Hmmm...you know, I just went with the brass/brass because they fit together off the rack, but now with a lathe...I've been looking for a reason to get some SS round stock...SS is a lot easier to machine than brass
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Hmmm...you know, I just went with the brass/brass because they fit together off the rack, but now with a lathe...I've been looking for a reason to get some SS round stock...SS is a lot easier to machine than brass
I'm using 1/2" SS rod for my buttons. Facing and turning are a breeze. Parting, on the other hand, takes a minute........... Not too bad though.
well this one is ugly, it was a quick fix, I wasn't going for looks I was just trying to protect the chip with something other than tape so I can throw it in my pocket. not saying I like the way this looks but I do like the feel and contrast of texture
nothing much to look at though, my thoughts were when I have the time to rechip it I'll just sand this all off but right now it's usable as I can just press the fire button on the chip through the leather. I wasn't even trying to make it look presentable just slapped it on there
this mods been apart for a while and I lost the original brass cover I had for the chip, I'll have to make a new cover eventually one way or the other whenever I rechip it
I can see the potential there.
Not a big fan of parting (bad experience parting a chunk of copper pipe...didn't go too well 
)...I find I still take it down old school and hacksaw it then turn to clean up
)...I find I still take it down old school and hacksaw it then turn to clean up
ha, yeah I've twisted up my own fair share of stuff while parting on the lathe too I usually cut SS off the lathe too. I have a cold saw that cuts SS awesome but recently I broke the vice on the coldsaw
I usually cut SS off the lathe too. I have a cold saw that cuts SS awesome but recently I broke the vice on the coldsaw
So I've been working on something for a bit now, I typically don't post in production mods because they tend to look like a dogs breakfast until the chips stop flying...plus I had to let my latest anti-DNA rant cool off a bit to avoid looking like a complete hypocrite
...but on this one I wanted some input before I get too deep into it...
Reo Rob was good enough to sell me one of his Resin Woodvils blanks (resin woodvil?)...this is the one pictured on his kick-off post...
I was thinking about making another mech but thought, nah, if anything deserved the iridescent blue glow of a DNA, this is it. As I've always been a big fan of Turbo's DNA woodys (especially the one with the brass cowl) I thought I'd do something like that...and another nod to Turbo, a long time ago he posted a DNA test bed he'd built (I reserved comment on why anyone should "need" to build such a thing but moving forward) but I thought what a great way to:
1. afford easyish install of my future RMA'd board
2. afford my preference of solid over stranded
3. avoid any chance (or as much as possible) of juice entry
4. cause I haven't seen this done before so ya, breakin' ground
so here's where I'm at so far, just layin' out the basics
the switch is a vandal proof off FD that I cut the end off and epoxied a tact on the back (thanks CC)...diggin' this switch, nice and clicky but solid, plus I sunk it a bit cause it felt good from a finger perspective (as much as I hate side switches
)
Using a FD V3, I know you guys get leaking on these but I swap out the o ring and use these silicon thingys I got for my RSST's they work awesome...add to that I'm too lazy to adjust the FD insert/vented screw thing, meh, to each his own I guess
If you can see, I've slotted the body and I've became a jeweler and hand crafted each conductor path and laid it in and epoxied.
...but on this one I wanted some input before I get too deep into it...
Reo Rob was good enough to sell me one of his Resin Woodvils blanks (resin woodvil?)...this is the one pictured on his kick-off post...
I was thinking about making another mech but thought, nah, if anything deserved the iridescent blue glow of a DNA, this is it. As I've always been a big fan of Turbo's DNA woodys (especially the one with the brass cowl) I thought I'd do something like that...and another nod to Turbo, a long time ago he posted a DNA test bed he'd built (I reserved comment on why anyone should "need" to build such a thing but moving forward) but I thought what a great way to:
1. afford easyish install of my future RMA'd board
2. afford my preference of solid over stranded
3. avoid any chance (or as much as possible) of juice entry
4. cause I haven't seen this done before so ya, breakin' ground
so here's where I'm at so far, just layin' out the basics
the switch is a vandal proof off FD that I cut the end off and epoxied a tact on the back (thanks CC)...diggin' this switch, nice and clicky but solid, plus I sunk it a bit cause it felt good from a finger perspective (as much as I hate side switches
)Using a FD V3, I know you guys get leaking on these but I swap out the o ring and use these silicon thingys I got for my RSST's they work awesome...add to that I'm too lazy to adjust the FD insert/vented screw thing, meh, to each his own I guess
If you can see, I've slotted the body and I've became a jeweler and hand crafted each conductor path and laid it in and epoxied.
