Thanks. Its not huge clouds maybe because juice is 50/50 PG VG? Usually VG is 70 in juices right? Maybe that's why not huge clouds?
Yes, the higher the VG, the more clouds it will produce. Higher power also contributes to clouds.
Thanks. Its not huge clouds maybe because juice is 50/50 PG VG? Usually VG is 70 in juices right? Maybe that's why not huge clouds?
Yes, the higher the VG, the more clouds it will produce. Higher power also contributes to clouds.
Well, if the coil was not inserted properly, he should have gotten a "no atomizer" or "atomizer short" error. He didn't report an error message on his screen.
If the coil was flooded, he should have diminished or no vapor production, which is what he says he had. He also reported liquid leakage from the bottom of the tank, another hint that the coil was flooded.
50 watts seems to me to be a pretty high wattage after coming from a low wattage, MTL pod mod. That could explain the hot vape as he is not used to sub-ohm vaping. I know I couldn't tolerate sub-ohm vaping at first; I still prefer a cooler vape with a 0.5 ohm resistance at just 20 - 30 watts.
Glad he is now getting some vapor. He lowered his wattage and its a better vape than before.
Optimistic, but I have a feeling we're going to get more questions soon.![]()
I agree. The coil can still make contact, but if such contact is not securely made (for lack of better terminology) this could generate excessive heat which he did confirm was happening at lower wattage's. The airflow adjustment was hot to the touch.
Mesh coils usually employ a very low mass which can be heavily influenced by the amount of juice that is present. When flooding my mesh atomizers, they do not get to the desired temperature and require several fires to vaporize the excessive juice. I am open to his coil was flooded but not sure if that explains the excessive heat at lower power settings.
And fully agree that a MTL Pod is worlds different than a DTL 200 watt variable wattage kit. But my understanding was the device was heating up, which is an indication of something wrong, and that his perception of heat was not from the vapor being produced. He did state there was no vapor.
But I am speculating for I do not have the device in front of me to confirm.
So finally after priming the coil. Charged the batteries fully. I took a hit at 15 watts and it was like no vapor at all, increased watts to 20 and still same. Increased to 30 and still like no vapor. Took to 55 watts and same. Like no vapor. Mod gets hot that even the drip tip became hot. The metal part beneath the regulator became so hot as well.
Your commentary here makes a lot of sense to me. My hunch from the very beginning was the coils were flooded. Your hypothesis on why makes a lot of sense to me.Trying to Mtl tank designed for Dtl causes all sorts of issues.
Dtl replaceable atomizer coil heads have much larger wicking holes in the body of the head, your flooding issues could be a result of the 50/50 liquids which are much thinner / easier to transfer into wicking material than higher % Vg liquids.
Going from a pod system to a mid to high watt cloud blower type system is going to have a learning curve & take some changes in your vaping style.
You might pick up a different delivery device/tank designed as Mtl to see if it suits your preferences better.
Thanks dear. But the coils that comes with the luxe kit are QF coils and the tank is Skrr S tank.
The recommended wattage setting range is written on each coil. I would innitially choose the lowest setting and eventually work my way up in small increments until the vapor just begins to taste burnt or is too warm, and then back down about 10 or so watts. Wattage setting has no effect on nicotine absorbtion.
- Power Range
50-80W
- Best
65-75W![]()
The wick or cotton needs to be saturated with e-liquid; like a wet slushy drink appearance. Watch the video here; its for a different tank but the principles apply for all coils and tanks.
Every review I watched on this mod says it is a fingerprint magnet. I don't see why you would need distilled water. I would use simple tap water and dry with a paper towel.
A coil needs a specific amount of applied power in order to heat it up to a temperature that is enough to vaporize your juice. Different coils require different power settings. I do not own a QF coil, but 18 to 20 watts may not be enough power.
Your juice level is perfectly fine. It is when it gets low should it be of a concern to fill. Your tank should operate just as well when filled to the brim.
