Bought my first Mech Mod, scared to use it...

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supertrunker

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Let's stop this at once.

You don't have the experience or knowledge to use this thing. That's not slaughtering you, but you've been sold something well over your ability to take care of battery safety and coiling it.

Do i sound patronising? oh well.

What you are doing is unsafe.

Stop - right now.

T
 

AzPlumber

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The problem people typically run into is they leave the kick ring installed without a kick, and end up with a loose battery. They're the same ones who refer to it as a "beauty ring". :D Then they compensate for that extra 3mm or so of tube length by extending that switch pin. It isn't supposed to be loose (i.e. extended). Install the proper tubes, remove the kick ring, tighten the switch pin completely and your 65mm long 18650 battery (button top or flat-top, doesn't matter) will stack up perfectly in your mod as intended.

View attachment 560417

If that ring is 3mm calling it a kick ring is misleading as the kicks and their clones are around 16mm.
 

BradJ

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It's quite important that you know what wire you are using, especially on a mech.

I hate to sound like a kill joy, but please please keep that thing shelved until you have read into mechanicals more. These are advanced user items that govern a lot of respect in order to keep you safe and perform well.

I ain't taking it out of the house, much less sticking it in my pocket.

I really just want info on whether this is a faulty mod.

Where should the battery vents be? Because I only see them covered by the locking ring.
20160603_230321.jpg
 

BradJ

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Let's stop this at once.

You don't have the experience or knowledge to use this thing. That's not slaughtering you, but you've been sold something well over your ability to take care of battery safety and coiling it.

Do i sound patronising? oh well.

What you are doing is unsafe.

Stop - right now.

T
Yeah that's fine, I can stop. What I'm asking for, obviously, is advice.

"Stop" doesn't really help me. I have a good battery and I can unscrew the thing. I don't keep it all together and leave it. I can get good draws through it but please review the title of this thread. Safety is paramount.
 

supertrunker

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Whether anyone thinks a mech mod is the Towser's testes or not all depends on people's safety.

Let's set a few ground rules out:

If you use a mechanical mod - YOU are responsible for your safety. Not me. YOU. i will sue YOU.

You build you own coils in these things - so you know how to build coils right? Maybe you've been doing it for a while.
i don't much care what coils you use, as long as you are able to measure them. If you use a mech, that's a given.

^ This is what i had already written to your last reply.

T
 
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Ben85

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Although you may feel that "stop" doesn't help you, it's probably the best advice in this thread. What we are saying is, the questions you are asking are kind of irrelevant as you don't know the basics about mech use. There is so much more than simply having good batteries and the knowledge of how to strip a tube.

With regards to your venting query, I'm afraid I cannot help you. A Nemi never made it into my collection.
 
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BradJ

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Well, thanks I guess for the no advice. I still have the RMA so back it goes for my nine bucks. Based on the answers in this thread, mech mods seem to really suck ....

What's the point anyway?

I'll buy a regulated 150 watt.

ETA: Ben85, first constructive reply, thank you. Still done with mechs though
 
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Bad Ninja

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Sorry if I came off like a dick there, but honestly asking why people still like mech mods over a regulated 150 watt?

Because mechanicals are unregulated, unrestricted and purely manual.
However you must actually know what you are doing. There isnt a shortcut.
They arent for everyone.
They are advanced gear for people who understand how to use them.

Its not that complicated but it does take actual research on your part to be safe and to get the best experience.

The mod you have is a Nemesis clone.
It CAN be safely used...IF you educate yourself a bit.
Start with the link Ben provided.
 

KenD

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Maniac mod safety: the batteries and coils are everything.

Your batteries have to be the best money can buy.

i mean it.

Not some crap Efests - i mean 30A Sony batteries or similar.
There's a reason i look smooth and cool.

T
There are no 30 amp Sonys though...

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 

mhertz

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Quality/safe batteries doesn't have to be expensive either, name brands of Samsung, LG and Sony with amp ratings in-line with your personal usage-scenario, and double-checking the manufacturer-provided specs with trustworthy testing-sources like mooch and lygte-info.dk... ;)

As the Ninja explained very good previously, then mechs are for hobby'ists who are advanced-users which enjoy tinkering and want complete manual control without any hand-holding. Longevity of gear, and for some, aesthetics and/or size, are also added benefits... You are the sole masterer of your own personal vape and work in tandem with your gear, instead of relying on the chip in a regulated mod to do it for you ;)
 
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Forkeh

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The vent holes are there. They're under the locking ring. Look closely at the locking ring, it's notched out inside to allow air flow even when the locking ring isn't screwed down. I've had many Nemmys. Always was my favorite mech (probably gonna pick one up again due to the impending regulations. I was stupid to throw mine away). If for some reason, you think that the airflow through the vent holes isn't working properly, throw it away. Don't compromise safety.