And for the Turbo idea I most like is...
I've carved out the side of the resin woody, layed the DNA 40 in there and used it as a guide to drill the wire holes...the wire I'm using is 18 awg sterling silver (I know 18 is the min. but come on, solid silver?)
I've made a lexan cover that has been ground and polished and attached with SS machine screws to cover (it's on my workbench atm)
so please...jump in, throw me some comments/ideas/criticisms...I'm still pondering using the on-board up/downs with clear buttons through the lexan cover unless you all have an idea I haven't thought of...
I've carved out the side of the resin woody, layed the DNA 40 in there and used it as a guide to drill the wire holes...the wire I'm using is 18 awg sterling silver (I know 18 is the min. but come on, solid silver?)
I've made a lexan cover that has been ground and polished and attached with SS machine screws to cover (it's on my workbench atm)
so please...jump in, throw me some comments/ideas/criticisms...I'm still pondering using the on-board up/downs with clear buttons through the lexan cover unless you all have an idea I haven't thought of...
Here are a few screen grabs from sketchup,please excuse my lack of experience with the program, still learning it's many unintuitive ways the materials are not so much the point of the drawings, but the poston/bore ratio and the use of available space. I have gone with an extended bush/bore on these top two to maximise bore to piston diameter ratio without increasing the thickness of the stabilised wood wall. the 3mm or so under the bush is for a CK tactile with 160-240gf.
the grey image is a more recent Idea to have the piston lot right over the tactile to again improve piston dia to bore ratio. I keep thinking I must be missing something elegantly simple as a solution.
I wanted to keep the button looking brass in appearance, although I have just though of torching the piston to achieve a golden colour if I had to go with a brass/SS combination, still churning ideas over so thanks in advance for any more insights.
[/URL]Button design by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]
the grey image is a more recent Idea to have the piston lot right over the tactile to again improve piston dia to bore ratio. I keep thinking I must be missing something elegantly simple as a solution.
I wanted to keep the button looking brass in appearance, although I have just though of torching the piston to achieve a golden colour if I had to go with a brass/SS combination, still churning ideas over so thanks in advance for any more insights.
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Studio, I've been kicking around going on Digikey and buying a bunch of weird, random tact switches...leaning toward the wafer type for just such a switch. Before having the lathe it was just a bit of a pipe dream but now...I have some similar SU drawings where there is a tact set in to a rod/tube assembly for use in my FET mods (which I plan on building more of)
One thing I notice, nice SU work btw...what's your plan for piston (rod) retention so it doesn't slide out of the tube? I've played around with rice pins, gluing the piston to the tact (kinda hokey)...
One thing I notice, nice SU work btw...what's your plan for piston (rod) retention so it doesn't slide out of the tube? I've played around with rice pins, gluing the piston to the tact (kinda hokey)...
I Quigs,Thanks, Ive been considering the same thing, buying a bunch of different low and ultra low profile tactiles, I was ideally looking for a waterproof large footprint (6x6mm) one with around 0.3-0.5mm travel with around 180-240gf and not too clicky and over 300.000 actuation lifespan, no joy on that, but I think i will do as you have said and buy a bunch of randoms to test out.
As for retention, I have been considering (particularly visible in the second pic down) drilling the shaft of the piston and drifting in a neo magnet and having a larger dia one clip onto that for the retainer (magnets can be ground to .5mm and heat treated to reduce pull as I'm sure you know, most tactiles do not have a lot of steel or magnetic material so lock on should not be an issue), allowing removal of the button with a very powerful magnet from the out side for cleaning and servicing and possibly ease of assembly, other wise like you say gluing,at worst case gluing a on a small disc but like you say"hokey". creating a step on the piston is one option, but increases the number if precision machining points.