Dear @Kashif a coil to work properly must be saturated but not flooded.Saturate only the cotton slowly (drop by drop) at the inner and outer part of coil(Not to the center).Install coil, fill tank with juice,open airflow and let it sit for 5 minutes to make sure cotton is fully saturated.
When you inhale you create a negative pressure into your tank which is pulling juice through the wick slots in order to feed your cotton.
Inhaling at 15,20 watt is not enough power to vaporize e-liquid(with the specific coil) meanwhile your inhales keep pulling e-liquid so the coil is starting to flood,juice is cooked,heat is all over the place but not vapor produced.Then finally when you reach at 55 watt your coil is so much flooded that even this amount of power can't vaporize your juice.
I suggest to use higher vg e-liquids with these coils (70% vg at least)
To me it sounds like you're trying to use a Mtl inhalation technique on a delivery device / tank that is designed for Dtl.
Mtl - smooth, steady, longer, light to medium inhale strength, similar to taking a normal breath, or like you would use with most low to mid watt/power or pod systems, or like you might inhale a cigarette.
Dtl - deep rapid strong usually shorter inhale technique, like exhale air from lungs & inhale hard, fast & deeply as if you're trying to refill your lungs in 2 - 5 seconds.
Similar to suck starting a small motorcycle engine using inhale lung power on the tail pipe to turn the engine. Or trying to suck marbles through a 50' garden hose.
Trying to Mtl tank designed for Dtl causes all sorts of issues.
You have to move a bunch of air through the coil head to prevent dryish (not burnt) hits and heat build up, the negative pressure caused by the inhale strength draws liquid into the wicking material in the head, the airflow through the head is the tanks cooling system.
Low vapor production, hot vapor and heating of the entire delivery device while using a power level in the lower recommended range of the head used or the heating occurring at even a much lower power range than recommended is usually from insufficient airflow.
Using a Dtl inhale but under powering the delivery device can also cause flooding, this pulls more liquid into the wicking material than is being vaporized, the excess liquid has to go somewhere, usually out the bottom through the airflow inlets.
Dtl replaceable atomizer coil heads have much larger wicking holes in the body of the head, your flooding issues could be a result of the 50/50 liquids which are much thinner / easier to transfer into wicking material than higher % Vg liquids.
Going from a pod system to a mid to high watt cloud blower type system is going to have a learning curve & take some changes in your vaping style.
You might pick up a different delivery device/tank designed as Mtl to see if it suits your preferences better.
Your commentary here makes a lot of sense to me. My hunch from the very beginning was the coils were flooded. Your hypothesis on why makes a lot of sense to me.
Examples of the best MTL tanks at the moment are:
These MTL tanks use higher ohm coils at lower wattage levels (8 - 12 watts). Not cloud chaser vapor production but still a good amount of vapor just the same (see below videos). Vapor should be cooler than a subohm tank. They also use less battery power than a subohm tank, and consume less juice than a subohm tank. Possible downside is these MTL tanks sometimes don't wick thicker juices well (high vg), but your 50/50 pg/vg juices would be ideal. Definitely worth giving one a shot in my opinion.
- Innokin Zlide
- Innokin Zenith
- Aspire Nautilus
The GT coils are compatible to those tanks. And in fact imo better than the other Vaporesso coils.
I think @Topwater Elvis hit the nail on the head. In the first picture the puff timer in the bottom right corner shows .17 sec. That's a very short draw (MTL) for a DL device but doing it repeatedly would heat up the device without producing a vapor cloud. I think @kashif is trying to use the Luxe with an MTL draw.
I bought the bronze version and that one doesn't show fingerprints at all.Also to save some extra battery life turn down the responsive vibration in the settings.
1) What kind of GT coil will suit me the most?
2) If I buy the same juice in 0 mg nicotine. Can I mix it with my same juice which is 6 mg to lower the effect of nicotine?
3) Something is not right. Even after putting 70 percent juice in tank. When I draw I had leaking where the air flow adjustment valve is.
