Can I get some help getting setup please?
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All good gear
35A batteries will work for any style, and should work for most people, as long as you factor in how many watts youre looking at vaping at and how many batteries are used by the mod, MTL/DL is not the deciding factor, its the CDR of the batteries (A)....
Wait, youre wondering about the price?
In Australia we pay what youre paying for both batteries for just one....
The charger two, i own one of those....cost 3 times what youre paying
You're living a blessed life with such cheap prices
#1stWorldProblems
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Yes. But note the Samsung 40T was rated by Mooch as a 25amp battery. At 35amps is OK as long as the battery temperatures are kept below 80°C. With vaping, we have no accurate way of measuring the battery temperature so best to limit your power to 75 watts or under (which is plenty enough power to vape).
And to add - “subohm” has no bearing on battery current draw with a regulated device, your power setting does. I’m currently using a 0.11 ohm coil – on a mechanical device the current draw would be ~38 amps at 4.2 volts (sans voltage drop/sag). But because I am using a regulated device at 50 watts, I am only drawing approx. 15 to 17 amps.
Below are links to Mooch’s measurements for the 40T and a blog post describing how current draw is measured with a regulated device. Just to note, Mooch used the maximum power output of a particular regulated device for his calculations. We do not need to use the max power (unless that is what you are vaping at), but the power output you wish to use. If vaping at 30 watts, the calculation for a single battery device would be
30 watts/3.2 (voltage cut off)/0.9 (device efficiency) = ~10.4 amps
Bench Re-Retest Results: Samsung 40T 35A 4000mAh 21700...amazing performer but 25A/35A
Calculating battery current draw for a regulated mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Edit: The price for the batteries are fine. Certainly cheaper than what can be found in Canada!
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I need to wrap 2 batteries and I bought the stuff to do it, is there a link here that or can someone tell me how to do it?
I usually don't have problems, but my new charger has some strong springs and they have nicked 3 batteries.
Missed this post.
First you can ignore button tops. They are rarely used with current devices and they will not work with the Jackaroo (they are too long). Button tops are mostly used in flashlights but there are some older vape devices that do require them.
Subohm just means resistance under 1 ohm. MTL users do vape at resistances under 1 ohm and DL users can vape at resistances above 1 ohm. I have in front of me an RTA with a 1 ohm coil made from 24awg Kanthal – it’s a fair size coil, requires about 50 watts and I find it to provide a very satisfying DL vape.
What is important is finding a battery that suits your needs. We use the batteries CDR rating to determine what is best for our use. The CDR rating will determine how much current can be drawn from the battery while reducing risk. With a regulated device, the current draw is dependent on your power level. The higher the power, the more current is drawn from the battery. To determine the max power a battery can handle while reducing risk, multiply the CDR rating by 3. So a Samsung 40T with a CDR of 25 amps is good for up to 75 watts. 75 watts is not crazy amounts of power, but quite significant that will cover a wide range of coils.
Just note the CDR rating does not mean you have to use that battery at it’s max. If you vape at 20 watts, then the Samsung 40T is MORE than adequate. In fact, it is less stress on the battery which would result in better longevity. If you wish to try vaping at a higher power, just remember the 40T’s limit of 75 watts
These batteries are safe to use down to 2.5 volts. Regulated devices will stop working at around 3.2 volts, so well within the safe voltage range. This is a safety feature implemented into the device. Once voltage gets to (or close to) the devices cut off limit, the device will give an error such as “Low Battery” and will not fire. To note, 3.2 volts is not set in stone. Some devices cut off at a higher voltage, like 3.4 volts, some at a lower voltage like 2.9 volts. All are within safe limits. Do not know the exact cut off of the Jackaroo but suspect it will be around 3.2 volts
You chose the Samsung 40T in another post. These are excellent batteries which I feel will suit your needs. If you find that you enjoy vaping at higher power levels, then perhaps consider a device that houses 2 or more batteries. The more batteries, the less current draw for the same amount of power in a regulated device.
You are not the only one who has fallen victim to the charger guillotine – my changer has also hacked a few wraps. Just adopted a more “gentle” (for lack of better words) way of removing/inserting the batteries.
