BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made
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Hey, squonkers, which size silicone tubing works best for use with the "Gdeal" setup, that is, with a #6-32 vented screw? I wish to upgrade all my boxes from PVC tube. There are eBay sellers that sell silicone tubing by the foot, but I want the optimum size. Thanks in advance! {almost done with my latest squonker, too} 
I asked the same thing a while ago and was put on to this by CC
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=57288
I ended getting the same size/type off Amazon but it's on Ebay (everywhere really)
It will go on a #6-32 and seals fine
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=57288
I ended getting the same size/type off Amazon but it's on Ebay (everywhere really)
It will go on a #6-32 and seals fine
Thanks, Quigs! -Found it on Amazon with inexpensive shipping. US Plastics shipping is outrageous.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGDK/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGDK/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Absolutely gorgeous, @studiovap. 
Looks like you got the height down to ~75 mm. What are the complete finished dimensions?
Looks like you got the height down to ~75 mm. What are the complete finished dimensions?
Thanks TWP, digital caliper says 72.99mm HighAbsolutely gorgeous, @studiovap.
Thanks TWP, digital caliper says 72.99mm High
Wow! Not including the 510? What are the other dimensions?
Love the bronze. Switch is brass, right?
I could have gone a little less maybe 71mm, but the 510 connector the BF pin and the bottle all need the extra 1.99mm, I already shaved the FD V4 as much as i dared, installed a modified insulator Tygon hose spring and custom SS BF pin all to save space in this area, the battery height wasn't the restricting factor (with the recessed spring setup) assuming i wanted to use the vapage 9ml bottle which I do on every thing.
Yes the 510 adds another 1mm, width is 51.09mm depth 26.5mm and as stated height is 72.99mm.
And yes switch is brass machined from scratch.
Almost head-scratching finished size, particularly with a side switch and MOSFET. So much to admire there. I simply must get the lathe I've been holding off on, if only for switches and atomizer work.
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Nice Studio, can you take a pic with the batt out of the way...I'm trying to see how you did your switch.
Also, I'm assuming you're completing the neg side by snagging one of top deck your anchor screws? (another good idea btw)
There's a LOT of great ideas there I'll be ripping off...but I think you've used 1-2 of mine so deal with it 
Also, I'm assuming you're completing the neg side by snagging one of top deck your anchor screws? (another good idea btw)
There's a LOT of great ideas there I'll be ripping off
...but I think you've used 1-2 of mine so deal with it
Nice Studio, can you take a pic with the batt out of the way...I'm trying to see how you did your switch.
Also, I'm assuming you're completing the neg side by snagging one of top deck your anchor screws? (another good idea btw)
There's a LOT of great ideas there I'll be ripping off
I drilled an extra hole in the top plate for a 1.4mm brass rod, soldered it in and ran it down a channel in the wood side section soldered it to the tactile through the switch hole with the wooden blanking piece superglued into the back of the tactile, soldered the other terminal , ran superglue round the blanking piece, inserted and shimmed button and super glued in collar with button into wood side, super glue allows removal without damage if I need to get back in there, but is more than strong enough for the jog in the meantime (if that makes any sense at all LOL)
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didn't take that photo because I am yet to decide if I epoxy in that lead wire from the mosfet to the switch, I like to run the first few days with the flexibility to dismantle if I come across any teething issues.
Now that I see the pic, make's perfect sense...nice planning
...last question (promise)...your neg batt tab, did you slip a piece of spring under it?...I did something similar with a piece of trillium copper and of course, once I put the heat to it to solder I forgot to quench and I lost the spring...I see you dug it out and recessed the tab so you probably could slip in a spring if you had to.
...last question (promise)...your neg batt tab, did you slip a piece of spring under it?...I did something similar with a piece of trillium copper and of course, once I put the heat to it to solder I forgot to quench and I lost the spring...I see you dug it out and recessed the tab so you probably could slip in a spring if you had to.
Thanks quigs, the neg Spring,It's made from beryllium copper sheet and is still nice and springy after soldering, same a the small pos spring.
I've been busy making a couple of 18650 squonkers,one from stabilised maple (as a gift for someone) and one from leadwood with a recessed RM2.
Thanks to @CaptSteve for letting me use his ideas for the internals on the maple one and helping me out with the CA glue finish and @RiverNut who showed me how to do the leadwood one.
Thanks to @CaptSteve for letting me use his ideas for the internals on the maple one and helping me out with the CA glue finish and @RiverNut who showed me how to do the leadwood one.
