Coming right along Dan, it looks great. Are you going for a side removable battery, or just for viewing?
- Status
Thanks!
The Mill... hehehehe
Think it might have to be a drop in 16340, here is a pic with the MAP tank done and electronics started:
Had to make a centering puch for the washers. I had to many that were slightly off when making the tanks, nothing worse than an off center hole!
Well we will see how it turns out!
Dan
asdaq :
Nice work love the copper mod sweet.
Scubabatadan:
Really like the hole punch nice design ,. Mill humm like to cheat on machineing like me ha ha ,only way to get it right is with the right tools .
Nice work love the copper mod sweet.
Scubabatadan:
Really like the hole punch nice design ,. Mill humm like to cheat on machineing like me ha ha ,only way to get it right is with the right tools .
Wow! That's amazing! I was happy with pretty straight but man that is some serious attention to detail. I'd forgotten about your circuit boards too, are they in anything else of yours?
LOL, sorry I am late in posting. Was at the beach and just got back, forced sabatical by the wife
. Yes my OCD was kicking in when I was making that I do have a couple box mods I put it in, not so much need to worry about isolating connectors as with aluminum. Will continue on the circuitry and attach the two pieces hopefully today. Looking at putting the circuit in the bottom of the battery compartment.
Dan
Got the circuitry done today...
I used SMD resistors for the board, looks like it is a go to encase it for mounting.
Dan
I used SMD resistors for the board, looks like it is a go to encase it for mounting.
Dan
Real nice Dan, touch circuitry looks tempting indeed. You said you wanted to put your board under the batt, but wouldn't it be more economical/less wiring in the cap under the contact points? There's lots of real estate there not so much in the bottom. That might throw off battery removal, but if it popped out the side? Also, does the atty side get a fob cap too?
Well I looked at it, and I will not be able to do a side removal, so if I mount the circuit on the bottom and the pos side of the battery is on bottom, I can put a spring in the cap and use the body as the ground. Otherwise I would have to figure out how to connect and disconnecect the pos wire to the atty. On the bottom I can connect direct and then use the body as ground so no wire to the cap. Also the touch wire will be up the inside of the thumb side frame short of the cap. And no the atty resivor side will not get a cap as the tank will screw into the atty connector.
Dan
hey Dan, what is that atty arrangement your using?
I'm not real sure what a cartomizer is but that is what I assume it is.
I am using a walmart pill fob on top of a fistpack in sort of a psuedo genisis. Fob has rca connector and I use mesh and kanthal with silica for absorption. It vapes like a genisis.
Do you have to change the silica on your setup often?
BTW, love the mill.
I'm not real sure what a cartomizer is but that is what I assume it is.
I am using a walmart pill fob on top of a fistpack in sort of a psuedo genisis. Fob has rca connector and I use mesh and kanthal with silica for absorption. It vapes like a genisis.
Do you have to change the silica on your setup often?
BTW, love the mill.
That is a 510 XL CE2 Clearomizer in a madvapes 22mm bottle:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tank-mod-youll-see-today-25.html#post2956808
A cartomizer is an entirly different beast, it is a one piece unit that uses batting material wrapped around a heating coil with a wick that drops down into the resivoir producing a burnt tast when dry as the heating coil burns the batting material surrounding it.
I love pill fobs!
The silica rope, does not have to be changed, many people actually burn it with a lighter to purify it. Have heard it produces a cleaner flavor.
Thanks, the mill was given to me by my dad (he got a bigger one!) LOL
Dan
Ok got the two pill fobs screwed together, installed the circuitry, and added the 510 connector. Only thing left is making the contacts for the touch switch. Have a look...
Looking good so far...
I think I might cut the extra top of the pill fob off and give the resivor side extra length and support.
Dan
Looking good so far...
I think I might cut the extra top of the pill fob off and give the resivor side extra length and support.
Dan
Last edited:
Shhh-harp edges Nah just kidding it's coming right along, and splendidly too.
