Burnt Taste while Vaping

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Kitz27

Full Member
Jul 21, 2015
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Hi,
I'm new to vaping, so maybe i'm just doing something wrong and completely stupid. I do not know. But here's my problem.

I've got the black and red joyetech eVic VT, and I'm using the Kanger Subtank Mini along with it. I started with using the 0.5ohm OCC head, on the Power mode at 20watts, with the voltage at 3.98V or something. It was perfectly fine and lasted for about 2 weeks.

Now, I switched to the 1.2ohm OCC head, and I've got the worst burnt taste in the world. I can't take a hit more that 11 watts and voltage at 3.69V.

I really need some help. Thanks alot.
 

vmtorres1

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Jun 15, 2015
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Well @Kitz27 this is what happens:

The resistance (ohms) that you use makes the coils get hotter when you apply power to them (Watts), having said this, the higher the resistance you have, the less power you need to get your coil hot. Therefore, a 0.5 ohm coil will need more power to heat up the juice for it to evaporate. a 1.2 ohm coil will need less power to get to the heat level needed to evaporate your juice.

Now I don't own a Kanger subtank, I use the Innokin iSub for my 0.5ohm cravings (and use ejuice that is low PG, 35% or less, at 3mgs of nicotine) for this, and I fire it at around 25 - 30watts.

I use a Kanger genitank for my higher (1.5) ohms (juice I usually use here is higher PG, about 50%, and 12mg nicotine) this I fire at 12 -14W without that burnt tast or strong hit.

Hope this helps some...
 

dcfluegel

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did you prime the 1.2 coil before you started vaping on it - and did you turn down the wattage from the start or only after burnt taste? you can frotz a coil (burn the cotton/ wicking) with too much wattage (especially if not primed), not much you can do after that besides replace the coil if it has indeed burned the cotton...
 

zoiDman

My -0^10 = Nothing at All*
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Apr 16, 2010
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Hi,
I'm new to vaping, so maybe i'm just doing something wrong and completely stupid. I do not know. But here's my problem.

I've got the black and red Joyetech eVic VT, and I'm using the Kanger Subtank Mini along with it. I started with using the 0.5ohm OCC head, on the Power mode at 20watts, with the voltage at 3.98V or something. It was perfectly fine and lasted for about 2 weeks.

Now, I switched to the 1.2ohm OCC head, and I've got the worst burnt taste in the world. I can't take a hit more that 11 watts and voltage at 3.69V.

I really need some help. Thanks alot.

The Burnt Taste is Most Often caused by not enough e-Liquid reaching the Coil. If the Cotton in an Side Holes of the OCC Head is was packed Too Tight by the Manufacture, this can cause Dry Hits and that Burnt Taste.

I simple Solution, that Usually works, is to take a Small Needle or Pin and to Gently Fluff the Cotton in the Side Holes of the OCC Head. Then to Gently push the Needle/Pin into the upper portion of the Cotton in the Side Hole. Leaving a Tiny Hole.

The concept is you are trying to make the Cotton that is Packed in the Side Holes of the OCC head looser. And make it Easier for the e-Liquid to Wick to the Coil Wire.
 
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Kitz27

Full Member
Jul 21, 2015
19
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35
Well @Kitz27 this is what happens:

The resistance (ohms) that you use makes the coils get hotter when you apply power to them (Watts), having said this, the higher the resistance you have, the less power you need to get your coil hot. Therefore, a 0.5 ohm coil will need more power to heat up the juice for it to evaporate. a 1.2 ohm coil will need less power to get to the heat level needed to evaporate your juice.

Now I don't own a Kanger subtank, I use the Innokin iSub for my 0.5ohm cravings (and use ejuice that is low PG, 35% or less, at 3mgs of nicotine) for this, and I fire it at around 25 - 30watts.

I use a Kanger genitank for my higher (1.5) ohms (juice I usually use here is higher PG, about 50%, and 12mg nicotine) this I fire at 12 -14W without that burnt tast or strong hit.

Hope this helps some...
thanks :)
 

Kitz27

Full Member
Jul 21, 2015
19
7
35
did you prime the 1.2 coil before you started vaping on it - and did you turn down the wattage from the start or only after burnt taste? you can frotz a coil (burn the cotton/ wicking) with too much wattage (especially if not primed), not much you can do after that besides replace the coil if it has indeed burned the cotton...
i didn't prime it, now i feel stupid. I reduced the wattage coz the taste wasn't right, the burnt taste came way later. But maybe the coil is already gone. I dont know
 

Kitz27

Full Member
Jul 21, 2015
19
7
35
The Burnt Taste is Most Often caused by not enough e-Liquid reaching the Coil. If the Cotton in an Side Holes of the OCC Head is was packed Too Tight by the Manufacture, this can cause Dry Hits and that Burnt Taste.

I simple Solution, that Usually works, is to take a Small Needle or Pin and to Gently Fluff the Cotton in the Side Holes of the OCC Head. Then to Gently push the Needle/Pin into the upper portion of the Cotton in the Side Hole. Leaving a Tiny Hole.