For any verified and interested members who might be wanting/needing purpose built BF bottles, check out Rossums post in the co-op planning forum
My wife is out of town and I only had 1 service call and misc. errands today so it was time to play. I have had several ideas lately and they are converging on a small round hybrid 18650 squonker. I almost exclusively use modified triangle atty's (AKA RM2) so why not make a hybrid. I have been molding and welding LDPE into custom bottles so how to make use of space? I have also been thinking about how to lower voltage drop to a minimum by using a coaxial style connection. I also have a 3D printer that has been lonely with my hectic electrical business. I got a good bit done toward incorporating all this together but still have a ways to go, so work in progress.
Due to the style of battery connection I wanted to make it worked out better to abandon the traditional 510 center pin as the liquid transport. I took a triangle I had previous modded into a RM2 and drilled a hole in it in the bottom corner inline with one of the 2 existing threaded holes in the bottom that the original negative posts thread into and down at an angle so it would come out the side toward the bottom. Inserted a brass tube into that hole and using lead free solder soldered it into place where it just barely extended into the inside. Some are gasping at the brass, but I will pickle everything before using to remove the surface lead. I tested my pickling process before with an EPA lead test kit and it works. Brewers do it all the time and if you are interested just google "brewer brass pickling". BTW, the triangle is all plated brass anyway even modding it into an RM2 exposes brass.
Took a piece of wire and inserted into the tube so it wouldn't kink and bent it down. This will be the liquid path and puts it inline with the hole in the ceramic that will not have a negative pin.
Chipped the ceramic with a pair of small needle nose pliers beside the hole the liquid will travel to the top of the deck which is inline with the brass tube. Took a silver relay contact and using the old hand drill as a lathe cut the base down to the same diameter as a spare triangle positive post and soldered them together. (which was a royal PITA) Filed the solder down flush to make a hybrid center pin (positive posts have the same size and thread as the 510 center post) longer than original and with a silver relay contact at the end.
Used some silicone tubing for the 510 center pin insulator which was very tight after inserting the center pin to seal against leakage and assembled then cut off the brass tubing to length. Took a threaded ring from a 510 to 510 adapter and will use that as the nut to hold the hybrid atty in place.
I had previously made this bottle which is hollow and holds about 13 ml full so is usable for 11 or 12 ml. It squonks just fine either by pushing on one spot or 2 spots 180 degrees apart.
It slips right over an 18650 battery
Now for the coaxial style battery connection, like one of those slip on TV "F" coax connectors which is what gave me the idea. (This is why the wrap is cut at the top of the battery)
I plan on using a double sided circuit board and etching it, but I couldn't find any in my stash and my enchant and resist pen are 20 years old so no good. A trip to Radio Shack let me know that they don't carry doggy dodo for us DIY'ers anymore. They used to carry a kit with a small board, enchant, and a resist pen but the very small section of DIY stuff dwindles every time I go to a Radio Shack and they drove all the rest of the local electronics suppliers out of business a long time ago when they bought out Tandy. Oh to walk into Reed Radio would be awesome but the building isn't even there anymore. Anywho, I found a piece of perfboard in my stash to use as a template for proof of concept and to get measurements for the real circuit board. I took 4 Keystone battery contacts out of a sled and bent them to my liking. BTW, they only bend once and trying to bend back will cause a snap. I could only attach 2 since I only had 2 sets of small enough hardware with enough zero's to fit the painfully enlarged holes in the Keystone contacts. I used a small round file for this job as I had previous found it futile to try and drill them. They are so hard anything below a 45 or so drill bit will snap when it catches. In the final version I will solder them to the circuit board so no hardware will be required. There will be 3 or 4 of them to center and cradle the battery on the outside for the negative contact, but you can get the idea from the picture with 2. They will be electrically isolated from the 510 base.
A small spring will push up on the battery from the bottom maintining contact with the 510 center pin. It will not have to carry any current so any spring will work. I haven't decided whether to use a "mechanical" switch consisting of silver relay contacts or a Mosfet and a Mitec switch yet. The 3D printed case will be fairly simple to CAD and print as it is mostly simple circular geometry. Also have to figure out a simple way to fill the bottle. I filled it with a syringe and that was a pain. I am thinking along the lines of one of my RC quick fuel fittings but smaller. Here's one that is really simple but too large.
When in flight mode it connects the fuel tank fuel line to the carb and the fuel tank vent to a pressure line from the muffler. Twist 45 degrees for filling mode and it shuts off the line to the carb, connects the filler nipple to the tank fuel line, shuts off the pressure line (which obviously wouldn't be needed), and connects the fuel tank vent to the small vent hole you can see by the nipple. Does all this with just the 2 body pieces, some cross drilled holes, and 4 o-rings. Super simple and elegant, just needs to be about 1/4 the size.
