Can’t get profile to TC

[bombastinator]

So I cut up some 200 SS mesh I had lying about from the old days of SS wicks and threw it in my profile to see what would happen. The answer was “kinda bad things”. TC basically wasn’t working at all. Terrible spot overheating. I CAN make it work with replay though.

I’m beginning to see why wotofo will only sell kanthal, and will only sell prefab plates. These things do not like variances much.

Am I missing something or is this a standard issue?

Currently I’ve got the thing going pretty well with replay set at a whole 14w on .18 ohm. batteries should last a while anyway

Is this just how it is?

 

[Mordacai]

@bombastinator, could the issue be being caused by the mod seeing the mesh as a complex coil with surface oxidation causing resistance changes throughout it?

Just trying to think what perforated metal sheet is called, as I'm thinking that may well work over mesh.

Anyway, hope that the experiment goes well.

 

[Doffy]

Apparently, you want 80 or less. 200 is way too high.

VV sell spools of 100 almost the right size.

 

[bombastinator]

@bombastinator, could the issue be being caused by the mod seeing the mesh as a complex coil with surface oxidation causing resistance changes throughout it?

Just trying to think what perforated metal sheet is called, as I'm thinking that may well work over mesh.

Anyway, hope that the experiment goes well.

I don’t know how TC programs “see” at all though. They both seem to be called mesh, as far as I can tell, which is an issue because they’re clearly not the same stuff. I’ve got a few sheets left, though they’re all kanthal and SS is no longer offered for sale at all as far as I can find. The stuff isn’t a commodity item though, which in my view sort of turns it into a flat coil cartridge. When I bought the stuff I got it came in at around 50¢ a square, which is flatly insane for a thumbnail size metal sheet so other stuff is going to get used. I sort of have an attitude about things like this. I wouldn’t even buy a catgenie until I had a catgenius in hand for example (automatic catbox stuff. Nothing to do with vaping, just an example)

 

[bombastinator]

Apparently, you want 80 or less. 200 is way too high.

VV sell spools of 100 almost the right size.

sounds like its time to hit eBay for some 75 SS mesh then

 

[Letitia]

Over on elr they are really loving VandyVape ss 200 mesh for tc in both the profile rda and unity rta.

 

[Spydro]

I don't run any of my TC mods in TC, so no help there.

Early into the Profile RDA's I cut to fit SS150 and SS400 mesh that was tried in some of them. Both mesh grades worked OK, but wasn't worth the extra bother to me.

So I just use the .13Ω KA1 strips on my 21700 regulated squonk & dual para 18650 batt mech squonk mods that run Profile RDA's, and in the Profile RTA's being ran on TC mods..... and the .18Ω KA1 strips in my Profile RDA's on my 18650 mech squonk mods.

 

[bombastinator]

sounds like its time to hit eBay for some 75 SS mesh then

Argh. This is confusing me so hard. OK this is how I understand how mesh is measured:

The “number” is the size in microns of the largest object that can pass through the mesh.
This means 200 is finer weave than 400. 75 is going to be crazy crazy small double Dutch weave capable of sifting extremely find dust.

There is a different system where the raw size of the opening mod measured. This is usually a fraction measured in inches. In that one 400 mesh is .015. Same stuff different system.

Mesh numbers do NOT measure thickness, count, or type of wires used. Or the weave (straight, Dutch, or double Dutch)

I suspect vapers care most about these last 3 qualitie myself.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

The device sees nothing but resistance, so what does your resistance tell you? Plot your live Ohms while using wattage mode at your preferred power output while you are vaping.

Example: Vandy Vape 200 SS316 Mesh, 0.183 cold ohms, at 40 watts while I am vaping (this is important!) only increases in resistance by 0.024 ohms. So using a TCR value of 0.00088 and a room temp of 23°C, the temperature of the mesh is approx. 172°C. If that is hot enough for you then it will give you a temperature to work with. But you are challenged by the low increase in resistance. The higher the increase, the more accurate TC will work.

I have not tried many different mesh types. I find the Vandy Vape mesh to be too flimsy, difficult to work with and it deforms too easy, even under heat, which promotes hot spots that leads to dry burns. I feel its mass is way too low which gives an inconsistent vape due to how much influence both air and juice saturation has on it. The Kanthal is more durable, holds it’s form and provides a more consistent heat due to its higher mass.

Mesh numbers…

The number represents how many openings (holes) are within 1 square inch. The higher the number, the more holes per square inch and the smaller the hole.

 

[bombastinator]

The device sees nothing but resistance, so what does your resistance tell you? Plot your live Ohms while using wattage mode at your preferred power output while you are vaping.

Example: Vandy Vape 200 SS316 Mesh, 0.183 cold ohms, at 40 watts while I am vaping (this is important!) only increases in resistance by 0.024 ohms. So using a TCR value of 0.00088 and a room temp of 23°C, the temperature of the mesh is approx. 172°C. If that is hot enough for you then it will give you a temperature to work with. But you are challenged by the low increase in resistance. The higher the increase, the more accurate TC will work.

