BOTTOM FEEDERS= a place for everything modified and/or custom made

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Quigsworth

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Slotting the pin can be a great alternative to boring it, and in some cases, the only way to bf certain rda's, nice work Trucker. But one thing about slotting that impedes squonk performance is if you think about it, the slots don't exactly line up with the female center pin bore and I've had some hard squonkin' slotted rda's...if you have an issue (and ya, it means pulling the pin again :facepalm:) ...with the dremmel, either connect the slots by making a slot across the bottom of the pin or dig them deep at the end of the pin so they are cut closer to the center of the pin...you don't need or want to go crazy cause you can cut down on conductivity by removing too much metal but your juice will flow much better...but again, only if you have an issue
 

vapero

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Slotting the pin can be a great alternative to boring it, and in some cases, the only way to bf certain rda's, nice work Trucker. But one thing about slotting that impedes squonk performance is if you think about it, the slots don't exactly line up with the female center pin bore and I've had some hard squonkin' slotted rda's...if you have an issue (and ya, it means pulling the pin again :facepalm:) ...with the dremmel, either connect the slots by making a slot across the bottom of the pin or dig them deep at the end of the pin so they are cut closer to the center of the pin...you don't need or want to go crazy cause you can cut down on conductivity by removing too much metal but your juice will flow much better...but again, only if you have an issue
I've slotted a few and fortunately all had a flat scew head positive post so there is a connection between slots

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
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ThreeDJ16

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laurie9300

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So I finally got in my mill column last week for my Sherline 17" lathe. Got full CNC nearly ready to go, just need to get off my .... and get the stepper drivers installed. So right now still using manual. Also got X and Y DROs ready to install to assist for better use in manual. So much stuff to play with and not nearly enough free time to play...argh.



Speaking of play time. One of my first projects is going to be copper end caps (natural patina) for my new Gdibi along with matched wood button and drip tip. Absolutely love doing this stuff. Maybe one day I will be good enough to make something remotely close to those beauties Custom Classic made or that gorgeous metal/wood combo CptSteve made sometime back. Guys gotta dream.....

Anyway, sneak peak at my Gdibi shell which should be in my hands tomorrow or Sat. The man is a mad genius with wood. And OMG he did not disappoint.





These are a couple of buttons and tips I have already made for Gdibi mods.





This one might already look familiar....at least to Rossum anyway....LOL.

Red Mallee Burl?
 

vapero

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the dark side of the mod
this accident happened while milling the squonk holes, I was really bummed but now I love it, it gives it character and definitely gives it an unique texture. a battle wound
beiu5EQ.jpg

hBx2cws.jpg

pGvxUA2.jpg
 

vapero

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Hi vapero------as long as you did not get hurt when this happened is all that matters.

I have never watched a milling machine work but they probably can be dangerous to your fingers.

mod looks good --it does have character--hahah
nothing happened fortunately I just didn't clamp it well enough and got a little ambitious and tried to mill a bit more per pass
 

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CaptSteve

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Hey guys been busy lately with work and also experimenting with some new squonkers. I haven't stopped building mods and in fact I've made about 4-5 new one's since my last post.

In future I plan a C frame big screen DNA-40 squonker with a twist (not my ideal mod but I have to try making one). I've designed it already but prol'y won't start it for a couple months because of vacation time coming up.

For the past month or so I've worked on improving my finishing techniques because I realized that if I truly want to make great looking mods I have to improve my finishing.

Here is a sneak peak at a CA finish of a recent mod I made and hopefully when I get my finishing skills to the point that I feel I'm happy with I'll post some more future mods.

Thanks as always to all of you for your inspirational work

 

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CaptSteve

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I'm gonna need more pics than that Steve!

I noticed no brass/copper cap in there. Did you update the switch PDib style or did you do it completely different?

This mod is nothing more than a test bed. I don't intend to use this mod longterm just made it to 1) try something out for Peter (pdib) and 2) practice a new way to apply CA finish. It's fully functional of course but not something I'll use. It'll eventually get stripped of hardware and placed in the "Shells I can use" box.

I've made about 35-40 squonkers, most of them just sit on a shelf empty I only use 1 or 2 daily
 

asdaq

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Stunning as usual Steve, and I'd certainly be liking to hear about this new CA application technique. My "Feels like holding hand lotion" mod certainly feels slick, has a great shine, but if I look for it in the right light I can see the unevenness in the finish itself. Swirls and ex-puddles to be blatant about it. Please tell, and feel free to post pics of the other 3-4 mods, its been awfully quiet in new-mod-picture-land.
 

CaptSteve

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The CA finish is by far the best way to protect a mod longterm and it's the hardest finish I know. The problem with this finishing method is that it takes patience and lots of careful sanding.

I apply about 6 coats of CA all over the mod then progressively sand starting with grits from 400 to 800. The problem with the sanding is that you want to create a flat even surface which looks dull. If you have an uneven surface you'll see some shiny spots and they must be all taken out. The other problem is that you basically want to remove some of the CA but NOT all of it and you really need to be careful in areas where CA is really thin (like edges). Many times after 6 coats and sanding I have to reapply some more coats depending on how I see the surface after the sanding.

The good thing with this finishing is that you can apply as much as you like and always sand it back flat. Likewise if in future you get a scratch you can sand it out and reapply CA and do the whole process again and the surface will look like new.

I used to use disposable hobby brushed to apply CA but I've found that applying it by hand helps distribute the CA more evenly (kinda rubbing it in). I put some drops of CA on the surface and rub it in lightly with my finger (of course I use gloves).

The mod in the picture above is a high gloss finish after buffing but you can achieve a less glossy look if you want by just using for final sanding a 3000-4000 grit pad.

You really need to practice this method on several surfaces (other than just flat) and it's basically to master how to effectively sand so you leave an even flat surface of CA. All sanding involved is strictly by hand without hardly any pressure.
 
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