Can Anyone Explain What Different Ohms Do To Affect The Vape Experience Once And For All?

[Bigflyrodder]

I tinker with my toppers with different wraps and still trying to find the "rule of thumb" as it pertains to various ohms levels. I have a pretty good understanding in general but, as an example, what is the difference in experience if you wrap dual coils that come out to 1.5/1.0/.5/.25 in an rda? On most of my RDAs I like my duals to run at around .5 but have found that with my KFL+ and my RBAs I like to be 1.0-1.2. Bottom coil tanks I tend to like 1.5-1.8 but this is really more about RDAs I guess.

Teach me oh wise ones... (perfect opp for Baditude to walk in, lay it down, drop the mic and walk off stage as usual...lol)

 

[WattWick]

Not entirely what you're after, but you might find this an interesting read

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

 

[Bigflyrodder]

Very good read, thank you! It doesn indeed answer some of my questions.

 

[hazarada]

Atty resistance and battery voltage define the power that goes into the atty.
Power in the atty and the heat spreading properties of the atty define the temperature and its variations + affected area.
Temperature, its variation and affected area define the vapor produced.
Vapor produced defines the vape experience!

Out of all the things thrown into the pile, the resistance of he atty is one of the least important ones. You could get the exact same vape out of 1 ohm or 100 ohms depending on atty construction. The reason its settled around 1-2 ohms is because of the voltage of most widely used power source - li-ion @ ~3.7v.

 

[Bigflyrodder]

Completely understand and makes sense technically, What I am wondering is along these lines: what is the difference experience wise with single or dual coil at .25/.5/1.0/1.5 etc based on the same RDA, same coil position, same airflow, same juice, etc.? More flavor? More vapor? More throat hit? etc.

 

[hazarada]

I'm too lazy for RDA's but for my ss mesh builds its pretty simple - the more metal the higher the power cap, the more metal the more chance for hotspot. I try and find a happy medium. For RDA's i'd imagine just more metal = win.

 

[Bigflyrodder]

LOL, true enough. Coverage is a big piece of the puzzle for sure.

 

[UncleChuck]

Completely understand and makes sense technically, What I am wondering is along these lines: what is the difference experience wise with single or dual coil at .25/.5/1.0/1.5 etc based on the same RDA, same coil position, same airflow, same juice, etc.? More flavor? More vapor? More throat hit? etc.

The reason there isn't any accurate overall rule of thumb for resistance is because it's only one variable among many that change the vape. I can build 10 different 1.5 ohm coils that all perform wildly different. Some have more vapor, some have more TH, some have more flavor, some have more heat depending on those other variables.

Now, if you freeze all the other variables and stick with the same wick, same wire, same coil diameter, same wrap style (compressed vs. spaced) and same air hole size you can start to come up with some generic rules. When you lower the resistance, your coil will heat up faster, the vape will be warmer, flavor can change in quality or quantity, and you will usually get more vapor. Instances where you will not see more vapor by lowering resistance include having inadequate airflow or wicking.

I know everyone is looking for something easy like "if you do X, then Y happens" but with vaping a more accurate representation would be "if you do X, then Y happens, unless you do Z, or if you started out with B, or if your R is a P, etc etc etc" Easy (and accurate) vaping rules simply do not exist. Except for buying quality batteries, that is

 

[SkvLTD]

You can't really run less than minimum power per certain battery/wire resistance, you can run more for a hotter vape / "better" evaporation if your wick can keep up. Everything else really comes down to preferences.

 

[Bigflyrodder]

Agreed, what I was getting at was what UncleChuck was pointing to. If you could freeze all of the other variables which I know you can't, what is the difference. If you could wrap absolutely identical coils, identical wicks, exact air hole placement, same juice, etc., etc., etc.,...you get the picture.

My assumption was that you would get more warmth and vapor the lower you go but I know it isn't that easy. Wasn't sure if lighter juices like X, sweeter juices like Y, bacco juices like Z...

 

[SkvLTD]

VG needs better wicking if you're gonna run it hot/do long pulls at a time, but else it's all a matter of preference. Get a VV device and play around with watts or volts and see how it affects a current setup of any kind. Everything else just translates directly.

 

[dice57]

Depends what you are firing it with. If going straight mechanical, then one has to take the ohms in consideration to get the watts one wants to vape at. Want 15 watt vape, shoot for 1 ohm build, want 30 watt vape, need a .5 ohm build. When using a regulated mod, then ohms is not so critical, and one can just focus on the mechanics of the build. I usually like less than a 1 ohm build, that way I can run them on my mechs and still get some decent watts, or run them on my high amp regulated mods and dial in that watts up to max output if everything is built right.

With devices like the DNA30, exact ohms becomes less of a concern and am able to focus on optimizing the build for the particular rba. I just like to keep the ohms low enough so that they will vape well on all my mods, but if I build one at 1.5 ohms or so, its no big deal cause can still drive it at 20 or 30 watts on my current regulated mods.

 

[Asmo6]

I tinker with my toppers with different wraps and still trying to find the "rule of thumb" as it pertains to various ohms levels. I have a pretty good understanding in general but, as an example, what is the difference in experience if you wrap dual coils that come out to 1.5/1.0/.5/.25 in an RDA? On most of my RDAs I like my duals to run at around .5 but have found that with my KFL+ and my RBAs I like to be 1.0-1.2. Bottom coil tanks I tend to like 1.5-1.8 but this is really more about RDAs I guess.

Teach me oh wise ones... (perfect opp for Baditude to walk in, lay it down, drop the mic and walk off stage as usual...lol)

Atomizer construction dictates how my coils get set up. I ran with 28G micro's (.063" ID) in everything for the longest time. Varying resistance allowed me to control heat while keeping most of the other variables constant. And like you, I found Kayfun's I needed to run a higher resistance - mainly due to heat - and the chamber on the KF's. I don't particularly love a hot vape. I also played with ID" on the coil a bit. And simply moving to a .072" ID allowed more wick and gave me a little better vapor production. (And cooled things a bit)

However on the Aqua which is similar I like even bigger ID on the coils, similar wrap but <.8 ohms. It needs to really crank and the Aqua just pounds out the flavor.

Short of a twisted 28G set up in a dripper it's the only thing I'm currently running sub ohm. (That <--- is .5 ohm) Seeing as how I can literally FEEL the radiant heat coming off the twisted 28G @ .5 ohm with the cap removed... I doubt I'd ever venture any lower. It absolutely slams with my cotton candy juice. So I use it sporadically.

There are too many variables to narrow down X resistance ='s Y. I can change coil diameter, position, construction, type of wire... distance from air hole. To just say one thing. But generally lower res coils will produce more heat in a shorter amount of time. You can run bigger wire and slow them down, have your coils cover more surface area of the wick... run a bigger ID, and more wick. (To balance it out.) And end up with the same temp vape as a higher res coil. But - more production.

Play play play. Every atomizer and taste is different. Find what you like best.