I have not tried many different mesh types. I find the Vandy Vape mesh to be too flimsy, difficult to work with and it deforms too easy, even under heat, which promotes hot spots that leads to dry burns. I feel its mass is way too low which gives an inconsistent vape due to how much influence both air and juice saturation has on it. The Kanthal is more durable, holds it’s form and provides a more consistent heat due to its higher mass.

Mesh numbers…

The number represents how many openings (holes) are within 1 square inch. The higher the number, the more holes per square inch and the smaller the hole.


View attachment 812971

Ok. To test my understanding by cranking it through my rickety brain and seeing what pops out:

So there is a third system called US Mesh, which counts number of holes per inch, and therefore gets wirecount and derives hole size, the only disadvantage being that it’s english not metric. It assumes straight rather than Dutch or double Dutch mesh, and doesn’t touch wire size.
Correct/incorrect/somewhat correct?

 

[Punk In Drublic]

Ok. To test my understanding by cranking it through my rickety brain and seeing what pops out:

So there is a third system called US Mesh, which counts number of holes per inch, and therefore gets wirecount and derives hole size, the only disadvantage being that it’s english not metric. It assumes straight rather than Dutch or double Dutch mesh, and doesn’t touch wire size.
Correct/incorrect/somewhat correct?

I have no idea. I know the numbers in which Vandy Vape uses correlates with the above chart. If there are other means of measuring mesh hole count, I do not know of them. It is not something I devote time toward. Regardless, I have no idea how the numbers will effect how TC functions, which relies on a increase in resistance by a workable value. If a 100 mesh has more mass than a 200 mesh (which I do not know), then I could see how it may retain more heat, thus a greater increase in resistance allowing for a more accurate TC.

 

[tdman77]

I have been using VV 150 mesh in TC and it has been working for me. I could be your mod. I'm using a Drone DNA 250C with no problems. The size of the mesh does make a big difference. With the 200 mesh I was getting some dark spots on the mesh but the cotton was never burnt in those areas. I have been looking for some mesh under 100 but haven't found any that are food grade.

 

[Mordacai]

I think that one of the biggest problems with mesh isn't the hole size or holes per inch, it's the size of the wire used. As when hole size decreases, wire gauge seems to decrease and you end up using thicker wire.

 

[madstabber]

I never had much luck in TC getting a consistent vape. It would be pretty good then something would change and I had to fiddle again so I just went back to watts. With mesh hole size I did notice when I used 400 I believe it was the holes were so small it essentially clogged up with black residue and it effected the vape. It took a little while for this to happen but still... I think the 100 or 150 mesh would be best with bigger holes so juice will flow better thru the mesh and have less tendency to clog up. That’s my two cents I thought I’d add in case someone finds it helpful.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I think that one of the biggest problems with mesh isn't the hole size or holes per inch, it's the size of the wire used. As when hole size decreases, wire gauge seems to decrease and you end up using thicker wire.

The 200 SS mesh I currently have has the equivalent thickness as 40awg wire. So you insinuating that 150 SS mesh would be even thinner?

And not all mesh is made from weaving wire. The Wotofo and OFRF mesh are plates of metal that I will assume are punched or possibly cut out. Although both being Kanthal, the Wotofo mesh has less mass than the OFRF, both are the same thickness. The OFRF, due to its higher mass, is able to handle more power. The OFRF has a higher hole count.

 

[Mordacai]

I think that one of the biggest problems with mesh isn't the hole size or holes per inch, it's the size of the wire used. As when hole size decreases, wire gauge seems to decrease and you end up using thicker wire.

Amendment. Meant to put hole size increases, damned autocorrect.

But as holes per inch decreases, so does wire gauge.

 

[Coolsiggy]

I have been using 150 and 200 SS mesh on my Profile RDA on my VV 90 Pulse, Smok X-Priv and topside without any issues. Although VV refer to the mesh as wire the construction does appear to be SS etched sheet...not woven wire. Etched sheet should be able to hold a repeatable resistance curve with temperature.

 

[Punk In Drublic]

I have been using 150 and 200 SS mesh on my Profile RDA on my VV 90 Pulse, Smok X-Priv and topside without any issues. Although VV refer to the mesh as wire the construction does appear to be SS etched sheet...not woven wire. Etched sheet should be able to hold a repeatable resistance curve with temperature.

It’s definitely woven. I can pull individual strands of wire away from the 200 mesh.

 

[Coolsiggy]

It’s definitely woven. I can pull individual strands of wire away from the 200 mesh.

Then I suspect that the Temp/resistance curve could vary if ever so slightly as the mesh is used...age. Clean the profile well before coil replacement with firm clampinp.

 

[Coolsiggy]

I guess with woven mesh SS wire resistance wise series/parallel circuits within the mesh is more then possible....resistance values would jump a bit, make for a interesting test?