The concept is you are trying to make the Cotton that is Packed in the Side Holes of the OCC head looser. And make it Easier for the e-Liquid to Wick to the Coil Wire.
thanks i will try that
 
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dcfluegel

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i didn't prime it, now i feel stupid. I reduced the wattage coz the taste wasn't right, the burnt taste came way later. But maybe the coil is already gone. I dont know
no reason to feel stupid at all - we all had to learn this somewhere - you always want to prime the coil, generally by putting 2-4 drops of juice directly onto the cotton part of the coil after you install it, before you put tank back together (generally, i prime coil, fill tank, reassemble, then wait a couple minutes to let it wick - will also usually do a couple of 'primer pulls' - cover airflow holes with fingers and take a couple tokes WITHOUT hitting the firing button to help pull juice into wicking - you should see a couple small air bubbles come up from the holes in side of coil head)
 
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zoiDman

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i didn't prime it, now i feel stupid. I reduced the wattage coz the taste wasn't right, the burnt taste came way later. But maybe the coil is already gone. I dont know

If you Didn't Prime the OCC Head, than there is a Very Good Chance that they Cotton got burnt the 1st Time you hit the Power Button. And that OCC Head might Not be Savable.

Don't Feel Stupid. We have All done something Similar in our e-Cigarette travels. Like trying to fill a Tank but Accidently pouring the e-Liquid down the Center Tube. Or going to remove the RTA from a MOD and not Realizing that we were Unscrewing the Glass, and Not the Base.

LOL
 

AXIOM_1

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  • Jul 6, 2015
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    Well @Kitz27 this is what happens:

    The resistance (ohms) that you use makes the coils get hotter when you apply power to them (Watts), having said this, the higher the resistance you have, the less power you need to get your coil hot. Therefore, a 0.5 ohm coil will need more power to heat up the juice for it to evaporate. a 1.2 ohm coil will need less power to get to the heat level needed to evaporate your juice.

    No disrespect intended, but some of those statements are the inverse of the way it really is..... I was an electronics engineer in my younger years before becoming disabled and so I know lots about electricity/circuits ....

    Here is the way it really is -----> The heating of any type of wire is entirely due to current flow (amperage). Current flow (or electrons) flowing through a wire collide with the atomic structure of the wire, which in turn creates heat from the friction of the electrons colliding with the atomic structure of the wire. The more current flow (electrons) that you push through a wire, then the hotter that wire will become. Eventually a point will be reached when the wire will glow red hot and if enough current is pushed through the wire, then it will burn in half. Resistance (measured in ohms) is the ability for any natural substance to resist the flow of current through it. The higher a resistance that something has, the more it willl resist current traveling through it and then the less amount of electrons that it will be allowed to pass through it. Wires/coils all have a certain amount of resistance to electricity. The higher the resistance, the lower the current (electrons) will be allowed to pass through it and the cooler the wire will be.

    This is the reason why most cloud chucking sub ohm tanks have low resistance coils. It is because low resistance coils will not restrict the flow of electricity very much and so a greater amount of current will flow through them. A greater current, will of course, cause the coils to get hotter which in turn will cause more vapor to be produced.

    Lower power devices usually have higher resistance coils to restrict the flow of electricity through them. This means that they will not get nearly as hot as a low resistance coil and will therefore run fairly cool and produce less vapor.

    So if you increase the resistance of your coils then you will get less current flow and less vapor provided that you didn't change any settings. If you wanted more vapor then you would have to INCREASE (not decrease) the power applied to your coil in order to force more current flow through the higher restrictive coils. In other words, if you increase the resistance of your coils, then you must increase the voltage applied across the coils in order for the current to remain the same and not go down.

    Lots of folks get confused about the term "Volts or voltage" .......... This term is not physical electricity....... It is the measure of the "pressure" (electromotive force) used to push electrons through a wire, coil, or any other substance. The higher the pressure (volts), the more current that will be forced to go through a wire/coil no matter what the resistance is.......... In other words, you can vary the amount of electricity that travels through a coil by either varying it's resistance or by varying the voltage that is applied to the coil.

    So, if you have increased your coil resistance, then you will need to apply more Voltage to the coil if you desire the same amount of current you had before you increased the coil resistance.
     
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    PisangLaut

    Senior Member
    Jun 7, 2015
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    Friends, I think I've burnt out that coil. I think maybe the wattage was high, and I guess it burnt out. Epic fail and struggle of today.
    I have a RBA 0.5ohm coil left, which i shall try to install tomorrow. So, I'll prime it, and get it ready. At what watts should I start with?
    You can start from 15 W then take it higher until you find your sweetspot. For me, 25 W works perfectly!
     
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    TheDaughterOfTyr

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    Apr 14, 2010
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    Also keep in mind that higher VG juice will not wick as quickly as it is a bit thicker, and you'll definitely need to try the toothpick or pin trick to get it to start wicking effectively. I usually do that and then fill my tank and leave it for as long as possible.
    I have had one legit Kangertech occ horizontal coil that was just total bunk from the get go as well however... had my device set to an appropriate level and primed the coil and left it to sit for a long while and it still just wouldn't work.
    I changed it out for another coil from the same package and had no problems.
    I massively prefer the vertical coils but my local vape shop has not had them in for a little bit. Maybe this week.
     

    zoiDman

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    Friends, I think I've burnt out that coil. I think maybe the wattage was high, and I guess it burnt out. Epic fail and struggle of today.
    I have a RBA 0.5ohm coil left, which i shall try to install tomorrow. So, I'll prime it, and get it ready. At what watts should I start with?

    I think the Fundamental Rule with Any New build on a RBA or Newly installed Head is to Start Low and Slowly Increase the Watts.

    I would Start at 10W or so and Bump it up a Little at a Time. I know it seems like kinda a PITA. But until I know who well the Wicking is Doing, I'd rather get some Weak Hits that go to what I normally Vape at and suck in a Mouthful of Burnt Marshmallow fumes.
     
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