Wow John, you've been busy. Nice work indeed, I bet you don't want to see anymore sandpaper for quite a while
BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Wow John, you've been busy. Nice work indeed, I bet you don't want to see anymore sandpaper for quite a while
Really loving this new one with an Odin on it at .3
CC if we ever do a contest here for the sexiest mod posted you'll get my vote brother (although I would have loved to see some lumber for contrast on that mod too). Considering I have OCD with the dibie form factor I guess it's not surprising
Simply OUTSTANDING work buddy.
Studio, that's the kind of shop I feel at home in...a reflection of truly a glacial mind
Seeing as everyone is posting hardware lately...here's some pic's of my latest, nothing really noteworthy outside, I just kept it simple as it was really just a platform to test out some ideas.
View attachment 427511View attachment 427512View attachment 427513
The bottom plate has a well drilled in it to hold a spring, which forces the contact up...pretty easy to do if you have a thick enough bottom (and the forethought to drill the hole before you glue the bottom on)...but no more running current through a spring. I added a copper pos. contact for the batt that the switch contact makes contact with, so no more deforming batt. terminals and now I have static contact surfaces for better control...and it's only added about 2mm to the overall height...it also give me a constant batt connection for Ian's indicator (I love those things...10 more please
...I've been metering the batt when the flashes on the indicator change...and it's really consistent and is accurate enough to see voltage sag i.e. if you tap right after a good pull it may flash say 3 times but if you wait a bit and tap, it'll flash 4 as the batt recovers so you also get a good idea of not just batt v but batt health (a new healthy batt shouldn't do that)
5 flashes - 4.2
4 flashes - 4.0
3 flashes - 3.9/3.8
2 flashes - 3.7
1 flash - 3.5
Crap what's goin' on? Is it National Mod making day or somthing??????
WTG Quigs and I see you did the Turbo waterproofing too (and a custom DT). Sweet mod and I have to try your hybrid connector (keep meaning to try it and always forget).
Ok since you basterds are posting eye candy I guess I have to join in too and show you my latest as well.
This is the latest for my better half who as I told you has become an avid squonker (or is it squonkett????). Anyway we found this amazing piece of stabilized dyed wood which she fell in love with. So I gave it the dibie like treatment and this is what I came up with. Needless to say I got well rewarded
This is the latest for my better half who as I told you has become an avid squonker (or is it squonkett????). Anyway we found this amazing piece of stabilized dyed wood which she fell in love with. So I gave it the dibie like treatment and this is what I came up with. Needless to say I got well rewarded
Wow John, you've been busy. Nice work indeed, I bet you don't want to see anymore sandpaper for quite a while
Dead Right.I'm not doing another one of these thats for sure,I don't have the patience and sitting over a bucket full of water for hours surrounded by different grits is bad for my back.
This is the latest for my better half . Needless to say I got well rewarded
I should hope so Steve, that is pretty as hell, girly yes, and so it should be for her highness.
Just high end standard to the max Captain
I'd like some advice on push button switch design, its all about tactile switch actuation force, surface area of buttons, piston and bore materials, friction on slider and slid against materials, wear and corrosion, moisture and expansion of materials, ratio of diameter of piston to length of contacting bore or stroke.
Is any of this making sense to anyone?
Let me put it another way, I want your feedback experience and expertise applied to a problem to give me some ideas for a upcoming design I have in mind.
I have drawn up five or six designs of the switch/button in sketckup, but I'm not 100% happy with any, and before I commit to a design I would really appreciate some advice and ideas that don't come from my tired brain
I have googled my posterior off over this and haven't found anything useful, so I am asking you wise and gifted folks at the pointy end.
Ok here goes:
Say you had a stabilised wood box and you wanted to incorporate a nice pushbutton switch for the fire button, the wood is only 7mm thick and you want a brass button exiting the box around 10mm in diameter, you have the option of 150-250gf tactiles ranging from 1.5mm to 3.2mm high and 3x3mm to 7x7mm footprint. you want the button action to be nice and linear without rocking or binding by having a piston in bore type actuator for the tactile underneath.
