Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More
- Thread starter badinfluence357
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 29
I love this little atty, it helps with my mood when I'm feeling down..It performs well with most of the coil builds I put in it.
It's interesting that Phileas Cloud stock them as BBV original parts. I just checked their site BB Vapor don't sell them separately.Phileas Cloud - France.
They are original BB's, would not describe them as perfect, should I wish to solder the pins the other way for the easiest soldering.
Since they are significantly thinner than the ones we are used to, we have to use thicker double-sided tape, which in itself is only an advantage, but a bit of a hassle to find the perfect thickness
BBV have always been a frustrating company to deal with imo -such limited drops and won't include a usb ports for escribe connection.
I guess the mystique works for them as a business
Not sure what you mean by "original". The screens in BBVs and in SXK clones are exactly the same - brand and model number. I've now tested these new ones from Aliexpress and they work fine. The mark up that European stores like Stealth Vape, Vape and Make and Phileas Cloud put on these spare parts for Billet Boxes is piracy.
I don't believe BBV has the shop to manufacture hundreds at a time. So we get limited drops. And I don't believe you will ever see an USB port on a BBV. As BBV is pretty stubborn and if they didn't think of it first, it ain't going to be on any BBV devices. When I retired from Philips NV, they had the same attitude. At least we had Elemental Cerakote customize some BBV with an USB port for a few years.
Those 10 extra solder points is more than the setup now and must all be done by a human. That extra time costs money. The last time I saw an OG setup file it was stock/default with not even updated material files like NiFeXX or SS430. The OG theme was functional but I don't believe explained to the purchaser.
I haven't zoned in to my sweet spot on the Raga. Usually its .25 ohms / 26 to 32 watts. The Raga has that extra boost setting, Hard, Medium, Normal. I feel it fluctuates up or down on first hit after being idle on any of the curve settings, I don't know. Also the hits get weaker as the battery drains which is understandable, but you can't view wattage down throttle because the mod shows puff seconds instead of wattage when the fire button is pressed...
I hate mods that down throttle instead of maintaining wattage untill the battery is completely drained. Completely drained until its safety cut off voltage of course.
I take that back, I love all mods but dislike the DT setting on the pcb's used in some mod's
I hate mods that down throttle instead of maintaining wattage untill the battery is completely drained. Completely drained until its safety cut off voltage of course.
I take that back, I love all mods but dislike the DT setting on the pcb's used in some mod's
I guess it's partly the brand name people buy. The idea. Devices made in the USA with an aura of something special and a little hard to get.
Peak functionality not the motivation.
I was also annoyed at how difficult it was to get usb on the bb, it is not planned for evolv's usb chip on the bb.
But after I soldered the plugs on the chipset back and went in with stealth vape's upgraded dongle, I will never miss the possibility of having a permanent usb plug.
But after I soldered the plugs on the chipset back and went in with stealth vape's upgraded dongle, I will never miss the possibility of having a permanent usb plug.
That's different from my experience of the Raga. I have the boost setting on Hard and one of the things I really like about the device is how consistently fast it fires. Very responsive even after being idle.
Having said that, I rarely let my batteries drop below about 30 percent on any mod.
This is what I call a reliable pcb!
No Down throttle, maintains wattage to the last bar on my battery. I have mods that start the annoying zhit when battery is halfway..
No Down throttle, maintains wattage to the last bar on my battery. I have mods that start the annoying zhit when battery is halfway..
I haven't seen any down throttle on any of my mods in years. The last one that did this was a Smok M65. The negative contact was chrome plated brass. Just a horrible connection and the board would start throttling at >12 watts. If that wasn't bad enough, my board crapped out after 2 weeks and would only output 3.3v max. I had a hard time convincing Madvapes this wasn't normal (are they still in business?) and they sent me a Smok M65 v2 as a replacement after I sent the original back. V2 had a copper sticker on the negative battery contact.
This was a few months after I started vaping and I didn't have anything that could handle 65 watts as a MTL vaper back then. So I don't know if v2 could have reached 65 watts or not. I still should have it somewhere and pull it out and try it someday. By the time v2 came out, the model M65 v1 was seen as trash and it was too late to recover with the v2. Being a new vaper back then, I didn't know Smok was one of the early disposable mods. It is an incredibly tiny mod though. Far smaller than most of our BB style mods.
But you even mentioned that you had throttling even with a Stubby. I have over a dozen of them and I haven't seen this. But you are not alone, as I heard a few others say the same thing. You know a few people can't wear watches. As they will quit running in a day or so. Which has me curious, can you wear watches?
Going to madvapes.com redirects you to kurevapes.com. And they are still an Authorized Warranty Center for Smok. Wow! They have 73 stores now. Must be one helluva markup for Smok products.
I forgot to mention that a copper sticker was a real cheesy fix (if it actually gets you to 65 watts) if you ask me.
I had a watch stolen by a kookaburra from my windowsill when I was about 10 years old. Bloody bird.
You haven't seen down throttle in years? The Dna 60's down throttle now..when you hit the fire button on a depleted battery you will see the wattage go from your setting backwards. So basically if your on lets say 36 watts, your going to see the wattage go down to like 20 someting watts with a depleted battery.
If your not seeing the down throttle, your not looking for it on the screen when your battery is low or your vaping above 1. ohms on very low wattage. Thats the only reason I can think of for you not seeing it..
The Stubby does it too so I dont understand how you haven't seen it.. I wish I knew how to post video's
So maybe it only happens to me because I use SS 22 gage wire with five wraps to vape sub-ohm? Maybe if I use a thinner gage wire to vape above 1. Omhs it won't happen?
My gut tells me its a safety feature that was implemented when people started blowing batteries up in their faces and I don't like it..
I don't use my Stubby anymore because of that...I tried two pcb's both of them did the same exact thing. Now its sitting in pieces in a zip lock bag.
Not that this is necessarily a fix, but solderless chipsets such as Stubby and others need the chipset screws to be tightened quite hard to maintain good contact for the chipset.
As time passes and the mod is in use, the screws should be checked somewhat regularly.
PS, But of course, don't go so hard that the screw & mod threads are destroyed.
Since I like working with mod chipsets, I'm always going to prefer soldering, solderless will always have some risk of bad contacts.
Edit, I don't own Stubby, when I talk about tightening the contact screws well, it's that I see the patent as a weakness.
As time passes and the mod is in use, the screws should be checked somewhat regularly.
PS, But of course, don't go so hard that the screw & mod threads are destroyed.
Since I like working with mod chipsets, I'm always going to prefer soldering, solderless will always have some risk of bad contacts.
Edit, I don't own Stubby, when I talk about tightening the contact screws well, it's that I see the patent as a weakness.
Last edited:
True. It's always been the case in electronics applications where maintenance needs mean non-permanent connections. Any time a board needs to be able to be removed easily - whether it's screw connections like the Stubby board, or pressure fit examples like you see in most recording consoles built between 1960 and 2010. Modular/swappable. The designers understand it's a toss-up between a more perfect circuit (soldered contacts) and ease of removal (screws or pressure). One reason to buy De-Oxit and always keep your connections clean and tight as you say.
Yep, absolutely right T, good cleaning of contact surfaces is also very important.
It should be an interesting week for me as I hope the 2FDeal package can arrive at my door.
The StealthVape probably takes a little longer since it hasn't arrived at the customs authorities yet.
It will be good to finish all the projects.
Similar threads
