Other than having a preference for the color, what reasons are there to choose one metal over another in a mech mod? Is it simply a matter of trading hardness for conductivity, or is there more to it than that? And where does aluminum fit in there?
Brass vs. copper vs. steel
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Interesting. I'd like to know more.
My mech is stainless steel with copper screws for contacts. I have no complaints at all about performance. It hits great! But what experiences do others have?
My mech is stainless steel with copper screws for contacts. I have no complaints at all about performance. It hits great! But what experiences do others have?
This assumes all bar stock starts in the lower left corner, as you will notice, silver is only marginally more conductive than copper. For two mods of the same element, the one with more mass will generally have less resistance (I.e. less current drop). Because of this, a larger mod made from brass might have lower resistance than a smaller copper mod.
Aside from conductivity, the other main factor in choosing what your mod is made out of is durability. Copper is extremely conductive, but much more malleable than stainless steel. A drop that didn't even scratch my stainless praxis would have likely destroyed my copper 4Nine.
...Lookin for the +10 button ? 
Very informative, thanks!
Also, not in the OPs question, but likewise important is the overall design and tolerances of such, e.g. as little threaded contact-points as possible and/or better threads and stable(not wobbly)-contacts will be beneficial etc.
Very informative, thanks!Also, not in the OPs question, but likewise important is the overall design and tolerances of such, e.g. as little threaded contact-points as possible and/or better threads and stable(not wobbly)-contacts will be beneficial etc.
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Wrecks isnt a term I would use.
Even noticing the difference would be a stretch with most builds.
For example:
With a .3 ohm build, you cannot notice any difference on a Brass or an aluminum Cherry Bomber.
Hmm, isn't there something wrong with that chart.. After seeing silver on it, then I didn't get it... Everywhere else the order goes: silver, copper, gold, aluminium, zinc, nickel, brass, bronz, iron, platinium, steel, lead, stainless steel...
Edit: I'm talking equal sizes obviously...
Edit2: Ok, i've just awarded myself with idiot of the year award, lol! Sorry please disregard my fulishness...
Edit: I'm talking equal sizes obviously...
Edit2: Ok, i've just awarded myself with idiot of the year award, lol!
Sorry please disregard my fulishness...
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Assuming the same mass, the lower you build, the more you will be able to note the differences in material.
Aluminum is prone to oxidize/corrode more causing connection/voltage drop issues in threads and such.
Alum is VERY prone to corrode where it comes into contact with another metal esp when electric current is flowing.
Alum is VERY prone to corrode where it comes into contact with another metal esp when electric current is flowing.
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its showing about twice as much brass for the same conductivity, how is that not "wrecking"...
Wrecking isn't used properly.
Nor is science.
Most of your noticeable voltage drip comes from internal resistance in your batteries (or a dirty/oxidized contact point).
Stressing over conductivity of brass/copper/aluminum mods when your builds are not below .4 is a waste of time.
If you are all about super low resistance builds, then yes it's noticeable, but not like some suggest.
People make such a big deal out of it without understanding what's happening with their device.
Sorry
I guess my snarkiness didn't translate very well.
Lol
Charts make the differences look greater than they are in our context of use.
Voltage drop and conductivity differences between metal mechanical mods are more noticeable with lower resistance builds.
With builds over .5 ohms there's not a lot of noticeable conductivity differences, if everything is clean and tight.
I'll tell ya 1 thing- The DIRECT-TO-BATTERY connection mods hit MUCH harder than the 510 connection-pin to battery mods. Atomizer to battery to Firing Button = a noticeably harder hit (even above 0.4) when compared to Atomizer to 510 connection to Battery to Firing Button.
I disagree. I measured at 0.33 ohms on my Stingray X using the floating pin, and then the 'hybrid' connector and saw only 0.03 volts difference. Which equates to 0.76 watts under perfect conditions, which most could agree is for all intents and purposes irrelevant. 'Hybrid' 510s offer benefits of simplicity and size, but little else other than severe safety issues in the wrong hands.
The design (number of points of connectivity, thread tolerances), the materials used and their relative mass and the quality of the battery are what makes for low voltage drop. At the end of the day if you really want to deliver power to a coil efficiently you need a regulated mod. Don't get me wrong I love my mechs, but their inefficiency really grinds my gears at times.
haha well i sort-of figured some1 would come in and pop my balloon. I knew what I was saying was going to be proven wrong by somebody
well from my limited exp, direct2batt mods hit HARD. Hard as a rock. & while the safety hazards are a little-bit scary (esp if they were to ever gain in popularity, god forbid) they are all-around genuinely hard-hittin' mods. that battery def has a chance to shine when not running through 510 to 510, maybe that's just my opinion. maybe because the only d2b mod I've tested thus far, has a silica microcoil build that goes dry after every 2 hits (probably due to the silica being so thin, not due-to the power reaching it) but from my minds eye, all it sees is a strong hitting mod that's forcing dry-burns every 2-3 hits, in-comparison to my other mods (which also coincidentally have cotton microcoil builds of larger diameter) which give me 5-10 hits per drip-session soooo, idk, but from my personal experience, BOY does them-there D2B mods WERK!!Q: What kind of things should I take into consideration when trying to choose between gas or diesel?haha well i sort-of figured some1 would come in and pop my balloon. I knew what I was saying was going to be proven wrong by somebody
A: In my experience, red cars are really fast. Maybe that's because the only red car I've driven so far has been a Lamborghini that guzzles gas like a camel guzzles water, in comparison to my other cars which are solar-powered electric hybrids. So idk, but from my experience BOY those red cars can GEW!
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Moonreef sized it up nicely in this thread.
Metal conductivity, at a glance
Basically, in any mech mod, differences in resistance between different materials is negligible. We're talking a difference between .0002 ohm and .00002 ohm. You may think you can detect a difference, but it's in your head. Can't really argue with math.
With that in mind, stainless is the clear winner for its advantages in hardness and anti-corrosion properties.
Metal conductivity, at a glance
Basically, in any mech mod, differences in resistance between different materials is negligible. We're talking a difference between .0002 ohm and .00002 ohm. You may think you can detect a difference, but it's in your head. Can't really argue with math.
With that in mind, stainless is the clear winner for its advantages in hardness and anti-corrosion properties.
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