Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More
- Thread starter badinfluence357
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 19
Nice right! china it's basically making products 1:1 as the original counterparts. Using the DNA board just like the original is another reason why buying them is a no brainer. They've come along way from using hot glue to hold 510 connectors in place...
Well they're close at best. SXK uses the cheapest o-rings known to mankind, IMHO. And the SXK submarine rba does not use Philips screws like the OG shown in reviews from Todd. Ulton did it right.
The OG BMM38 has silver (plated?) internals, flushnut, + connection, and both battery contacts. This does not.
Yes, it probably works great, and we can't see the internals.
The OG BMM38 has silver (plated?) internals, flushnut, + connection, and both battery contacts. This does not.
Yes, it probably works great, and we can't see the internals.
dwcraig1, You will love that BMM38. Now to find some buttons n tip, get matchy. I have OCD and embrace it.
With USB-C, I found that I don't need so many micro usbs, they can be used for something else.
Will probably add an extension cable as well.
A rough sketch of DNA 80C:
I can already tell that the Stealth Vape bb switch should be redesigned, it would be much easier if the first soldered pad was a few millimeters longer, three millimeters would do everything.
If I were to do it over again, I would probably try to cut off at soldering pad 2, fingers crossed that it was possible to put the extra length of the flex cable under the chipset (I'll try it out when my purple bb gets the dna 60c chipset.).
Soldering wise, it was a difficult process but I think it turned out usable:
I bought kapton tape to insulate.
If I were to do it over again, I would probably try to cut off at soldering pad 2, fingers crossed that it was possible to put the extra length of the flex cable under the chipset (I'll try it out when my purple bb gets the dna 60c chipset.).
Soldering wise, it was a difficult process but I think it turned out usable:
I bought kapton tape to insulate.
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I had a challenging afternoon, when I assembled the bb with the dna 60c chipset, I couldn't get the external switch to work, it did work when the chipset and switch were loose, as soon as I put everything in place I tried before I screwed on the inner panel and then it didn't work.
Then I took a new Stealth Vape switch, did it a little differently so that the soldering was easier (i.e. I cut after soldering pad no. 2).
But, the end result was exactly the same.
In the end, I used an original bb switch that I had to trick with soldering a bit, and it works.
When I'm going to rebuild number three, I'll obviously try with the Stealth Vape switch first, and do everything as well as I can, of course with a new switch so that I've used them up, but if it fails I'll guess that the flex cable won't likes to be bent on lol
Then I took a new Stealth Vape switch, did it a little differently so that the soldering was easier (i.e. I cut after soldering pad no. 2).
But, the end result was exactly the same.
In the end, I used an original bb switch that I had to trick with soldering a bit, and it works.
When I'm going to rebuild number three, I'll obviously try with the Stealth Vape switch first, and do everything as well as I can, of course with a new switch so that I've used them up, but if it fails I'll guess that the flex cable won't likes to be bent on lol
I know JHFWI had issues with switches, breaking connect
ion. Had to rethink his switches on BB builds.
ion. Had to rethink his switches on BB builds.
That's the only thing I could think of too, when everything is adjusted in bends, the connection is broken somewhere.
When everything is loose, the external switch works.
Happened to two switches, I could do a bad job once but shouldn't happen twice.
Maybe I should take the last bb as simply as possible by using the original switch, save myself the on and off soldering.
Back on the pulse, new doors & mkro bridge.
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