BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.
- Thread starter Big Screen D
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Just did another one this time on my x9 protank clone. I used the drill bit way and loved it. As the poster has said you do not push the positive pin in completely just enough to hold the leg and still allow you to get the rubber into the opening.
I only have 32g wire atm and no torch so my coils are turning out microish not a true micro coil. Other other coils i have done turned out at about 2.4 to 2.8 but are working great with about 5 to 6 wraps. This one i went more wraps shooting for a higher ohm and got it at 3.2 Not sure how many wraps i did. I wanted the higher ohm because the lower ones were tasting burnt on the diy usb mod i am using the protank on. I cant regulate the volts on it. Its a flat 5v and 2amp fro ma usb wall charger lol. All day on it now and its working like a charm So these dont have to be a tight micro coil.
I am new to all this stuff and just sort of winging it. But so far have had good luck with it.
One thing i am noticing and i am not sure why its doing this is. The juice in the clearomizers with these coils are getting very discolored.
At the start of a tank (4ml) its just a nice light brow nto clear and at the half way mark its dark brown. On the little t3s ones i can even see little dark brown bubbles of liquid around the wick openings. Maybe its spitting out into the tank some? I am not getting any spit up the tube from the coil though. I got a good amount of cotton peaking out of the wick holes so not sure why its doing this.
I only have 32g wire atm and no torch so my coils are turning out microish not a true micro coil. Other other coils i have done turned out at about 2.4 to 2.8 but are working great with about 5 to 6 wraps. This one i went more wraps shooting for a higher ohm and got it at 3.2 Not sure how many wraps i did. I wanted the higher ohm because the lower ones were tasting burnt on the diy usb mod i am using the protank on. I cant regulate the volts on it. Its a flat 5v and 2amp fro ma usb wall charger lol. All day on it now and its working like a charm So these dont have to be a tight micro coil.
I am new to all this stuff and just sort of winging it. But so far have had good luck with it.
One thing i am noticing and i am not sure why its doing this is. The juice in the clearomizers with these coils are getting very discolored.
At the start of a tank (4ml) its just a nice light brow nto clear and at the half way mark its dark brown. On the little t3s ones i can even see little dark brown bubbles of liquid around the wick openings. Maybe its spitting out into the tank some? I am not getting any spit up the tube from the coil though. I got a good amount of cotton peaking out of the wick holes so not sure why its doing this.
You don't have to make dual coil, I was looking at this new BCC because looks like there is more space available for the vertical coil compared with EVOD.
Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2
Last edited:
I must say, this is awesome. I was just about fed up with my evod trying to get it to feed but not gurgle and flood. The small space thing is a pain though. I've had success with both 50/50 b&m juice and some 30/70 ahlushion Boba tea. As was suggested definitely let it sit and soak when first priming and you should be g2g.
First of all, thanks to BSD for this clever idea.
And, thanks to kgs-wy for the method of installation of the coil that let's you see the height of the coil above the insulator.
I made my first Protank 2 coil with 30 ga Kanthal, about 13 wraps, measured 2.7 on my Provari mini. I had trouble telling where the bottom (positive) end of the coil was going to end up in relation to the grommet. I think it's too close, but it does not seem to be burning the rubber insulator. Packed the cotton, primed it, and after letting it sit, I'm getting clouds of good vapor at 4.7v.
Next time, I'll do one wrap fewer to lower the resistance, and try kgs' method of coil positioning. I also think my initial cotton packing density was too firm; so I'll lighten up on that as well.
Last note. My first experience with the PT2 with the stock head and my Provari Mini; could not get sufficient airflow without loosening the connection a bit. With the vertical coil, that issue is solved.
And, thanks to kgs-wy for the method of installation of the coil that let's you see the height of the coil above the insulator.
I made my first Protank 2 coil with 30 ga Kanthal, about 13 wraps, measured 2.7 on my Provari mini. I had trouble telling where the bottom (positive) end of the coil was going to end up in relation to the grommet. I think it's too close, but it does not seem to be burning the rubber insulator. Packed the cotton, primed it, and after letting it sit, I'm getting clouds of good vapor at 4.7v.
