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can we have a tutorial on the SUCKaTON V3? more like a PICtorial cos im not sure about the parts you used and how you did it... 
Using Tantalum isn't set in stone.WB, yes I am, the CAZ. I was surprised too, but it seems the caps help. I couldn't get the tantalums, but was inspired by tinear's soldering to make it more compact
Note this cap right from the spec sheet. Recommended for both in/out.
EEU-FC1E181 Panasonic Electronic Components Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
Priced right, but It's a tad big though.
better at 150 and you could go below 25 volts, type of cap = delivery rate of smoke. they have mega Uf caps at 5 volts but can only deliver a little smoke but for a LONG time
so i can go ahead and use the 150? thanks KW!!! just the answer i wanted to hear! the 150uf come for $0.55 while the 100uF is $2...
im a cheap ....... thats going to start a new VARBox on monday!!!!
Don't know enough to give you a definitive answer, but you'll note the recommended Panasonic cap from the spec sheet is 180uf. I don't think we have to be so technical, I would stay at a 16V+ minimum cap though.
D, I'll try, but the parts are so small
WB, those are most likely smaller than mine. The 25V are as long as the board is wide and I have them tucked in sideways on the component side of the board, which made it a _bit_ shorter, and kinda looks like Fred Flintstone's car.
Sorry gice, this one is all mine
WB, those are most likely smaller than mine. The 25V are as long as the board is wide and I have them tucked in sideways on the component side of the board, which made it a _bit_ shorter, and kinda looks like Fred Flintstone's car.
Sorry gice, this one is all mine
That’s the problem with caps it’s a smoke storage device and there is a small range of the smoke density per volume ratio of each type of cap, it’s not like they need more gates. But these power devices need the smoke storage (and making the smoke smooth) to keep the smoke delivered high and the smoke used by the magic rock to work turned back into fire/heat, so they don’t break the law of conversation of smoke and fire. A nice big cap means little smoke will be lost going back to fire.
Now you need to hear from the people who are building them on which type of cap works best in the real world.
Now you need to hear from the people who are building them on which type of cap works best in the real world.
if tantalum type is working for the others (and i think it should but no experimental experence with these circuits with that type) these should work, they are getting less space with the lower voltage but jese they are small for that smoke denisity.
Try it, at that size try two or 3 and see if the efficiency gets better for the magic rock and smoke delivery to the atty
Try it, at that size try two or 3 and see if the efficiency gets better for the magic rock and smoke delivery to the atty
The only 10V with tantalums may be a problem, but they are low ESR.
I'm pretty sure the ones tinear used were only 10v
correction: nuck used
correction: nuck used
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Yes you are correct.
I believe Sci had some issues with lower voltage caps, I don't know if he was referring to these types.
It appears your Vout plays a role in choosing tantalums (usually 2X). In the spec sheet the only 10V tantalum listed has this note:
I'd like to know exactly which (part number) cap you are using.
Pretty much like this, sorry about the Polish, but the numbers are clear
I'll have a better look inside in the morning. I only got the 2 and they are in use.
I'll have a better look inside in the morning. I only got the 2 and they are in use.
at least it's not "Surface Mount" I have no idea how they do it with SM, I can barely get my probes on it for troubleshooting, let alone building one with out a wave solder tank
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Sorry Xanax, I couldn't make them quick enough to justify not being a hobby.
Here's some pics of the teardown. It's quite quick to take apart and reassemble, just needed a socket to loosen/tighten the switch nut.
Service mode:
Bottom view, to get the battery:
Further dismantle:
Deeper:
Switch dismantled:
Just the switch, showing correct order:
Cheers!
Here's some pics of the teardown. It's quite quick to take apart and reassemble, just needed a socket to loosen/tighten the switch nut.
Service mode:
Bottom view, to get the battery:
Further dismantle:
Deeper:
Switch dismantled:
Just the switch, showing correct order:
Cheers!
First..the mod looks kickass.
For caps I've tested these out heavily:
T520B107M006ATE018 Kemet Tantalum Capacitors - Polymer SMD
Soldered direct on the boost they perform perfectly. LOESD is very important when selecting the caps.
A single 14500 is going to problematic for the boost though. You might get away with it for higher ohm atties but I've never found a 14500 that can keep up. The amount of current drawn from the battery is quite a bit higher than the current sent to the atty since there is the power conversion plus the losses. The effect gets amplified as the battery discharges and the Vin is reduced.
You can bypass the issue with high drain 14500 but then you run into the problem of reduced cycle times. I guess it comes down to how heavy a vaper you are and what your atty of choice is.
For caps I've tested these out heavily:
T520B107M006ATE018 Kemet Tantalum Capacitors - Polymer SMD
Soldered direct on the boost they perform perfectly. LOESD is very important when selecting the caps.
A single 14500 is going to problematic for the boost though. You might get away with it for higher ohm atties but I've never found a 14500 that can keep up. The amount of current drawn from the battery is quite a bit higher than the current sent to the atty since there is the power conversion plus the losses. The effect gets amplified as the battery discharges and the Vin is reduced.
You can bypass the issue with high drain 14500 but then you run into the problem of reduced cycle times. I guess it comes down to how heavy a vaper you are and what your atty of choice is.
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