4) This question is about priming. If I don't prime a coil but I put juice in tank and let it rest for overnight, isn't it like priming the coil itself?
If DL vaping doesn't work for you,buy a MTL tank.Please suggest me any other thing you can. I really love the appearance of this mod. Premium look and display so want to use it to my MTL approach.
You don't need to buy another mod, but you may need to buy another tank. A mod is just a battery holder with a regulator chip to control the power output to the tank. The beauty of using a variable wattage mod is you can adjust the power to suit the coil you are using. So in effect, you can use just about any regulated mod for either a MTL or DTL tank.Now, I don't want to buy another mod because I spent so much already. I can only spend more on coils. I need coils which are suited for MTL and not harsh to my throat.
GT Core Vape Coils » VaporessoSo the questions are:
1) What kind of GT coil will suit me the most? Also if I will use a GT coil in Skrr tank will that have any bad impact on performance of a GT coil or will coil work same as it would in a cascade or NRG tank? Maybe these coils are too strong for me. I need a coil which can give me good clouds and which can work on LOW AND HIGH temperatures without burning my throat. I ask for high temp because otherwise the tobacco juice feels sweet sometimes on the exhale and I am someone who can't stand a tiny bit of sweetness. Also this QF coil is like pushing vape to my lungs directly even when I want to keep it MTL. Please help me to find a GT coil which suits me.
Mixing an equal quantity of 6mg nic with 0mg nic of the same flavor will get you 3mg nic.2) If I buy the same juice in 0 mg nicotine. Can I mix it with my same juice which is 6 mg to lower the effect of nicotine?
I think a few of us came to the conclusion that it was because you were attempting to vape a very low ohm coil MTL style. I think using a higher ohm coil will produce a cooler vape that you can vape MTL.3) Something is not right. Even after putting 70 percent juice in tank. When I draw I had leaking where the air flow adjustment valve is. It doesn't happen all the time but it does happen. All reviewers confirm this tank never leaked on them.
I wouldn't advise that. Prime it the way that the video I posted on priming and breaking in a new coil for the best results. I guess some people may get away with just filling the tank with juice and let Mother Time prime the coil for your lazy behind, but you're currently having issues so do it the right way first.4) This question is about priming. If I don't prime a coil but I put juice in tank and let it rest for overnight, isn't it like priming the coil itself? Juice will saturate itself to cotton. No? Please advise.
I still think you're going to end up getting a true MTL tank to get the experience you desire.Please suggest me any other thing you can. I really love the appearance of this mod. Premium look and display so want to use it to my MTL approach.
For MTL,none.
Yes.Same amount from each liquid mix them and you'll get 3mg/ml nic juice.
Prime cotton with a few drops,screw tight enough the coil to the base,fill tank and let it rest 20 minutes.
Start at 30 watt,do DL inhales.Don't inhale hard at this low wattage or coil will flood.If from first puff you don't have enough vapor step up to 40 watt.Do one inhale see how it goes and if needed increase wattage.As vapor production increase,inhale harder.
You can do it and it doesn't require to rest more than 30 minutes.
If DL vaping doesn't work for you,buy a MTL tank.
Zenith MTL tank
You don't need to buy another mod, but you may need to buy another tank. A mod is just a battery holder with a regulator chip to control the power output to the tank. The beauty of using a variable wattage mod is you can adjust the power to suit the coil you are using. So in effect, you can use just about any regulated mod for either a MTL or DTL tank.
I think you will eventually need to get a full-fledged MTL tank, like an Innokin Zlide or Innokin Zenith designed specifically for MTL. You might be able to get "close" to a MTL experience with your SSKR tank, but its not really designed for a MTL experience. It's been designed to be a DTL sub-ohm tank. However, you have said you are uncomfortable or unable to purchase another tank (even though the Zlide is only around $20.), so you want to try to make your SSKR tank into a reasonably acceptable MTL experience in the meantime. Let us see if you can continue using your SSKR tank but use a coil which will come the closest to a MTL experience as possible.