Next time, I'll do one wrap fewer to lower the resistance, and try kgs' method of coil positioning. I also think my initial cotton packing density was too firm; so I'll lighten up on that as well.
Last note. My first experience with the PT2 with the stock head and my Provari Mini; could not get sufficient airflow without loosening the connection a bit. With the vertical coil, that issue is solved.
I am thinking of getting one of the new kayfun 3.1 clones next month and i m looking forward to trying some thing like this just on a larger scale in it lol.
I finally pick one I made last week. 30ga kanthal 12/13 wrap around a 1/16 drill bit, 2.44ohms. I got the cotton packing right today, not to tight or loose.
With a lighter juice, VapeRight Carmel Brulee, wow what a difference!
BSD I must say I'm loving this setup. Thanks again.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
With a lighter juice, VapeRight Carmel Brulee, wow what a difference!
BSD I must say I'm loving this setup. Thanks again.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
So I did my first build , easier than I taught , used a drillbit 1/16 8 wraps resulted in a 1.8 ohm coil , stuffed with cotton from ear cleaning stick , not sure if it's organic or not tough.
Soaked it with my fav juice , placed in a full SG-H2 and fire away at 4v then jacked to 4.4... first 5-8 draws where really nice but then I start getting burnt taste , lowered voltage 4.2v , a bit better but still burnt , lowered now to 4 v better but now vape production not that great and some burned taste. Not bad for a first try , will try to locate some more decent cotton and try it again.
I am thinking maybe to wrap some 1 mm silica as filler.
Great Idea !
UPDATE : flipped the silicon gasket and now it works better , I guess more juice getting in.
Soaked it with my fav juice , placed in a full SG-H2 and fire away at 4v then jacked to 4.4... first 5-8 draws where really nice but then I start getting burnt taste , lowered voltage 4.2v , a bit better but still burnt , lowered now to 4 v better but now vape production not that great and some burned taste. Not bad for a first try , will try to locate some more decent cotton and try it again.
I am thinking maybe to wrap some 1 mm silica as filler.
Great Idea !
UPDATE : flipped the silicon gasket and now it works better , I guess more juice getting in.
Last edited:
Got my MVP v2 and my first gen Kanger ProTank Tuesday, got a good 'feel' for how the stock heads fire/flow/etc. since and took the plunge today into making a vertical coil for 'em.
I now understand the problem dokebilee was having with my T3 clone method: the Kanger tanks have a flange at the bottom like my SI T3's, but an additional lip at the top of the gasket that holds it in place within the -- as I call it -- positive pin assembly better. It does make it very hard to use my method, so I'm looking at some slight modifications I can do, to see if they work.
If they don't, 'm considering checking to see if one of my old T3 heads' gaskets will fit, or worst case scenario, trimming the top of the Kanger gasket to remove the lip (at a slight inwards angle from vertical/lengthwise so it still has its full length, but won't interfere with insertion). I'm not likely to do the latter, 'specially if my other techniques or the gasket from my spare SI T3 head works. If they don't, well, I'll probably do the cutting just to make it easier. If I don't, it's down to trying to insert the coil via the drill bit as a guide method...
I also learned a very valuable lesson today: kgs-wy should never, ever try and make a coil of this type while he's ...... off at the world! After losing two absolutely beautiful coils in the carpet under my work table, I stopped, took a deep breath (or a dozen or so...) and said, "Screw it, I'm doin' this tomorrow!"
Ah, well, tomorrow, progress report and pics!
At any rate, keep on vaping, everyone!
Laters...!
kgs-wy
I now understand the problem dokebilee was having with my T3 clone method: the Kanger tanks have a flange at the bottom like my SI T3's, but an additional lip at the top of the gasket that holds it in place within the -- as I call it -- positive pin assembly better. It does make it very hard to use my method, so I'm looking at some slight modifications I can do, to see if they work.
If they don't, 'm considering checking to see if one of my old T3 heads' gaskets will fit, or worst case scenario, trimming the top of the Kanger gasket to remove the lip (at a slight inwards angle from vertical/lengthwise so it still has its full length, but won't interfere with insertion). I'm not likely to do the latter, 'specially if my other techniques or the gasket from my spare SI T3 head works. If they don't, well, I'll probably do the cutting just to make it easier. If I don't, it's down to trying to insert the coil via the drill bit as a guide method...
