Burnt taste. Need help
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Goodness, KenKen - at 7 watts, you shouldn't have a problem! A couple of things (probably all intuitively obvious). Is this a first time thing (I.e., a new coil)? Did you prime the coil? Sounds like either the coil is bad (past it's prime and gunky, or just a dud), or the coil isn't getting juice ...
How long have you been using the coil?
Try taking a sharp draw (or two) on your drip tip (without engaging your battery). This will pull more eliquid into the coil so that it will be available when you press the battery button and take a draw.
The PG/VG ratio of your eliquid also comes into play, as VG is thicker than PG . If you use high VG try adding a few drops of distilled water to your tank to thin out the eliquid.
Try taking a sharp draw (or two) on your drip tip (without engaging your battery). This will pull more eliquid into the coil so that it will be available when you press the battery button and take a draw.
The PG/VG ratio of your eliquid also comes into play, as VG is thicker than PG . If you use high VG try adding a few drops of distilled water to your tank to thin out the eliquid.
Can the Hana 30 mod do downstepping?
Not sure if this is the right word. What I mean is, can it fire at a lower voltage/wattage than the actual load of the battery inside?
Some mods can't fire with less than 4.2 Volts when a fully charged battery is used.
4.2 Volt might be too much for a Protank 3. It also depends on the resistance of your coil. Which resistance do you use.
Have just had a look at the datasheet of the DNA 30 D from Evolve. It has a minimum output voltage of 4 V. This might explain the burnt taste.
Edit:
Have added the last sentence.
Not sure if this is the right word. What I mean is, can it fire at a lower voltage/wattage than the actual load of the battery inside?
Some mods can't fire with less than 4.2 Volts when a fully charged battery is used.
4.2 Volt might be too much for a Protank 3. It also depends on the resistance of your coil. Which resistance do you use.
Have just had a look at the datasheet of the DNA 30 D from Evolve. It has a minimum output voltage of 4 V. This might explain the burnt taste.
Edit:
Have added the last sentence.
Last edited:
I have a pro tank 3 also and on my istick 20 at 7 watts it will get a burnt taste i keep mine a 6 watts or lower.
Pick up a GS Air tank $9.50 way better tank than the pro tank and i have had mine up to 18 watts with no problem.
Pick up a GS Air tank $9.50 way better tank than the pro tank and i have had mine up to 18 watts with no problem.
I'm trying to get my hands on a lemo drop Rta.... It's difficult to get one in my country.
My best guess would be that the battery doesn't down regulate as was mentioned above. I run my emow's (same coil as pt3) at between 8 and 10W and up to 4.2V and it's never given me burnt taste. I had that problem when I briefly owned the iStick20, set it to like 4W and it tasted like it was pumping out 100W. Do you have any other batteries kicking around? Like a basic ego VV you could pop it on and see if it does it on another battery?
Your ProTank 3 is a dual coil clearomizer, so 7 watts is too low--try higher wattage. As it is, you're vaping a 3.5watts per coil, which is, IMHO, unvapable territory. Try 9 watts and see if things get better. You may also consider getting Kanger's airflow valve (V1, V2, or V3), if they are available where you are.
If increasing wattage won't help, maybe this guide will:
Kanger Troubleshooting 101:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.
8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
and last but not least:
10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils--I like 9-11 watts for duals. They also benefit from increased airflow.
If increasing wattage won't help, maybe this guide will:
Kanger Troubleshooting 101:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.
8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
and last but not least:
10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils--I like 9-11 watts for duals. They also benefit from increased airflow.
which coil are you using (there are three versions kicking around) and which resistance??
Me again,
with considerable respect to Katya, I am using a PT3 on an ego VV at 3.7V with a 1.8ohm dual coil - so around 7-8 watts and it is very fine. Good vapour, flavour etc and coils last a long time. If I go to next higher setting (4.2V, more like 10 watts) it gets burnt pretty quick. This is with a clear 60:40 VG
G juice! I haven't tried any lower voltage....