The tactile switch under the brass piston needs to be contained by probably at least 1.2-1.5mm of wood at the back to stop the pusher pushing the piston and the tactile into the box cavity.
You also want the machining /milling of parts to be kept to a minimum to control time and cost involved.
So some questions are:
1.Is stabilised wood stable enough to be used as the bore for the piston to run in, or will it swell trapping the piston or rapidly wear causing piston slop and binding?
2. Will the brass corrode with time and juice spillage causing binding and premature wear of the wood bore?
3.Is a brass sleeve inserted into the wood bore a satisfactory solution, or will corrosion again cause a demise of fluid motion.
4. Would a delrin or other engineering plastic sleeve handle the brass piston in a better fashion, or would wear be an issue again.
5. What is a workable ratio of the piston travel/bore/stroke ect to the diameter of the piston to avoid slop/binding, considering well thought out interference tolerances etc.
All ideas and thoughts will be lapped up like a thirsty puppy
Is any of this making sense to anyone?
Let me put it another way, I want your feedback experience and expertise applied to a problem to give me some ideas for a upcoming design I have in mind.
I have drawn up five or six designs of the switch/button in sketckup, but I'm not 100% happy with any, and before I commit to a design I would really appreciate some advice and ideas that don't come from my tired brain
I have googled my posterior off over this and haven't found anything useful, so I am asking you wise and gifted folks at the pointy end.
Ok here goes:
Say you had a stabilised wood box and you wanted to incorporate a nice pushbutton switch for the fire button, the wood is only 7mm thick and you want a brass button exiting the box around 10mm in diameter, you have the option of 150-250gf tactiles ranging from 1.5mm to 3.2mm high and 3x3mm to 7x7mm footprint. you want the button action to be nice and linear without rocking or binding by having a piston in bore type actuator for the tactile underneath.
The tactile switch under the brass piston needs to be contained by probably at least 1.2-1.5mm of wood at the back to stop the pusher pushing the piston and the tactile into the box cavity.
You also want the machining /milling of parts to be kept to a minimum to control time and cost involved.
So some questions are:
1.Is stabilised wood stable enough to be used as the bore for the piston to run in, or will it swell trapping the piston or rapidly wear causing piston slop and binding?
2. Will the brass corrode with time and juice spillage causing binding and premature wear of the wood bore?
3.Is a brass sleeve inserted into the wood bore a satisfactory solution, or will corrosion again cause a demise of fluid motion.
4. Would a delrin or other engineering plastic sleeve handle the brass piston in a better fashion, or would wear be an issue again.
5. What is a workable ratio of the piston travel/bore/stroke ect to the diameter of the piston to avoid slop/binding, considering well thought out interference tolerances etc.
All ideas and thoughts will be lapped up like a thirsty puppy
A stabilized hardwood will certainly stand up to the friction of a piston type switch over time provided everything is machined correctly and travel is truly vertical with just enough clearance. I would think a brass sleeve would also work just as well.
I would say that it's not so much the material but more so the accuracy of the fit. I used to make tool boxes that had drop in trays that have a "hydraulic" effect as they drop in. The trick was the fit which was so true that as the tray dropped in the air escaping caused the tray to kinda lower hydraulically.
I would say that even my first statement is in a way wrong. A correctly machined piston type push button won't have any friction so it doesn't really matter what material it's plunging in. Granted the material it's plunging into must be hard enough to resist change or warping over time but a stabilized hardwood certainly qualifies.
Can you post a drawing of what you plan so I can better visualize what you mean
I would say that it's not so much the material but more so the accuracy of the fit. I used to make tool boxes that had drop in trays that have a "hydraulic" effect as they drop in. The trick was the fit which was so true that as the tray dropped in the air escaping caused the tray to kinda lower hydraulically.
I would say that even my first statement is in a way wrong. A correctly machined piston type push button won't have any friction so it doesn't really matter what material it's plunging in. Granted the material it's plunging into must be hard enough to resist change or warping over time but a stabilized hardwood certainly qualifies.
Can you post a drawing of what you plan so I can better visualize what you mean
Ok since you basterds are posting eye candy I guess I have to join in too and show you my latest as well.