GT Core Vape Coils » Vaporesso
GT CCELL(0.5Ω)
SS316
25-35W
The GT CCELL 0.5 ohm coil is the highest ohm coil that is compatible with the SSKR tank that Vaporasso makes. Recommended wattage range is 25-35 watts. Still a sub-ohm coil, but I think you may be able to vape this coil at 10 - 20 watts to give you more of a cooler vape and still get good flavor and vapor production. You will have to play around with your airflow on the tank to see what will work best for you. My guess, adjust it for a more restrictive flow to better mimic at MTL experience.
Coils are designed to work within a relative wattage range. I don't know of any coil that will perform perfectly for both low and high wattages. But I suspect this coil will be the best coil made by Vaporesso that comes the closest to a MTL vape.
Mixing an equal quantity of 6mg nic with 0mg nic of the same flavor will get you 3mg nic.
I think a few of us came to the conclusion that it was because you were attempting to vape a very low ohm coil MTL style. I think using a higher ohm coil will produce a cooler vape that you can vape MTL.
I wouldn't advise that. Prime it the way that the video I posted on priming and breaking in a new coil for the best results. I guess some people may get away with just filling the tank with juice and let Mother Time prime the coil for your lazy behind, but you're currently having issues so do it the right way first.
I still think you're going to end up getting a true MTL tank to get the experience you desire.
At the risk of making the confusion in terms worse.
Everything to do with vaping are matters of personal preferences, what works best for or what one to several people think is the best way to vape can be anything from a horrid vaping experience to okay to wow that works for me too.
Mtl vs Dtl is your inhalation method/style. ~ How smoothly, slow or rapidly, how hard you draw/inhale strength of vapor from the tank.
Mtl is an inhale more like you would use to smoke a cigarette. Generally draw vapor into mouth then inhale. Uses a restrictive to slightly restricted airflow. People that are beginning the transition from smoking or puff on a pipe or cigar usually find Mtl a more familiar inhalation method.
Dtl - is a hard, fast stronger inhale, using a free/open non restrictive airflow, pulling vapor from delivery device directly into your lungs. Many prefer this method, no matter if beginner or experienced, it is just what works best for them.
Use whatever method works best for you.
Power device ~ some folks call them 'mods' or power source some folks refer to them as their shape such as tube or box.
This is the part that you hold in your hand - it contains the power source/battery(s) fire and mode/adjustment buttons, display screen and has the female end of the 510 connection you thread the delivery device into.
Delivery device is the same as - tank, juice attachment, topper, clearomizer ~ it is the part you fill with liquid and draw vapor from the tip/drip tip by placing your lips on the drip tip pressing the fire button & inhaling.
They have various pieces - the male '510' threads at the very base thread into the power device, the airflow control and air chamber in the base, the chimney or tube in the center that allows air to flow through the air inlet holes up through the head picking up/mixing with the vaporized liquid which you draw from the drip tip via inhalation.
Coil(s) ~ when using a delivery device/tank that uses replaceable atomizer coil heads - some people refer to them as 'coils' some refer to them as 'heads', some refer to them as 'drop in coils' or 'coil cartridges'. All basically & functionally the same thing.
They are replaceable part that contain the coil(s) / actual heating element and wicking material in a small metal tube with holes in the body to allow liquid into the wicking material, usually but not always threaded on each end. One end attaches the the base of the tank, often the other to the chimney or top cap to make an air & liquid tight seal.
These are ready to vape right out of the package, prime, thread into base, fill tank, vape.
Most folks thoroughly prime / saturate the wicking material before use. This may take 5 drops or 20 depending on how many it takes to ensure the wicking is completely saturated.
Some people don't prime heads, some do,,, To me thoroughly priming a new/unused head is the most important step in using any delivery device. I always recommend it because since 2011 I have never once been successful with just installing a head filling a tank and letting it sit to saturate the wicking material, even if left to soak for as much as 2 days, no matter the delivery device & head used.
