When playing with currents running as high as vapers do, it kind of is a russian roulette game if you really think about it. There are plenty of factors that you can control such as how much current your build is suppose to pull for instance, but then there are factors that you can't such as manufacturing defects so it's honestly best to play it safe when you sub ohm ESPECIALLY if you use an unregulated mod. The explosions usually aren't entirely random (I've never heard of one that couldn't be prevented from going catastrophic) but are a combination of many factors leading to the failure
I agree with this.
Rolygate, our forum administrator and quite a battery expert himself, has this to say:
"August 2014: We have now had the first confirmed mechmod explosion due to sub-ohming, which took place at the recent VapeBlast event. The device exploded, blew a hole in the ceiling 20 feet above, brought down a ceiling tile, and burnt a hole in the floor. As this was witnessed by dozens of people (also, the explosion was heard by a hundred people or so) and the photos are widely available, it is impossible to deny that it occurred. It seems lucky that no one was hurt; indeed the mechmod owner ran away in order that if any injury occurred he wouldn't be held accountable and to avoid paying for the damage. As the device became hot he threw it down, then it exploded. The incident occurred at a Cloud Contest although it is not known if the vaper who caused the explosion was a bystander or a competitor; since he was clearly stressing-out his rig it seems possible he was about to compete.
What can be learned from this
An incident like this is caused by a chain of design errors, user actions, and possibly a battery fault.
- Sealed metal tubes will probably explode if a battery vents violently
- Small vents at the bottom of the tube are useless, only very large gas vents near the top have a good chance of preventing an explosion
- Building coils lower than 0.2 ohm will raise the amp draw exponentially and this increases risk - the power graph shows a significant change at 0.2 ohms and starts to climb vertically as resistance is reduced further
- Using cheap batteries with ultra low res coils is a certain route to high risk - it needs 30 amp batteries of guaranteed high quality
- Using a 26650 cell is intrinsically safer as it can take a higher load
- Using long draws or machine-gun draws to create monster clouds stresses the battery much more
- Cloud Contests are events where people put ultra high stress on their rig to create monster clouds; if spectating, you could consider standing at the back of the room to stay safe
- If you run a Cloud Contest then you should probably check that your personal and business insurance is really, really good and is appropriate for dangerous sports
- People are now discussing the safety (!) involved with putting 100-amp pulses on their batteries in order to create the biggest clouds with the lowest resistance coils; there is only one way this is going to go and you don't want to be within the explosion radius: someone may have a counterfeit battery, or one that is just too small for this extreme usage mode together with ignoring the device getting warm or even hot."
"Rest batteries after charging. One commonly reported factor in almost all the incidents we hear of where batteries failed violently while in use is that they were taken directly off the charger and then used immediately, at which point they failed.
Because of this, we think it may be a good idea to rest batteries after charging them. This advice will not be found in the usual reference bibles on batteries, but we see more and different reports than other. Therefore we now advise: Do not use batteries directly after charging them. Use a battery or batteries you previously charged, and that have rested for several hours. This is especially important if using a stacked pair for higher voltage, as statistically the risk is far higher."
----Rolygate: Warning: Batteries for APV's
I'll also add that if your mechanical mod uses a wire spring in the battery department, make sure it is a so-called "
hot spring". This spring is designed to melt or collapse should the battery reach a critical temperature, breaking the electrical connection to the atomizer, and hopefully prevent the battery from going into full blown thermal runaway.
Mechanical mod manufacturers need to develop safer designs to avoid inadequate venting episodes. Small holes or no holes in a mech is a pipe bomb waiting to happen. Batteries are designed to vent from their tops. Adequate venting near the top of the mod where the battery will release gas needs to be incorporated into their design.
Imagine this IMR battery exploding in your mechanical mod
For example, the AltSmoke Silver Bullet mechanical is
designed to vent gas via the fire button, which is located on the side and upper end of the mod exactly where the top of the battery is located.
It is also a
recessed button, which makes accidental firing of the switch unlikely in a pocket or purse. Most mechanical mods utilize a bottom firing button, simply because they are easier and cheaper to manufacture. Setting these mods down on end could accidentally depress the fire button. Those with a locking mechanism on the fire button must use that mechanism each time the mod is set down, and who does that each and every time?

Recessed side fire button in a Silver Bullet