This is the latest for my better half who as I told you has become an avid squonker (or is it squonkett????). Anyway we found this amazing piece of stabilized dyed wood which she fell in love with. So I gave it the dibie like treatment and this is what I came up with. Needless to say I got well rewarded
that's sofa king awesome man!
18490 again?
when's the 18350 coming?
Studio, you have no idea how much thought and experimenting I've invested into that...
piston/bore, good way to put it, I likened it to a hydraulic ram...brass, aluminum, copper rod (piston)...no matter how much you polish, they all get an oxidation layer eventually and sliding up and down in wood, that expands, contracts, swells with juice, etc. is a recipe for frustration...I've tried graphite dry lube, moly's, you name it... unless your deck is metal, it's a virtual certainty you'll get binding...
So far, the best action I've found for good finger feel, smooth, bind free action is use free machining brass (has lead, makes it slidy) 9mm rod and matching tube...if you can possibly do it, try and get the tube (bore) length as close to the diameter of the rod as you can...though I read that your deck is 7mm, which will probably be fine. Nothing is better than having your firing button decide to bind while firing (I cooked a mod because of that once) so when I did my first rod/tube, I pressed the button down at some extreme angles basically trying to bind it, it seems to just work...
As for the oxidization layer...for what ever reason I've yet to have a brass rod/tube seize on me, in fact it gets smoother with use...the constant up/down seems to be like a self cleaning thing?
piston/bore, good way to put it, I likened it to a hydraulic ram...brass, aluminum, copper rod (piston)...no matter how much you polish, they all get an oxidation layer eventually and sliding up and down in wood, that expands, contracts, swells with juice, etc. is a recipe for frustration...I've tried graphite dry lube, moly's, you name it... unless your deck is metal, it's a virtual certainty you'll get binding...
So far, the best action I've found for good finger feel, smooth, bind free action is use free machining brass (has lead, makes it slidy) 9mm rod and matching tube...if you can possibly do it, try and get the tube (bore) length as close to the diameter of the rod as you can...though I read that your deck is 7mm, which will probably be fine. Nothing is better than having your firing button decide to bind while firing (I cooked a mod because of that once) so when I did my first rod/tube, I pressed the button down at some extreme angles basically trying to bind it, it seems to just work...
As for the oxidization layer...for what ever reason I've yet to have a brass rod/tube seize on me, in fact it gets smoother with use...the constant up/down seems to be like a self cleaning thing?
Only reason I made this is because she fell in love with this piece of wood and it's explosion of color. As she vapes around the 1.0 ohm range I can get away with an 18490 but I would never make an 18350 anything.
If there's anything I'm looking forward to that's a serious step forward in battery technology because we're still in the stone age in that department IMHO
If there's anything I'm looking forward to that's a serious step forward in battery technology because we're still in the stone age in that department IMHO
Quigs an "A" type stabilized hardwood (closed cell type of stabilizing) should resist swelling because the resin truly saturates every pore (granted there are variations to "A" type stabilizing) but I think that the positioning of the switch will also play a vital role in how it stands up to time. If it's subjected to constant humidity then yep I see your point, oxidation is pretty much inevitable.
It's not so much the bore size changing, the Dymond wood I like to use is very similar to a stabilized hardwood, it's the phenolic resin itself that just doesn't afford the same "glide" as free machine brass on brass...it's grabby and sticks, you have to fingernail the button to get it to come up, pita...and I played around with tight tolerances (which sucked) and loose tolerances (which sucked even more strangely enough, button wobble allowing it to catch the edge of the bore?)
I wish it wasn't the case because of the extra steps...find the perfect , slightly under size drill bit (I now keep it separate with all my tube material), prep the tube and press it in then finish/de-burr...but it is worth it, the glide you do get in the end just gives you that "quality" feel to the mod...and my mods need all the help they can get
Thanks for your feedback guys, it's 2:45am here so I have to get some sleep, but when I get a chance tomorrow I'll try and post some pics of the switch designs I've been drawing up and considering.
Quigs I have found (and you'll probably relate to this) that when I make a perfectly fitting plunge type push button which sits on a spring, the spring itself plays a vital role as to how true and effortlessly the button moves. I've had much better success with opposing magnets as opposed to springs. Plunge type push buttons will inevitably be subject to some form of interference, be it dust or humidity some regular maintenance will always be required to ensure free flowing movement.
