BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Tagi

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i just used a butane torch to get the solder to melt and when i intalled the fdv v5 it of course leaked...bummer.so now gonna try the varitube with the dbl nut fully threaded 510 screw and see if using a ring terminal on the + wire and two nuts on the pin to make the pos connection work.../.?

I have 4 of these new varitube ones on its way to try out due to the same thing. FDV v4 and v5 leak.

I will be setting it up the say way.
 

rudedog

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So is there anywhere I can order a dna 200 pre wired? Soldering is going to be a big problem for me.


i took mine to my local computer store and i know the guy from when he owned radio shack,16$ is what he charged me to do one.way cheaper then me screwin up a board with too much heat.imho anyways
 

rudedog

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Yes, ETs suck. My whole life, I've been asked, "are you nervous" "why are you shaking", then I can't tell you how thrilling it was when my military squad decided to start calling me shake and bake....

Any who, yeah, I had a mech squonker, loved it, but it finally broke on me when i dropped it. So, I went to subohm tanks for a while, but i miss my flavor from squonking, so I am back and decided, I do like my regulated rx200, but want something smaller for travel purposes. So I was thinking a DNA75 squonker. Or maybe even copy subohmies steamcrave mod for the DNA 200. But, soldering just isn't for those of us with ETs.

i did one of the steam crave conversions for my first build man and it was really an easy thing to do.i still havent got magnets to hold the door on but the rubberband is still working great!the 2nd pic the other box is a fdv squonker and while wide as all get out it does fit the 1500 mah lipo in there.now if i can get the dang 510 to not leak.im donr with fdv versions of anything in a 510 bf model!!grrr!
 

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BobC

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The neck is thin enough that I wouldn't want to compromise it by thinning it further. I could heat it and expand it if I wanted but it really isn't that difficult to get on or off after it has been used for a while.

Put in that order for a dozen additional bottles. Don't need them or the ones I already have for anything right now but what can I say.....I'm a DIY hoarder.

Use awl or pair of scissors to aid in widening the the neck, quickly after running the bottle neck under hot water for a minute
 

dethnode

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I'm looking for cheap regulated bottom feeders to do the switch to dna 200 like rude dog here. Is the steam crave the better option?
Subohmies did a steam crave conversion to the dna 200 and he also did a releaux conversion to a DNA 200.

Using the releaux, he removes the third battery and puts squonk bottle there, i think the DNA 200 is limited to 122 watts in this configuration though.

It's in this thread somewhere, but from my understanding, the steam crave is much easier to convert and you get the full 200 watts so...
 

Aal_

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Thanks I did see the Reuleaux. Eddie did one as well. It's probably harder than an already squonker, since you need to change the 510 and cut the squonk hole. A steam crave it is then.

I have a dna 200 untouched yet that I got from mike's coop and I'm still hoping for some free time. However it seems work and family is taking most of my time so I'm looking for the easiest conversion. I will take a look at the steam crave. Thanks again.
 
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EddieAdams

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Thanks I did see the Reuleaux. Eddie did one as well. It's probably harder than an already squonker, since you need to change the 510 and cut the squonk hole. A steam crave it is then.

I have a dna 200 untouched yet that I got from mike's coop and I'm still hoping for some free time. However it seems work and family is taking most of my time so I'm looking for the easiest conversion. I will take a look at the steam crave. Thanks again.
Honestly the hardest thing for me was getting a proper diagram for wiring the dna 200 for two batteries which sub-ohmies helped me with. Has to be dna 200. And then of course soldering which I eventually became decent at. $150 total roughly.

I love the thing. Works perfect aside from the fdv v5 leaking. Charges great. TC works very well. 6000mAh, 133w, just isn't travel friendly but, I don't think any mod bigger than a REO is travel friendly.

FDA BOC
 
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Tagi

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Current project, love the vape from my CAM-M, but it needs regular polishing. These two cnc b boxes are going to become dually mosfet squonkers using the new Drunk J Varitube bf 510s. They dont leak like the fat daddy bf 510s and are still spring loaded. Tested it out in my rough Okl t20 squonker and it stayed bone dry inside.

Okl T20 squonker
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Not sure about the cover... it fits snugly so I could leave it as a removable cover. Or cut it for bottle access and epoxy it in.

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Tagi

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Got the green one all wired up. Vapes nice. The cover things were not cooperating with me. I dont think I will use them.

Squonk hole is not perfect. I have only a dewalt drill, dremel, and metal files at hand. Any tips are welcolm. Wire is 16 gauge. Trying to fit it all in there and solder it together took some fiddling.

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Aal_

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Got the green one all wired up. Vapes nice. The cover things were not cooperating with me. I dont think I will use them.

Squonk hole is not perfect. I have only a dewalt drill, dremel, and metal files at hand. Any tips are welcolm. Wire is 16 gauge. Trying to fit it all in there and solder it together took some fiddling.

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The inside looks really neat man. Congrats.
 

turbocad6

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making a nice squonk hole is all about patience, trace out a perfect squonk hole, then drill and cut well INSIDE of this line without touching the line or getting too close, then SLOWLY, without touching or going past the line, cut closer to the line, then switch to file and file out to the line, then when you get real close final finish right to the line with sand paper. with enough patience a damn near perfect hole can be done with the tools you have but it ain't gonna take only 5 minutes to do
 

Aal_

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making a nice squonk hole is all about patience, trace out a perfect squonk hole, then drill and cut well INSIDE of this line without touching the line or getting too close, then SLOWLY, without touching or going past the line, cut closer to the line, then switch to file and file out to the line, then when you get real close final finish right to the line with sand paper. with enough patience a damn near perfect hole can be done with the tools you have but it ain't gonna take only 5 minutes to do
good info, always wanted to know the right technique
 
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muzichead

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