Definitely recommend the V3 airflow control valve!!!!
with considerable respect to Katya, I am using a PT3 on an ego VV at 3.7V with a 1.8ohm dual coil - so around 7-8 watts and it is very fine. Good vapour, flavour etc and coils last a long time. If I go to next higher setting (4.2V, more like 10 watts) it gets burnt pretty quick. This is with a clear 60:40 VG
G juice! I haven't tried any lower voltage....Definitely recommend the V3 airflow control valve!!!!
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As others have mentioned, the dna 30 doesn't down regulate / buck / step down output power below 4v (per evolve's spec sheet), meaning the minimum output is 4v. Actually the minimum output is battery voltage.
Using a fully charged battery;
4.2v / 1.5Ω = 11.76w
4v / 1.5Ω = 10.66w
No matter what the display reads in watts, because the chip isn't capable of down regulation lower than 4.2v ~ 4v you are vaping at 10.66w ~ 11.76w.
This may be too high for the delivery device wicking ability & air flow or juice flavorings & your personal taste in general.
There are many power devices that do not step down / buck / down regulate output voltage below a certain level, these devices simply cannot output the low wattage's displayed on the screen due to their minimum voltage output when combined with certain resistances.
It is always a good idea to check & understand chip set spec sheets before buying to ensure the device will be suitable for your intended use.
Sweet or dark or thick or colored juices tend to clog wicking material & gunk coils rapidly which leads to all sorts of odd off burnt or funky tastes.
Prostanks use tiny little pieces of wicking material, when used with gunky juice and/or too much power or not allowing enough time between vapes for the wicks to re saturate lead to funky off odd burnt tastes.
Using a fully charged battery;
4.2v / 1.5Ω = 11.76w
4v / 1.5Ω = 10.66w
No matter what the display reads in watts, because the chip isn't capable of down regulation lower than 4.2v ~ 4v you are vaping at 10.66w ~ 11.76w.
This may be too high for the delivery device wicking ability & air flow or juice flavorings & your personal taste in general.
There are many power devices that do not step down / buck / down regulate output voltage below a certain level, these devices simply cannot output the low wattage's displayed on the screen due to their minimum voltage output when combined with certain resistances.
It is always a good idea to check & understand chip set spec sheets before buying to ensure the device will be suitable for your intended use.
Sweet or dark or thick or colored juices tend to clog wicking material & gunk coils rapidly which leads to all sorts of odd off burnt or funky tastes.
Prostanks use tiny little pieces of wicking material, when used with gunky juice and/or too much power or not allowing enough time between vapes for the wicks to re saturate lead to funky off odd burnt tastes.
Your ProTank 3 is a dual coil clearomizer, so 7 watts is too low--try higher wattage. As it is, you're vaping a 3.5watts per coil, which is, IMHO, unvapable territory. Try 9 watts and see if things get better. You may also consider getting Kanger's airflow valve (V1, V2, or V3), if they are available where you are.
If increasing wattage won't help, maybe this guide will:
Kanger Troubleshooting 101:
If your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.
If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).
There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.
1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.
2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.
3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.
4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.
5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).
6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.
7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.
8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.
9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.
and last but not least:
10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.
Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils--I like 9-11 watts for duals. They also benefit from increased airflow.
I try pointer 8 getting better taste now. WIll try to get a RTA or a v3. Thank you very much for the info.
I think the last sentence of your reply, sums up my problem. Will a RTA/RDA solve my problem ?
Depends on how you build / set up the atty - coil diameter, wire gauge, resistance, coil to wicking material contact area, amount of & wicking material used, relation of air flow to coil location, pg/vg ratio and a few other things.
Using an rba allows you to change wicking material & dry burn coil anytime you need to, gunky juice is gunky juice so you may end up fiddling with wicking material & dry burning frequently. .
Although I have never gotten a consistently decent vape from and would not recommend any kanger delivery device some folks seem to like the subtank full size / mini or nano.
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