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You may consider graphite filled teflon - for valve seats where i work, a lot of customers go with something like that, because of the lubrication the graphite provides. It's also fairly easy enough to acquire and not bitterly expensive.
Teflon eventually creeps, but i doubt that would be a real problem here.
T
Teflon eventually creeps, but i doubt that would be a real problem here.
T
So I've been working on something for a bit now, I typically don't post in production mods because they tend to look like a dogs breakfast until the chips stop flying...plus I had to let my latest anti-DNA rant cool off a bit to avoid looking like a complete hypocrite
...but on this one I wanted some input before I get too deep into it...
Reo Rob was good enough to sell me one of his Resin Woodvils blanks (resin woodvil?)...this is the one pictured on his kick-off post...
I was thinking about making another mech but thought, nah, if anything deserved the iridescent blue glow of a DNA, this is it. As I've always been a big fan of Turbo's DNA woodys (especially the one with the brass cowl) I thought I'd do something like that...and another nod to Turbo, a long time ago he posted a DNA test bed he'd built (I reserved comment on why anyone should "need" to build such a thing but moving forward) but I thought what a great way to:
1. afford easyish install of my future RMA'd board
2. afford my preference of solid over stranded
3. avoid any chance (or as much as possible) of juice entry
4. cause I haven't seen this done before so ya, breakin' ground
View attachment 427762
so here's where I'm at so far, just layin' out the basics
View attachment 427764View attachment 427765
the switch is a vandal proof off FD that I cut the end off and epoxied a tact on the back (thanks CC)...diggin' this switch, nice and clicky but solid, plus I sunk it a bit cause it felt good from a finger perspective (as much as I hate side switches
View attachment 427766
Using a FD V3, I know you guys get leaking on these but I swap out the o ring and use these silicon thingys I got for my RSST's they work awesome...add to that I'm too lazy to adjust the FD insert/vented screw thing, meh, to each his own I guess
View attachment 427767
If you can see, I've slotted the body and I've became a jeweler and hand crafted each conductor path and laid it in and epoxied.
That looks awesome, Quigs!
Can't wait to see it polished to crystal clear, with that blue dna glow.
You gonna incorporate some Ice Resin for the screen and general waterproofing?
wow, a clear resin body I'd want to machine the whole chip opening from the inside, leaving the chip visible through the mod from the outside.
not saying I could do that, just that I'd want too
are you doing a brass cap on that? oops nevermind I see you did a clear cap cant wait to see that
not saying I could do that, just that I'd want too
are you doing a brass cap on that? oops nevermind I see you did a clear cap cant wait to see that
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No plans to use any Ice Resin (at least for now)...the cover lightly presses the screen into the pocket and the soldered pins hold the chip, I just have to be careful to not linger too long on the pins with the iron.
I pondered over going in from the inside or outside...part of the decision to go outside was based a practice cover I made from disc sanding then hand sanding then buffing a profile out of a piece of Lexan to see what type of finish I could expect...turns out the results where better than the clarity of the resin body itself
Another reason is, if I went from the inside I wouldn't get the "drop in module" thing happening, tbh, I'm on the edge of whether I continue to build with DNA's, I recognize they're popular with some ardent fans out there, but I'm at 5-6 DNA chip purchases now, using the words "consistent" and "DNA##" together in the same sentence is an oxymoron...I spent some serious time milling the pocket out and getting the pin alignment right so I don't have to hope the chip doesn't fail, It's built with the expectation that it will...take off the cover, hit the pins with an iron and a solder sucker, lift it out, go through the RMA process, drop a new one in, done
If I do however get a good one and it proves itself like the 30 in my Zebra Woody, I could flood it from the back with Ice Resin, seal the cover permanent and take it into the shower with me...until then, the fact that the chip is batt side should keep it reasonably safe from a juice attack.