Use whatever method for priming, or not, that works best for you.
If the wicking material closest to / surrounding the coil gets scorched or slightly burnt it will never wick correctly.
It will give odd, off low flavor tastes, harsh or hot vapor and usually will leak because the scorched material can no long absorb liquid. More liquid is drawn in with each vape, it isn't absorbing into the wicking material so out the bottom into the airflow chamber it goes.
Scorched wicking surrounding the coil rarely gives a full blown burnt taste until you finally burn it.
All tank type delivery devices rely on o rings, seals, proper alignment & tightness to function correctly.
Any missing, nicked, torn or damaged o ring or seal, any misalignment in the various threaded parts, any dirt or debris in the sealing areas will cause the tank to have all sorts of problems.
Almost every problem imaginable - gurgling, flooding, liquid in mouth, leaking, dry or burnt hits, low flavor, intermittent vapor production the list goes on..
There are delivery devices / tanks that are designed for Dtl and those designed for Mtl, generally speaking the two types do not cross over to doing both well, or even so so, usually one or the other, there are a few limited exceptions.
The delivery device / tank you're using is not one of the limited few exceptions.
Your power device uses a 510 connector as the attachment point and electrical contact as does most of the delivery devices available.
If the tank you have isn't working out for your preferred vaping style you'll have to buy & try another tank. Just the tank and a box of replacement heads, not the whole 'kit'.
Heat is a term usually used in temperature controlled vaping method, You set the maximum temperature you want the coil to rise to in the appropriate tc mode for the wire type you're using and your personal preferences to control coil temp.
Example 400f or 204c.
Power setting or number of watts you chose & set to send to the delivery device.
Example 20w or 40w
If you want to blow big cloudz, be able to fog out a room in a few hits, you will have to learn how and change your vaping methods to accomplish this. You / your lungs have to be able to intake/inhale the amount of vapor you want to exhale.
Vapor doesn't magically appear or increase in volume in your lungs.
Bottom line, if your preferred method is Mtl, you have the wrong delivery device/tank, nothing you can do to force it to become a good Mtl tank. The various heads compatible may make a slight difference but it will never be even a decent Mtl tank.
The Zenith 'tank' would be a very good choice for a Mtl preference.
If your main concern is blowing cloudz, you have a good tank, you'll have to keep at it experimenting until you learn to use it.
Probably be a good idea to disassemble, clean & dry everything, airflow chamber, chimney, 510 connection points, all threading - ensure all o rings & seals are intact & in place, thoroughly prime a new/unused head until fully saturated, install head into base, fill tank, let sit a few minutes.
Adjust power / watts to around 10w under the lowest recommended range for the head used, take a vape or three, gradually over the first half to full tank raise power a couple watts at a time.
Don't blast the new head recommended to be used at 40w - 60w with 60w for at least the first half tank.
Holy wall of text Batman....
If you feel the QF coil is harsh, I would agree with the others and sort out a proper MTL tank. Trying to achieve an MTL experience with a DTL tank can be a challenge.
The C-Cell coils can be used below their recommended range. But under 20 watts I feel the vape is anemic – but that is my perception. YMMV! Just to note, the C-Cell is a metal coil that heats a Ceramic heating element. There is some controversy over ceramic coils in fear you may inhale ceramic particles. I was a huge advocate of C-Cell coils until I found white dust in one of their blister packs. Could have been a 1 off or perhaps it wasn’t ceramic dust at all. But I am bringing this to your attention for you to assess your own risks. There are many who enjoy the C-Cell coil and just as equal who would rather not use them for the reasons above.
The goal with priming a coil as displayed in the video is to ensure the inside of the cotton that is in contact with the coil is saturated. This is to mitigate a dry burns when you first fire the coil. Once the cotton wick is burnt, it will always give that burnt taste (at least that is what I have found). Letting it sit for a prolong period of time can achieve full saturation, BUT… there maybe that off chance it does not. It depends how tightly packed the cotton is which we will never know. As Bad and Elvis mentioned, priming is preferred practice.
