Build a bottom feeder mod with a sx350 chipset

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JimzDogz

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I finally started ordering components for my sx350 bottom feeder mod build. This will be my first from scratch mod build so I'm a little anxious. I'll be updating this thread as work progresses. I'm hoping to get everything in next week, so stay tuned. Feel free to comment and offer hints along the way. Here is my parts list as of now.

sx350 chipset------Eciggity ($62.00) I was very happy to see that all connections to the board came installed, including the usb connection and +/- switch leads
Hammond 1590G project box---Kidney Puncher ($12.99)
510 v3 assembly with 22mm locking washer---FatDaddy Vapes ($5.99)
510 v3 Bottom Feeder Pins (5 pack)-----FatDaddy Vapes ($3.99)
6 ml. bottle tube kit----Reo Mods($4.00)
6ml. bottle-----Reo Mods($.65)
Spring for metal mods----Reo Mods($5.00) copper beryllium gold plated springs( instead of fuses)
Magnets----Reo Mods($.50 each)

I haven't decided on the tact switches yet and some of the cosmetic stuff. At this point I plan to use one 18650 battery for quick battery changes. Also at this time I plan to stay at 35w, I don't want to limit this mod to sub ohms. I'm at about $100.00 at this point, but I'll be getting a mod I haven't been able to find prebuilt. So, what do you think?
 

JimzDogz

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I've decided to use this switch for my fire button. It looks a lot like the one use on the Billit Box. I found them on Ebay.

Tactile Push Button Switch Metal Guide High Quality X2 | eBay

$_57.jpg
 
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JimzDogz

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This video shows what I'm going for, except I'll be using the sx350 chip instead of the sx220. I will have to make some adjustments to accommodate the large chipset. I can't understand a word of this, but a picture is worth a thousand words, right.
He gives you a look inside starting about 6:20 into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4Si6oyeb3E
 
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JimzDogz

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Parts started arriving today. It's a very simple task to disassemble the 510 and install the hollow pin. It's just a matter of removing the solid pin and replacing it with the hollow pin. With the new pin installed it maintains the floating center pin ability. These are high quality sturdy parts. Watch this video to see the disassembly process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5UtSpGOzvs&feature=youtu.be

510 v3 assembly with 22mm locking washer---FatDaddy Vapes ($5.99)
510 v3 Bottom Feeder Pins (5 pack)-----FatDaddy Vapes ($3.99)

There was a question as to the safety of using a brass pin for a bottom feeder. I can't say for sure if this pin is brass or copper. My guess is that it is brass, but if anyone knows for sure I would love to hear from you.
 

JimzDogz

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I have also received my 1590G Hammond box. After playing around with it a bit, I've found that the sx350 is a very snug fit across the bottom of the box. I'll have to remove some metal from the inside corners of the box to get it where I need it to go. I really like this box it's about the size of a VV Reo Grand minus the raised drip well.(10mm wider). The display is mounted on one end of the chip, which is causing me some problems. I'll be researching to see if anyone has been able to remove and relocate the display.

1590g and chipset.jpg
 
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JimzDogz

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I am also in Pensacola, I would love to do something similar, do you know how low the chip will fire? Also what made you chose this chip over the other ones?

The sx350 will regulate up and down as long as you don't upgrade it to the 60w upgrade. In the 35w setup they say it can regulate down to 1v. In the 60w set up the bottom end is 4v. With some juices and coils I like to run at between 3,5-3.8v. That is why I choose not to upgrade past 35w for my use. I don't claim to know all the chips available. But of the ones I have checked out the sx350 is the only one that allows you to regulate down below 4v., while allowing you to push 30w+.

Oh, and a big shout out for P'cola. Woop woooo
 
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JimzDogz

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Hammond2.jpg

This is the best configuration that I have found for the sx350 inside a Hammond 1590G box. It's not ideal. Because the display being at the end of the chip means it will be in the corner of the box. The DNA30 with it's smaller footprint and separated display would have been a better fit for this box. A Hammond 1590B would have been a better choice for the sx350. I still plan to give it a go with this box and if the results aren't up to snuff, I'll get the bigger box.
I ordered a burring bit for my Dremmel to make more room in the corners of the box. So, more waiting until it arrives.
 
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bjseggerman

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I was at Hobby Lobby today and found some parts for my project. 3 copper hollow tubes. A 4x12 sheet of copper. Some project wood. Then to Petco and got a 3 way brass adapter that I plan on cutting up to get the 3 nipples and 8 feet of tubing.

My goal is to make the box as mechanical as I can.

One question. The negative battery ground. I plan on rolling copper wire for the spring. Then using the copper plate as a lever so when I push the button it pushes down a nipple in the copper plate to the positive contact. Do I need to run wire from the negative spring to ground it on the 510?

If I could figure how to post a pic I could show what I found
 

JimzDogz

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The burring bit is here and I'm ready to give it a try.

box6.jpg
Getting in the corners is a little tricky, but doable.

box5.jpg
Not bad if I must say so. I left just enough thread for a short set screw and magnet.

box4.jpg
The chip will slid in to about 1mm of the bottom now.

box3.jpg
I have gained enough height inside the box to construct a shelf. The shelf will separate the mod into 2 compartments. With that step complete it's on to the next step with greater confidence.
 

JimzDogz

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I'm on a roll tonite. I decided to make the window for my display screen.

Box10.jpg

The layout is 1/8" from the outside bottom and side edges. From there I measured over 15mm to get the last corner. That is a little smaller than the screen so I will have room to work the edges.

Box8.jpg

Box9.jpg

I used a cutting wheel to score along my layout. I drilled a couple of pilot holes to get my bearings, but didn't really need them. The diameter of my cutting disc is too large to allow me to cut through all the way, without getting outside my lines.
Box12.jpg

After scoring the layout as deep as possible, I used a screw driver to pop out the blank. Those pilot holes came in handy after all.


Box13.jpg

I have the rough opening done. Now for a trip to the hardware store to get myself a small file to do some finishing work.

(Tip) I could have used a sharp wood chisel to finish cutting through the box. Since I didn't have one handy I used the screw driver and tapped it through. Then just gently pried out the material in the middle.
 
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JimzDogz

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I've decided to use this switch for my fire button. It looks a lot like the one use on the Billit Box. I found them on Ebay.

Tactile Push Button Switch Metal Guide High Quality X2 | eBay

View attachment 367476

Well after a little wait, I received these switches. Firstly I have to say these are well made and clicky. But the disappointing part is they are very short. I'm talking the button only protrudes about 1-1.5mm it's almost flush. As a result I'll need to make an extension and glue it to the button. It looks like another opportunity to be creative.
 

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