Speaking of safety, STOP USING THAT THING RIGHT NOW!!!!! Because you don't know what you're doing. I'm not saying this to be condescending. I'm saying this to keep you from exploding your face. You know all those stories you hear about ecigs blowing up? Well these are the ones that generally do that, when they aren't used properly.

So you don't know how to build coils. I don't really care about that. Many of us may or may not build our own coils for whatever reason. But you need to understand what a coils build means. You need to understand how resistance relates to battery safety. You can't just pop any resistance atty on any battery and call it a day. Furthermore, a build that's safe on a fresh battery, may not be safe on a battery that's almost dead. Do you know Ohms law? Do you have a device to check the resistance of your atty regularly? No? Then you shouldn't be using this device.

Go back, and read the guides other users have posted for you. Read them, read them again, read them until you understand them. Bookmark the resistance safety by battery and charge chart. That will always be useful to you. Go buy a multi meter to check your battery charge, and a resistance meter so you can check the resistance of your attys (you can do this with a multi meter, but it's a pain in the .... and both devices are really cheap). This is not difficult knowledge to learn, in the slightest. And I have faith that you'll pick it up just fine. But it really is necessary knowledge.

Just having the vape shop build you a coil that should be okay on your battery isn't good enough. You need the ability to check that atty every day, multiple times a day. Because the atty might get bumped, the coil might move slightly and make contact with the side of the top cap, or the build posts, then you have a short. The wire might break. Things can happen. You have to check your coil regularly. Even if you're using a factory built coil in a tank. Things can go very wrong. A short puts you at risk for a thermal runway. You don't want that. And vent holes won't save you from a whole lot of bad juju. Yeah they keep your mod from becoming a pipe bomb. They do not keep your battery from failing spectacularly (hot battery internals are not something you want anywhere on your body or in your general vicinity).

Your other mod is a regulated device. It has a computer that shuts things down if anything goes wrong, like a short. Your mech mod does not. You have to manually regulate your device. Until you have the knowledge and willingness to use it safely, for your own good, please don't use it. It's not worth the risk. Always respect the limitation of your hardware.
 

Forkeh

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Well, thanks I guess for the no advice. I still have the RMA so back it goes for my nine bucks. Based on the answers in this thread, mech mods seem to really suck ....

What's the point anyway?

I'll buy a regulated 150 watt.

ETA: Ben85, first constructive reply, thank you. Still done with mechs though

That's probably for the best if you don't want to bother learning battery safety. And you know what? That's just fine. You're absolutely right. Mech mods aren't for everyone. It's really more of a niche product these days. Used to be a big attraction because they had better wattage capability than regulated devices, and those regulated devices were impressively fragile. At least the ones that weren't ridiculously expensive. I can't tell you how many fancy vv mods I ruined years ago.

These days, regulated mods can do really impressive things (other than being fragile I mean), and tend to be a great deal sturdier. Most people are completely happy with them. But like I said, mechs still have a small following of those who prefer them.
 
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Firestorm

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Where should the battery vents be? Because I only see them covered by the locking ring.

Assemble the mod without a battery or a top cap. Put the open end to your lips and blow through it to expose how the venting works.

If you tighten up the switch completely you may get no airflow, but you would always have a gap with a battery inserted.
 

Baditude

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Where should the battery vents be? Because I only see them covered by the locking ring.
View attachment 562077

Ideally, vent holes should be in the upper 1/3 of the mod body. Batteries will vent from their top (positive end), so this is where the gas will accumulate. A mech whose vent holes are in the bottom of the mod may have inadequate venting because the battery itself may block the escape route to the vent holes. Inadequate venting is akin to having a pipe bomb should the battery vent.

Others will disagree with me, but I advocate having vent holes drilled into the top of the mod if none are present. I don't recommend using a hand drill to accomplish this, its too hard. Find someone who uses a drill press and show them exactly where you want the holes drilled.

There's no standard on how many holes or what size they should be. My guess is that two 2 mm holes strategically located where the top of the battery lies in the mod when fully assembled will be adequate.

Mech Mods with top venting holes?
 
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