I also learned a very valuable lesson today: kgs-wy should never, ever try and make a coil of this type while he's ...... off at the world! After losing two absolutely beautiful coils in the carpet under my work table, I stopped, took a deep breath (or a dozen or so...) and said, "Screw it, I'm doin' this tomorrow!"
Ah, well, tomorrow, progress report and pics!At any rate, keep on vaping, everyone!
Laters...!
kgs-wy
Getting the cotton just right is the trickiest part of this deal. Is hard to describe how to, and can vary depending on juice viscosity, and even coil diameter. A looser draw from use of a 1/16' bit, pulls in a little less juice than the smaller diameter tighter draw does etc.
As your edit indicates, the build probably had the cotton packed about right around the coil, but was too restrictive at the juice opening and was choking off wicking. Tis why it worked great till the primed coil dried up. Takes some trial and error to get this part right, and even then I still have to redo the cotton pack after a build sometimes even after having done quite a few of these myself now.
I just stumbled upon this thread looking for a way to get rid of the rubber/plastic taste in my T3's that I just bought.
Thanks BSD!
I'm gonna give this a try tonight. Looks promising to say the least!
Thanks BSD!
I'm gonna give this a try tonight. Looks promising to say the least!
I think you hit the nail right on the head , I need to work on improving the wicking action.
This whole mod is absolutely great. Actually today works better than last night.
I will play around with packing and just got some better cotton from doctor office
went this morning for flu shot and begged for some...Anyhow looking forward to more tweaking builds and when I get the BDC coils I will rip one open and turn it into a vertical mod coil.
Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk 2
My last (and first) attempt at this was with 28 gauge... Didn't work out so well, severe flooding issues, etc. I have just re-attempted now with two strands of 34 gauge twisted together tightly, and made a few other variations from my first approach. Build went fine, but since my girlfriend has the Protank, I wont be able to test it for a bit. All I can say at the moment is that it's reading 1.8 ohms on my multimeter.
Do let us know how the twisted wire works for you Yail. I think I have some 34ga Nichrome, and have been meaning to give it a go. Thinking it might work really well since the little voids between the coils may let juice get to the business end, meaning the coil interior more efficiently.
Keep at it man. Once you get it working right, it is really a great set up. Promise.
Keep at it man. Once you get it working right, it is really a great set up. Promise.
One reminder to folks. Fill your tank up almost fully. 90-95% full. If you start out with a partial tank as a trial, it will almost always flood.
Clearomisers of any description really aren't my style, but I bought a Protank for my girlfriend and come hell or high water, I'll get it working the best it can damnit!
Just redid one with hemp. Working fabulously. Wicking is spot on.
I cut the twine into roughly 1/8"-3/16" sections, letting the individual strands separate to make sort of a packing filler. Turns out much courser than cotton, but this seems to work really well. So far I'd say I like it better than cotton.
Dry burned, and ultrasonic cleaned a couple of coils. Good as new.
I cut the twine into roughly 1/8"-3/16" sections, letting the individual strands separate to make sort of a packing filler. Turns out much courser than cotton, but this seems to work really well. So far I'd say I like it better than cotton.
Dry burned, and ultrasonic cleaned a couple of coils. Good as new.
Stumbled across this forum and gave it a shot. I used 28 gauge kanthal with 13/14 wraps, coming in at 1.3 ohms (ProTank II). Used non-boiled organic cotton balls from CVS for packing. I must of got lucky, this was my first rebuild of any type of coil and it is working flawless!!! I am running about 1.3 ohms at 4.3 (almost 15 watts) on my Provari, and after 2 full tanks - No cotton taste, no leaking or dry burning!! I have been chain vaping it for 2 days now and I am convinced that this is the bees knees of vaping!! thank you for posting this, you have answered my prayers! If you have not had a successful build yet, DO NOT GIVE UP.
Welcome to ECF PeeWee. If not for stumbling across ECF, I'd no doubt be still smoking myself.
- Status
Similar threads
