Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More
- Thread starter badinfluence357
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 19
Yeah the finish on my two Stubbys has held superbly, and I've had the og pink panther in daily use and abuse since I got it.
That is amazing! I don't know how you managed to get one. As they made very few of them (less than 250 of them I believe). You might want to put it into a glass display case and only use it on rare occasions. And when Vaperz Cloud in the US got them in, they sold out in about 7 minutes (they also cost more than the other Stubbys). And Suicide mods website listed one for... wait for it...
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I can post pictures of the fading on the Stubby. It's in the corners and along the thin door outlines and fine edges. I keep it in a soft case smashed in my pocket when I take it to work. That may be the problem. Another issue is why have an atty that your not going tobe using much. I would rather pay for just the mod at a lower price. It would be nice to have an option to buy just the mod.
No I had seen the picture of it and I totally agree with you. That wasn't good. I can't explain it though. They look anodized to me. Sure you could wear it off, but it takes a lot to do so. I dunno, maybe if it had a slight oil film on it before anodizing... that might do it.
I decided to use a silicon product called SikaSeal between the pin and its housing in the boro enclosure. It is designed for use with home appliances.
I also bought some Loctite Kintsuglue which is a type of mouldable putty. Again heat-resistant and non-conductive. I'm thinking of applying it around the join where the atty positive pin and cable emerge inside the board enclosure.
When I took apart a BBV BB I noticed they have a sealant like this under their pin.
I also bought some Loctite Kintsuglue which is a type of mouldable putty. Again heat-resistant and non-conductive. I'm thinking of applying it around the join where the atty positive pin and cable emerge inside the board enclosure.
When I took apart a BBV BB I noticed they have a sealant like this under their pin.
Would you believe that I actually won it on IG?
A brilliant local Australian site Vapr put it up as a competition prize. I nearly had kittens when they told me I had won. My first thought was to leave it boxed up, but that lasted all of 10 seconds. Now that I have my og purple haze, I might put the panther on a pedestal for a bit. Or maybe not.
OMG! That's amazing! That's like winning an Ultem Aspire Raga!! And couple it with a Purple Haze to boot!
Your new Tycoon looks great. Love that colour scheme
Well done, I think most silicone compound will be suitable for mod projects, available in lots of colors too.
What silicone is less suitable for is chemicals, technically speaking we don't use chemicals.
Chemicals silicone is not suitable for are: petrol, solvents etc.
I found a thread on Reddit of those using the Empire of having the same problem. And some of them that also had the Stubby was saying the same thing. One mentioned the negative contact gets really hot. That's a sign of a poor connection causing voltage sag. If you run into this again, try cleaning the thumbwheel and the threads and try it again.
I really dont know what the heck to do.. I feel like im going to muck this up. I have a used dna board with clogged pads from the prior build. I want my bxr back so bad but I dont want to damage the body..
Speaking as a beginner, I would take it slowly and make sure you had everything you needed before you start.
-Can you see everything clearly (glasses/light)
-Do you have flux and importantly, solder braid?
-Is your soldering iron tip in good condition and tinned.
The first job I would set would be to clean/remove old solder from all the through-holes and contacts on the DNA board. Braid and flux will make this easy.
This guy has a stack of good videos that explain clearly what techniques to use soldering small pcbs like the DNA 60
Ever try a solder sucker? A lot of people swear at them. But I've found with proper maintenance they work great. You expose the board to far less heat thus avoiding heat damage. Although with experience that longer exposure to heat shouldn't be a problem anyway, just saying.
To test a solder sucker before use is to put your finger over the nozzle and then release the plunger. If the plunger is just stuck there because the vacuum is holding it, you're good to go. If it doesn't, it is completely useless in this state.
If it doesn't, it needs cleaning inside. Which it will need in about every 6 to 12 uses anyway. Taking the plunger out, you can brush it with a soft brush, use your hand as a brush, wipe it with a paper towel, or something to clean it up. Inside the tube too. If you spending more than 15 seconds cleaning, you are overdoing the cleaning. Now here is a trick I learned where I don't believe I read anywhere. Use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the o-rings and move the plunger up and down inside to smear it inside of the tube. It should now be pulling a great vacuum by testing with the finger test. And you shouldn't need to apply petroleum jelly with every cleaning. As it should last through a number of cleanings.
All other sources say to clean them up and leave them dry. Sure that works when they are brand new, but they don't last long. The solder scratches up the tube, o-rings, etc. and thus preventing a good vacuum seal. The petroleum jelly besides acting like a lubricant by preventing scratches, also fills in existing ones.
The best thing I ever used to desolder with was a desoldering station. They too need cleaning, but far less often. They used to cost like $1500 and up. I have no idea what they cost nowadays. Far too costly for occasional use I am sure. Lacking a desoldering station, either desoldering braid or a solder sucker does work well too.
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