you need to acidify them into their proton suits.
if you want to take them out on the town, to the NonPolar fine dining restaurant.... no bathing suits allowed.. so must 'de acidify' or 'alkanize'.
how's that for a 10yo explanation?
Nice, very nice.
So taking them for a swim (making them more potent in the water extraction) is good if only going that far and then adding that to pg / vg juice.
For a more pure extraction with less or even zero water, one would want to alkanize them? Then one could add that extract to the juice with literally close to zero water as possible...?
Am I getting it?
I need to try this as nic juice isn't cutting the mustard for me.
It works as merely something to pacify the hand to mouth and blowing out a cloud habbit, you know, mimic the physical actions of smoking but the feeling just isn't there... And the flavor, the flavor of tobacco and texture is just so nice.... I am one of those people that just likes smoke and it's effect...
Last edited:
not looking good for batch megabatch #9.
Best I can recover in oil, is 95ml.
good news is, it's the amber colour I'm used to. I'm going to do a few alkanized washes, and attempt to get this as clean as I can.
Hope there is enough there in the end to actually measure.
Best I can recover in oil, is 95ml.
good news is, it's the amber colour I'm used to. I'm going to do a few alkanized washes, and attempt to get this as clean as I can.
Hope there is enough there in the end to actually measure.
yep.
The idea is that there are lots of molecules that can go for a swim in water, and lots that can go to the oil.
very few can doff and don the right apparel for both.
so, make them keep changing stripes back and forth, and only the alkaloids can get into both.
for a water only extraction, acid is the way to go.
Ok guys i'm going to bite the bullet on this.
How much water would one want to use for 20 cigarette worth of tobacco in your estimation (or just tell me the effect to go for - ie, just so the tobacco is damp / slightly more than damp / actually covered in the water.. etc..? I'm thinking absolute minimal water would be best and then do re-pressings, using again minimal water until the mush isn't yielding anymore.)
Thanks guys. I'll also re-read virk's posts on the matter on the day that I am ready to do this with all materials and eqpt on hand.
How much water would one want to use for 20 cigarette worth of tobacco in your estimation (or just tell me the effect to go for - ie, just so the tobacco is damp / slightly more than damp / actually covered in the water.. etc..? I'm thinking absolute minimal water would be best and then do re-pressings, using again minimal water until the mush isn't yielding anymore.)
Thanks guys. I'll also re-read virk's posts on the matter on the day that I am ready to do this with all materials and eqpt on hand.
That's a pity. There's a lot of oil left that is not clearing? Unless you can get most of it, it will not be a very accurate measurement of that stage (still good for subsequent testing though).
I thought we'd all know that
Not a huge difference but worth bearing in mind. What's the volume of 32g of citric acid? At a guess under 10ml; but point taken. And would that volume change on being dissolved ??? To a casual observer, the volume of water seems to barely change when dissolve stuff in it (even discounting the air in a powder / crystalline dry form.
I am wondering whether to stick with 25g in 100ml because the maths is simpler. And if have a 50g tub, one knows to use half of it. However, probably better to go with the 32/33g (1/3 100) ...
You could decrease the water volume, but as long as you're sure you have enough acid, it's all good however you decide to do it..
One can't be certain, but I can't imagine too big a difference when dealing with pyridine/pyrrolidine backbones.
you can both be right!
alkaloids are neato molecules, because you can dress them up and take them out.
If you are going to take them out for a swim in water, you need to acidify them into their proton suits.
if you want to take them out on the town, to the NonPolar fine dining restaurant....It's a real slick place, and no bathing suits allowed..
so before you go, you must 'de acidify' or 'alkanize' or take off the bathing suit to get in.
how's that for a 10yo explanation?
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