I pondered over going in from the inside or outside...part of the decision to go outside was based a practice cover I made from disc sanding then hand sanding then buffing a profile out of a piece of Lexan to see what type of finish I could expect...turns out the results where better than the clarity of the resin body itself
Another reason is, if I went from the inside I wouldn't get the "drop in module" thing happening, tbh, I'm on the edge of whether I continue to build with DNA's, I recognize they're popular with some ardent fans out there, but I'm at 5-6 DNA chip purchases now, using the words "consistent" and "DNA##" together in the same sentence is an oxymoron...I spent some serious time milling the pocket out and getting the pin alignment right so I don't have to hope the chip doesn't fail, It's built with the expectation that it will...take off the cover, hit the pins with an iron and a solder sucker, lift it out, go through the RMA process, drop a new one in, done
If I do however get a good one and it proves itself like the 30 in my Zebra Woody, I could flood it from the back with Ice Resin, seal the cover permanent and take it into the shower with me
...until then, the fact that the chip is batt side should keep it reasonably safe from a juice attack.The Yihi SX350 mini chips seem to have a good reputation, plus 60W capable, and bypass mode to 85W like a mech (if your battery will take it). Plus 4 little screw holes for mounting.
YiHi SX350 & DIY Parts
YiHi SX350 & DIY Parts
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Ya, I haven't seen anywhere near the blow back on the SX chips as the DNA's though that may have something to do with the numbers of each out there or the on-board display of the sx's being more robust?...but the sx's are pricey eh?.
Reality is, I'll always be a straight batt kind of guy (I say that because I'm also digging the FETs) but I join these DNA coops with the best intentions and when they finally arrive they sit in their little boxes until I feel like a change...or something like the resin mod comes along that just begs for a little extra bling...don't get me wrong, when the DNA's work, they work pretty good but when I read Turbo's main appreciation of the clicky switch (and maybe the batt indicator?)...I totally got that.
Which is why a tact switched FET with the II (Ian Indicator) is a straight batt mod game changer for me...and will probably spell the end of any future reg. purchases for me.
Then Studio or Rolf comes along with a new mech switch design and I start getting the bug...I sometimes think an e cig box is just a sandbox for me to build gizmos for
Since I'm in the same un-regulated boat as you Quigs I fully understand how you feel. But you said it in your last sentence, it's all about making stuff and getting the satisfaction that you made that thing you're vaping. At least for me personally it's not primarily about improving my vape, it's more about making something just the way I like it.
Of course you can get just so much of what you like until you get bored and feel the need to try something else too.
Every time I made a DNA mod I probably swore I'll never do one again, but I will. In fact I'll probably try other boards as well at some point.
Of course you can get just so much of what you like until you get bored and feel the need to try something else too.
Every time I made a DNA mod I probably swore I'll never do one again, but I will. In fact I'll probably try other boards as well at some point.
BTW on the subject of resin here is a burl/resin blank I milled and it's looking quite interesting so I'll probably make a mod out of it
Ya, I haven't seen anywhere near the blow back on the SX chips as the DNA's though that may have something to do with the numbers of each out there or the on-board display of the sx's being more robust?...but the sx's are pricey eh?.
Reality is, I'll always be a straight batt kind of guy (I say that because I'm also digging the FETs) but I join these DNA coops with the best intentions and when they finally arrive they sit in their little boxes until I feel like a change...or something like the resin mod comes along that just begs for a little extra bling...don't get me wrong, when the DNA's work, they work pretty good but when I read Turbo's main appreciation of the clicky switch (and maybe the batt indicator?)...I totally got that.
Which is why a tact switched FET with the II (Ian Indicator) is a straight batt mod game changer for me...and will probably spell the end of any future reg. purchases for me.
Then Studio or Rolf comes along with a new mech switch design and I start getting the bug...I sometimes think an e cig box is just a sandbox for me to build gizmos for
hi guys...
I can attest to sx350 s of being nice have two mods with them and and performance wise and also lasting wise just nice .
also had my share of dna problems . I am buildind a new mod with a rescued dna 20 . 26650 batt sqonker of coarse .
this time with casted resin parts for dna tray and the top with a magnetic switch seemly to actuate a tact switch .
one 10 mm magnet fits nice in a bullet casing ,,will solder a little brass shim to it for the stop. got some ring magnets coming for the opposing magnet to let the puchrod go throw the center to actuater the switch .
developing the plugs mainly with balsa wood ..easy to shape and make a mold with silicone .
the tact switches I like are on ebay they where advertised as high quality I think if I remember right the
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call them high relyably now .very thin and never had a problem w them ..ps I am a regulated mod guy !!
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