For a size comparison here is the mock up internals with my 'Lil 'Pinch.
Well that's all the time I have today, will post more as I progress.
Hope I didn't bore you all.
Due to the style of battery connection I wanted to make it worked out better to abandon the traditional 510 center pin as the liquid transport. I took a triangle I had previous modded into a RM2 and drilled a hole in it in the bottom corner inline with one of the 2 existing threaded holes in the bottom that the original negative posts thread into and down at an angle so it would come out the side toward the bottom. Inserted a brass tube into that hole and using lead free solder soldered it into place where it just barely extended into the inside. Some are gasping at the brass, but I will pickle everything before using to remove the surface lead. I tested my pickling process before with an EPA lead test kit and it works. Brewers do it all the time and if you are interested just google "brewer brass pickling". BTW, the triangle is all plated brass anyway even modding it into an RM2 exposes brass.
Took a piece of wire and inserted into the tube so it wouldn't kink and bent it down. This will be the liquid path and puts it inline with the hole in the ceramic that will not have a negative pin.
Chipped the ceramic with a pair of small needle nose pliers beside the hole the liquid will travel to the top of the deck which is inline with the brass tube. Took a silver relay contact and using the old hand drill as a lathe cut the base down to the same diameter as a spare triangle positive post and soldered them together. (which was a royal PITA) Filed the solder down flush to make a hybrid center pin (positive posts have the same size and thread as the 510 center post) longer than original and with a silver relay contact at the end.
Used some silicone tubing for the 510 center pin insulator which was very tight after inserting the center pin to seal against leakage and assembled then cut off the brass tubing to length. Took a threaded ring from a 510 to 510 adapter and will use that as the nut to hold the hybrid atty in place.
I had previously made this bottle which is hollow and holds about 13 ml full so is usable for 11 or 12 ml. It squonks just fine either by pushing on one spot or 2 spots 180 degrees apart.
It slips right over an 18650 battery
Now for the coaxial style battery connection, like one of those slip on TV "F" coax connectors which is what gave me the idea. (This is why the wrap is cut at the top of the battery)
I plan on using a double sided circuit board and etching it, but I couldn't find any in my stash and my enchant and resist pen are 20 years old so no good. A trip to Radio Shack let me know that they don't carry doggy dodo for us DIY'ers anymore. They used to carry a kit with a small board, enchant, and a resist pen but the very small section of DIY stuff dwindles every time I go to a Radio Shack and they drove all the rest of the local electronics suppliers out of business a long time ago when they bought out Tandy. Oh to walk into Reed Radio would be awesome but the building isn't even there anymore. Anywho, I found a piece of perfboard in my stash to use as a template for proof of concept and to get measurements for the real circuit board. I took 4 Keystone battery contacts out of a sled and bent them to my liking. BTW, they only bend once and trying to bend back will cause a snap. I could only attach 2 since I only had 2 sets of small enough hardware with enough zero's to fit the painfully enlarged holes in the Keystone contacts. I used a small round file for this job as I had previous found it futile to try and drill them. They are so hard anything below a 45 or so drill bit will snap when it catches. In the final version I will solder them to the circuit board so no hardware will be required. There will be 3 or 4 of them to center and cradle the battery on the outside for the negative contact, but you can get the idea from the picture with 2. They will be electrically isolated from the 510 base.
A small spring will push up on the battery from the bottom maintining contact with the 510 center pin. It will not have to carry any current so any spring will work. I haven't decided whether to use a "mechanical" switch consisting of silver relay contacts or a Mosfet and a Mitec switch yet. The 3D printed case will be fairly simple to CAD and print as it is mostly simple circular geometry. Also have to figure out a simple way to fill the bottle. I filled it with a syringe and that was a pain. I am thinking along the lines of one of my RC quick fuel fittings but smaller. Here's one that is really simple but too large.
When in flight mode it connects the fuel tank fuel line to the carb and the fuel tank vent to a pressure line from the muffler. Twist 45 degrees for filling mode and it shuts off the line to the carb, connects the filler nipple to the tank fuel line, shuts off the pressure line (which obviously wouldn't be needed), and connects the fuel tank vent to the small vent hole you can see by the nipple. Does all this with just the 2 body pieces, some cross drilled holes, and 4 o-rings. Super simple and elegant, just needs to be about 1/4 the size.
For a size comparison here is the mock up internals with my 'Lil 'Pinch.
Well that's all the time I have today, will post more as I progress.
Hope I didn't bore you all.
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