I've come up with a new combo I like, I really like the feel and look of metal and wood. well now I introduced another material to one of my mods and I'm really liking the feel of it paired with the wood and it's something I don't think I've seen much of in mods. I'm talking about leather
how this came about was one of my dna40 installs went bad, I was putting a large screen dna into one of my mods and the chip was working fine, these large screen dna's use a ZIF connector for the screen and the screen was working fine too right up until I glued the chip down, I pressed on the face of the dna chip to hold it down till the glue dried and I apparently pushed too much on the ZIF connector, afterwards the display would only work if I held pressure on the connector.
I played with it tried to make it better but I only made it worse, I then tried to solder the screen ribbon straight to the board but that didn't go as planned so now I had a perfectly functioning dna40, all set to the temp and power level I use, vapes awesome, but with no display... I used it like this for a few days and honestly, once it's all set I really wasn't missing the screen so much so I decided that instead of ripping the chip out and tossing it I'd run the mod like this for a while, only problem is the exposed chip, not going to waste time making a cover for a chip with no display but I wanted something better than just a piece of tape over it so I decided to glue a piece of black leather over the chip as temporary to keep me vaping till I decide to gut it and do another chip
I really like the feel of the leather with the wood, this is a black leather on an ebony wood and now it's giving me all kinds of ideas... one in particular is a metal grand with inserts kinda like captains and genosmate did but with leather instead of wood. also got a few other ideas of how to bring leather into a wood mod in other ways too
how this came about was one of my dna40 installs went bad, I was putting a large screen dna into one of my mods and the chip was working fine, these large screen dna's use a ZIF connector for the screen and the screen was working fine too right up until I glued the chip down, I pressed on the face of the dna chip to hold it down till the glue dried and I apparently pushed too much on the ZIF connector, afterwards the display would only work if I held pressure on the connector.
I played with it tried to make it better but I only made it worse, I then tried to solder the screen ribbon straight to the board but that didn't go as planned so now I had a perfectly functioning dna40, all set to the temp and power level I use, vapes awesome, but with no display... I used it like this for a few days and honestly, once it's all set I really wasn't missing the screen so much so I decided that instead of ripping the chip out and tossing it I'd run the mod like this for a while, only problem is the exposed chip, not going to waste time making a cover for a chip with no display but I wanted something better than just a piece of tape over it so I decided to glue a piece of black leather over the chip as temporary to keep me vaping till I decide to gut it and do another chip
I really like the feel of the leather with the wood, this is a black leather on an ebony wood and now it's giving me all kinds of ideas... one in particular is a metal grand with inserts kinda like captains and genosmate did but with leather instead of wood. also got a few other ideas of how to bring leather into a wood mod in other ways too
brass is used for bushings in machinery in lieu of using a bearing on lower load situations because of it's excellent self lubricating qualities, brass is soft though so ideally you would use a hardened polished shaft inside the brass bushing. brass against brass will gal and eventually bind but a hardened polished shaft in a brass smooth polished bore should last a really long time
delrin is also used as a bushing material because it too has excellent self lubricating properties...
delrin is also used as a bushing material because it too has excellent self lubricating properties...
well this one is ugly, it was a quick fix, I wasn't going for looks I was just trying to protect the chip with something other than tape so I can throw it in my pocket. not saying I like the way this looks but I do like the feel and contrast of texture
nothing much to look at though, my thoughts were when I have the time to rechip it I'll just sand this all off but right now it's usable as I can just press the fire button on the chip through the leather. I wasn't even trying to make it look presentable just slapped it on there
this mods been apart for a while and I lost the original brass cover I had for the chip, I'll have to make a new cover eventually one way or the other whenever I rechip it
nothing much to look at though, my thoughts were when I have the time to rechip it I'll just sand this all off but right now it's usable as I can just press the fire button on the chip through the leather. I wasn't even trying to make it look presentable just slapped it on there
this mods been apart for a while and I lost the original brass cover I had for the chip, I'll have to make a new cover eventually one way or the other whenever I rechip it
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