Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More

[Pigs]

My red camo & purple camo second order, sitting at LAX customs for 16 days super sad. Very happy for you Pigs - love that red camo.

It's thanks to you man. I didn't even know they existed.
I've been looking at it closely under my magnifying lamp - gotta take your hat off to SXK for the attention to detail.

I've only got one new dna 60 board and when I looked last night, it seems like they are sold out in most places. The Evolv shop has them but the shipping is super expensive to Australia - ends up being twice the cost of the one I bought locally.

 

[badinfluence357]

I'm waiting patiently for my tycoon. I went with the blue and black, I didn't want to copy pigs even though thats the color I wanted...
Lets see how it go's, Maybe I will get the olive if I like the mod.

 

[badinfluence357]

Here's the other DNA format schematic

 

[badinfluence357]

@Pigs, there is alot of good information in sxk bb thread . You can findl the dna wiring pictures and diagram there. My problem is identifying the correct wires that are bonded together on the pcb. I cant tell which is positive and negative on the button's...I just see two wires on each switch.

 

[crss]

badinfluence357​

Two wires on the same dna port = ground. You can ignore that wiring and install your two switches like this " Position 1 &2 is one switch circuit (( DOWN)). Position 6 & (Unused #2) is second switch circuit ((UP)) ". Have no fear + & - for your switch, just put each switch wire as noted above. Use the diagram i had sent you for dna board location.
#2 = ground & unused #2 also ground

 

[Tor R]

Happy Halloween guys!

I have escribe and other pictures with the wiring. Even at the beginning of this thread there's good info and build pics. My problem is only the up and down button wiring. I rebuild one mod a while back and I think I got lucky with the wiring. I cant tell what two wires I need to combine and solder when having separate up and down tactile buttons. I cant tell which Is the positive or negative by looking at the the button. How do I test the wires? Also while soldering I get carbon pretty quickly and my rosin wire will not adhere the the pads. Yes I have flux paste and it doesn't help... Either my iron is too hot or the wire is .......View attachment 1003123

Pre soldier the wires, you quickly find out if the tin fits the material, if extra flux etc is needed, or if you need another tin.
and the same applies to the pads.

 

[Tor R]

dna external switches, if I have understood it correctly, the choice of switch + or - depends on which polarity we choose to take from the battery to the external switches.
If we choose - we must also choose negative switch connection to the chipset.

 

[Tor R]

It's thanks to you man. I didn't even know they existed.
I've been looking at it closely under my magnifying lamp - gotta take your hat off to SXK for the attention to detail.

I've only got one new DNA 60 board and when I looked last night, it seems like they are sold out in most places. The Evolv shop has them but the shipping is super expensive to Australia - ends up being twice the cost of the one I bought locally.

I haven't asked them when they will get the dna 60 chipset in, but Stealth Vape is the place I would shop from. As far as I know, that's also where Evolv's warranty is in Europe.

 

[Tor R]

Soldering, I am a beginner, and read more about the subject than I practice.
Flux agent, in soldering there are two types, you have one that contains acid and is meant for plumbers, and then there is flux that contains colophonium (rosin) and is meant for electronics soldering.
Solder wire, today it is mostly lead-free solder wire that is sold, it is what you can buy in any electronic store, there are also a few who obtain and sell tin lead solder wire. The latter has a lower melting point (190 instead of 210-220˚C) and usually requires a shorter melting time (less than half the time) to produce a good solder. It is less good for health, but in our project where we may be soldering 10 points to a mod, we are unlikely to be harmed by it.

 

[Pigs]

I haven't asked them when they will get the dna 60 chipset in, but Stealth Vape is the place I would shop from. As far as I know, that's also where Evolv's warranty is in Europe.

They were one of the places I tried after my local store that usually stocks them.
It's ok though - I still have one brand new dna 60 with large screen that I'd put aside for a rainy day.

 

[ShamrockPat]

..... but in our project where we may be soldering 10 points to a mod, we are unlikely to be harmed by it.

There's 10 just for the data/charger board, which is more than just the mod itself

 

[Tor R]

They were one of the places I tried after my local store that usually stocks them.
It's ok though - I still have one brand new dna 60 with large screen that I'd put aside for a rainy day.

Answer back from Stealth Vape:
Hi Tor,
Next week I hope. Evolv keep saying 1 more week.
Thanks
Rob

There's 10 just for the data/charger board, which is more than just the mod itself

You are of course right Pat, I envisioned Dicodes BF 60 chipset and completely forgot about the charger&data connection to the dna 60.

 

[Pigs]

Answer back from Stealth Vape:
Hi Tor,
Next week I hope. Evolv keep saying 1 more week.
Thanks
Rob


You are of course right Pat, I envisioned Dicodes BF 60 chipset and completely forgot about the charger&data connection to the dna 60.

Thanks for that Tor. I'll check in with Stealth Vape next week.

After your post about lead solder, I asked my tech mate and he agrees:
"Use the lead solder. It's easier to use than the unleaded which can be a bit tricky sometimes"

 

[Pigs]

My Vape and Make order arrived. Also some more button and inner panel options from 3fvape.
Got everything I need now (and spares) to start assembling the Red Camo BB.
Probably won't have time to start until next week

 

[badinfluence357]

I'm really really liking this mod. I'm actually happy that I chose the aluminum version as supposed to the 3d printed version. I'm afraid that the 3d version might have warping issues even though they advertise it as 1:1..
To be honest I think I'm going to purchase a 3d version anyway, to see for myself.

 

[Pigs]

Couldn't wait guys - I was sposed to be working but I decided this had to happen today. All done for now and seems to be ok.

Virgin board


Negative wires in


All done including up/down pcb wiring


Taking screen protector off
(BTW if you guys have any old sxk/sevo screens you should save them. They are exactly the same as DNA 60 screens)



And all put together and vaping!!

 

[badinfluence357]

@Pigs, your custom built mod came out beautiful...

 

[badinfluence357]

I would love to get another stubby but I have a problem with the finish. All the corners and edges are fading quickly. Any little ding or pocket rubbing becomes noticeable fast..The paint job isn't great for a $160 dollar mod..

 

[Pigs]

@Pigs, your custom built mod came out beautiful...

Thanks @badinfluence357 .
I went the easy route to start off - didn't wire an external fire button (yet) and didn't wire in the usb board. I might tackle those at a later date.

Also until I've sealed the pin under the atty, I won't fire it up again.
I'm on the fence whether to use a permanent adhesive like JB weld (thanks @crss ) or a silicon sealant of some sort. Any thoughts?

 

[BillW50]

I would love to get another stubby but I have a problem with the finish. All the corners and edges are fading quickly. Any little ding or pocket rubbing becomes noticeable fast..The paint job isn't great for a $160 dollar mod.

Wow! I haven't noticed this before. Maybe I should checkout the rest of mine. Maybe it is only the xray ones? Hopefully my Halloween themed Witch laser engraved one is still okay.

UPDATE: What I thought was the paint fading on one xray wasn't after I cleaned it up. I checked my other Stubbys and they all look fine too. I dunno what to say.