There are no sure guarantees with vaping. I started with MTL but felt it did not give me the needed satisfaction to quit smoking, despite the action of MTL more closely mimics that of smoking a cigarette. The goal is to not necessarily mimic smoking, although that may be successful, but to find something that will satisfy you enough to keep you off the cigarettes permanently! Unfortunately, this could involve a little trial and error which can come at a cost. Don’t give up and keep an open mind.
1) There is nothing wrong with using a high power 'mod'. It will work with any delivery device you chose to use now or in the future. It uses the standard 510 connection. Actually it can be a good idea for people that prefer low power/watt vaping due to increased battery life.
The difference between a power device/mod and a pod system is as different as driving a comfortable car or riding a Donkey for transportation on a long distance trip.
Nicotine is a small part of the differences between vaping & smoking satisfaction. It is the other chemicals & compounds added into cigarette tobacco that is responsible for most of the satisfaction feeling and causes most of the withdraw & cravings when you attempt to quit smoking.
2) No reason to be sad or second guess, as above your power device / mod will function with almost all types of tanks & Ω ranges coils.
Almost all tanks use the 510 connection as does your 'mod'.
No way to predict what your vaping preference will be in the future, at some point you may find use for all of the features, modes & power available.
3) Hard to give a definitive answer, the "throat burn" you are experiencing could have a wide variety of meanings and causes.
Might be a language difference thing, many have been covered in previous responses. From your statements & questions it is hard for me to gather what you actually mean by it or what you've tried to do to remedy the issues.
A) If you didn't thoroughly prime the new/unused coil head before pressing the fire button the very first time I'd guess the wicking material is scorched which can give hot, harsh low flavor vapor and leaking.
Nothing you can do but prime a new head and start off at a low power setting & try again.
B) Pg/Vg ratio - high Pg (50% or above) does slightly increase throat hit, some flavorings are just naturally more harsh.
I keep various free base nicotine strength 50pg/50vg liquids on hand, might be just me, I see no real difference in throat hit or harshness between 3mg/ml and 14mg/ml no matter the 'tank', Ω or power used.
Using the higher mg/ml liquids, I do feel the nicotine effects much more using the higher nic liquids and it is much easier & faster to feel the beginnings of nic sick.
Everyone is different.
4) The nautilus2 is a tank I never really liked, many folks do like them, you might love it, yes it will work on your power device/mod, it uses the standard 510 connection. As will any tank with a 510 connection, which is almost all available.
The aspire nautilus (mini or full size) is a good Mtl tank, the 1.8Ω BVC heads work very well, they also need to be thoroughly primed before use.
The aspire nautilus BVC heads fit in many different tanks, most often found in .7Ω, 1.6Ω, 1.8Ω - all work well in different power ranges.
I like the 1.8Ω head best, very close 2nd the .7Ω. they need to be thoroughly primed before use.
Which Ω head you will like best is impossible to say, another personal preference.
There are dozens of good Mtl tanks available, 99% use the standard 510 connection as does your 'mod', all can be purchased by themselves and have replacement heads available.
Your power device/mod has adjustable power output for very good reason, to decrease or increase power output to find each individuals 'sweet spot' using a very wide variety of delivery devices, resistance ranges and personal preferences.
Vaping and smoking are very different, many folks find it still takes a great deal of willpower & grit to transition from smoking to vaping. Vaping isn't a magic bullet that takes away all desire & craving to smoke.
The main difference between a pod mod and a regulated power mod is with the regulated power mod you can adjust the power output to whatever the tank/coil requires or what type of vaping experience you individually require for satisfaction. You can't do that with a pod mod to the best of my knowledge.This whole pod system and mod system is confusing. Even when I thought I understand everything I still don't understand it.
According to my thinking a mod at 12 watts gives me same performance as a pod system which runs on 12 watts. Please correct me if I am wrong. Or if still mod system will give me more good flavour and nicotine even when the watts are same for them?