What if, and I'm guessing the fob has an OD of 25mm and the cap has the male threads, you cut the top off of the remaining cap just below the ridge of the bottle so there was a ring of fob to blend in the other side and give a more complementary hold. Would it fit with the threads?
Nah just kidding it's coming right along, and splendidly too. What if, and I'm guessing the fob has an OD of 25mm and the cap has the male threads, you cut the top off of the remaining cap just below the ridge of the bottle so there was a ring of fob to blend in the other side and give a more complementary hold. Would it fit with the threads?
Shhh-harp edges
What if, and I'm guessing the fob has an OD of 25mm and the cap has the male threads, you cut the top off of the remaining cap just below the ridge of the bottle so there was a ring of fob to blend in the other side and give a more complementary hold. Would it fit with the threads?
Right, the cap does have male threads. Just checked and the 22mm bottles do not fit into the top lid. Hmm I could bore it out, but not sure how thin the wall would be at the base of the threads once I did it. Only one way to find out
Thanks for sending me down this road, I have been wanting to do somthing fun and unique for awhile now.
BTW, the electronics are on the bottom and flipped upside down in the plastic liner that was in the pill fob to start with, just cut it down to 1/4" tall. I just mixed up some plastic quicksteel and mashed it in there. Sucker is hard as a rock and and water proof now to boot
I used the same stuff on the atty connector, it aint going anywhere and is also water proof.
Dan
Heh, nothing says waterproof like an exposed battery!
I went to actually attach the copper coils only to discover my cheapo soldering iron had died, so while waiting for a decent station went ahead and took a butane pencil torch to it. Great fun, but rather difficult to control the heat and it comes out looking cruder than with the iron. But the coils are stuck in place and also center the battery now.
I went to actually attach the copper coils only to discover my cheapo soldering iron had died, so while waiting for a decent station went ahead and took a butane pencil torch to it. Great fun, but rather difficult to control the heat and it comes out looking cruder than with the iron. But the coils are stuck in place and also center the battery now.
Hi Dan
Nice work love the case.I Was thinking of a protective housing for a CE2 for my Girl friend . Nicely done Tell me was the Mosfet a IRF8736PbF . If so explain the capacitors to me . A diagram would be sweet also.
Thanks Dan
Nice work love the case.I Was thinking of a protective housing for a CE2 for my Girl friend . Nicely done Tell me was the Mosfet a IRF8736PbF . If so explain the capacitors to me . A diagram would be sweet also.
Thanks Dan
I am using a digikey part number IRF8736TRPBFCT-ND (AKA IRF8736PbF):
Digi-Key - IRF8736TRPBFCT-ND (Manufacturer - IRF8736TRPBF)
It is good to 30v 18A, PDF sheet:
http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf8736pbf.pdf
(1) 100M SMD resistor:
Digi-Key - HVCB2512FKC100MCT-ND (Manufacturer - HVCB2512FKC100M)
And
(1) 47k SMD resistor:
Digi-Key - 541-47KPACT-ND (Manufacturer - CRCW201047K0JNEFHP)
Diagram:
Size comparison:
Alternante method to board mounting:
Top Wire goes to ATTY, Left Wire goes to Battery (-) , Bottom Wire goes to (-) touch contact point
(+) from battery goes to ATTY, and to (+) touch contact point
Another alternate configuration:
Note the "DOT" is pin 1, I also cut legs 2 and 3, this is so they do not touch the center of the resistor.
Hope this helps...
Dan
Last edited:
Dan, how hard is it to solder that boardless version? I realize those are tiny components, but with only 3 contact points...
Very easy, as utak3 said, sharp tip and good tin it will flow easy. Just make sure to pre-tin the components, then it is just a touch to join them. I got the purple nurple done.... (could not think of a better name). Here is the review:
Thanks Asdaq for inspiring me!
Dan
- Status
Similar threads