I also vote for the aegis solo. Excellent high quality single batt mod for not much money. For something a bit more classy but bare bones, I highly recommend the squid double barrel.
For an RTA I highly recommend the smjy doggystyle. It's very easy to build and wick, and does not leak! It's hard to not wick this properly, very friendly.
For an RTA I highly recommend the smjy doggystyle. It's very easy to build and wick, and does not leak! It's hard to not wick this properly, very friendly.
@Simplejack, most of the battery horror stories you hear are mainly about mechanical mods. They have no electronics, so no safety net whatsoever with them.
But all you need to do to help select batteries appropriate to your vaping style, is to use an ohms law calculator and input voltage (4.2V) and the resistance of the atomiser used (for example 0.8 ohms). The information you need is the current, which is your power drawn.
Here's a link to an online calculator for you.
Ohms Law Calculator
But all you need to do to help select batteries appropriate to your vaping style, is to use an ohms law calculator and input voltage (4.2V) and the resistance of the atomiser used (for example 0.8 ohms). The information you need is the current, which is your power drawn.
Here's a link to an online calculator for you.
Ohms Law Calculator
Again, resistance is not part of the equation when calculating current draw from the battery with a regulated device.
With a regulated device, resistance is handled by the regulator circuit, not the battery. The battery has no idea what the coil resistance is, it only sees what the power request is from the regulated circuit. So the equation is different. Current = Power (watts)/Battery Voltage. As battery voltage depletes, current increases to meet your power demand. This is why we use the low cut off voltage to determine the max current draw with a regulated device.
I skipped to 2:00 mark where Mooch discusses this in detail.
With a regulated device, resistance is handled by the regulator circuit, not the battery. The battery has no idea what the coil resistance is, it only sees what the power request is from the regulated circuit. So the equation is different. Current = Power (watts)/Battery Voltage. As battery voltage depletes, current increases to meet your power demand. This is why we use the low cut off voltage to determine the max current draw with a regulated device.
I skipped to 2:00 mark where Mooch discusses this in detail.
Some screenshots from Mooch's blog, as a picture says 1000 words 
This is only for Regulated mods:
This is only for Regulated mods:
Thank you everyone for the detailed clearer explanation. Makes a little more sense.
Since I'm so new to these type of devices, trying to understand all the technical details when I've never used one before is making it a bit more difficult to follow. Kinda like explaining to someone how to fly a airplane and understand all the controls and gauges when they never even seen a airplane before..
So I will use the device hopefully this weekend and go from there. Get a understanding of what is going on and how things are working, then visit this post and read what everyone has wrote again. I'll eventually fully understand it
I appreciate everyones help here and thank you.
Since I'm so new to these type of devices, trying to understand all the technical details when I've never used one before is making it a bit more difficult to follow. Kinda like explaining to someone how to fly a airplane and understand all the controls and gauges when they never even seen a airplane before..
So I will use the device hopefully this weekend and go from there. Get a understanding of what is going on and how things are working, then visit this post and read what everyone has wrote again. I'll eventually fully understand it
I appreciate everyones help here and thank you.
I'll probably eventually get another device, something I can more easily pocket carry and have no spills when sitting. But I'll save looking into that for another time in the future.
Today I ordered my batteries, Charger, Clear Wraps and storage box.
I also ordered the Black Note The 6mg Notebook.
What are some recommended settings to go for for the first vape coil build using SS316 26 or 28?
I know I'll need to adjust and will play around later, but just a good setting to start from? MTL vape with a decent cloud.
I'll probably pick up some K wire from a local vape shop if they are not too expensive, but will see.
Today I ordered my batteries, Charger, Clear Wraps and storage box.
I also ordered the Black Note The 6mg Notebook.
What are some recommended settings to go for for the first vape coil build using SS316 26 or 28?
I know I'll need to adjust and will play around later, but just a good setting to start from? MTL vape with a decent cloud.
I'll probably pick up some K wire from a local vape shop if they are not too expensive, but will see.
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