Built A Puck

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ut1205

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I finally stopped by Radio Shack yesterday and picked up two battery boxes and a switch to build a Puck. I had everything else I needed. I had an Ego type battery go bad about a month ago so I used part of the tube and the 510/Ego cap.

Everything went well, it looks good, and operates just the way it is suppose to, however, 4.8 volts is too many volts for my Evods and CE4's. I went back and re-engineered the battery box where it only used 3 batteries (3.6 volts) and it worked OK but not really enough volts. I never picked up on "dripping" so I have about 15 Evods (some genuine but most are knockoffs) and about 15 CE4's that I am using. They range anywhere from 1.8 ohms to 2.8 ohms. I have a Vision Spinner but I normally just use a standard Ego battery and all the clearo's are acceptable. I think I need to be in the 3.7 to 4 volt range.

The only way I know to change it is with a VV circuit board that cost more than the Puck cost. I considered a .4 ohm power resistor to drop the 4.8 volts to a lower level but with shipping it cost about $12.00.

I changed it back to 4.8 volts and am just taking shorter "puffs" so the coil doesn't heat up so much. I wrap my own Evod coils and normally wrap to 2.0 ohms (4 wraps around 3mm) so I thought if I wrapped one at at 3+ ohms I could bring the watts down. Six wraps only gave me 2.8 ohms. Do I need a thicker or thinner wire to get over 3 ohms without an excessive number of wraps?

Oh well, it does work and it entertained me during this rainy weekend.
 

Big Mac

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Howdy,

Maybe I need to re-read your post, cause I'm not sure what you're asking here. My first build was a PUCK
image.jpg
And I used, and still use, 1.8 carto tanks, my 32g kanthal with cotton thread vivi novas also 1.8, and just about anything else that comes along.

Are you having a problem.....you saying it's getting too hot? I haven't done evods, so I can't speak tot them directly, but the others I mentioned work just great.

Mac
 

edyle

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Oct 23, 2013
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I finally stopped by Radio Shack yesterday and picked up two battery boxes and a switch to build a Puck. I had everything else I needed. I had an Ego type battery go bad about a month ago so I used part of the tube and the 510/Ego cap.

Everything went well, it looks good, and operates just the way it is suppose to, however, 4.8 volts is too many volts for my Evods and CE4's. I went back and re-engineered the battery box where it only used 3 batteries (3.6 volts) and it worked OK but not really enough volts. I never picked up on "dripping" so I have about 15 Evods (some genuine but most are knockoffs) and about 15 CE4's that I am using. They range anywhere from 1.8 ohms to 2.8 ohms. I have a Vision Spinner but I normally just use a standard Ego battery and all the clearo's are acceptable. I think I need to be in the 3.7 to 4 volt range.

The only way I know to change it is with a VV circuit board that cost more than the Puck cost. I considered a .4 ohm power resistor to drop the 4.8 volts to a lower level but with shipping it cost about $12.00.

I changed it back to 4.8 volts and am just taking shorter "puffs" so the coil doesn't heat up so much. I wrap my own Evod coils and normally wrap to 2.0 ohms (4 wraps around 3mm) so I thought if I wrapped one at at 3+ ohms I could bring the watts down. Six wraps only gave me 2.8 ohms. Do I need a thicker or thinner wire to get over 3 ohms without an excessive number of wraps?

Oh well, it does work and it entertained me during this rainy weekend.

Thinner wire will give you higher ohms.
 

ut1205

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It is working fine and I haven't changed batteries in 3 days now. What I was saying is that 4.8 volts is too high for some of my juices. Too many watts. I could build a higher ohm coil to knock the watts down but as the batteries discharged then I wouldn't have enough watts. Anyhow, it is working fine for what it is. I'm happy with it.
 
photo.jpg

Here is a simple mod I just made from Radio Shack and Fasttech parts. Very little soldering (just two wires). I'm thinking of calling it "The Rocket".

It uses 4AA NiMH batteries, a Radio Shack battery holder, a USB variable voltage pass-through from Fasttech, and a V6 RDA from Fasttech on the top. I simply cut the USB cable off close to the body and stripped the wires and soldered them on to the terminals. You must pay attention to the polarity of the connections.

I did a small amount of dremel work to have the pass-through sit a little lower into the battery box, but that's optional. The pass-through is attached to the battery holder using standard two colored, putty type epoxy. I might sand and paint the epoxy black later. It's a real easy build, a lot easier than the 4AA Puck I made earlier.

You can select four voltages 3.0/3.6/4.2/4.8V, or OFF. I usually stick to 4.8v. I'm using a single 1.8ohm coil made of flat Kanthal A-1 0.5x0.1mm wire and a cotton wick. The battery life is fantastic, and you can attach any standard atomizer of your choice.

The Fasttech parts are available here:

USB Pass-through $5.58 Variable Voltage USB Passthrough for E-Cigarette at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

RDA $7.58 V6 RDA Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - adjustable airflow hole at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 

ut1205

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The internal inside the 510/eGo thread on that is a regulator

This https://www.fasttech.com/p/1402605

Is inside this

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1382500

I just received two 1402605's in a Fasttech order yesterday. The specs on their site say that it is 3.6 volt fixed voltage with battery indicator. I don't think it is VV like the pass thru but I haven't played with it yet. I got it to repair an Ego Twist that the board went out on. Going to make it a fixed voltage battery
 
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