Can one adjust the center pin on an IGO-L, somehow?

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Krib

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On my new Igo-L, the center pin is basically flush with the thread housing and it doesn't make contact on my ZMAX v5 (I get a no load error). Since the ZMAX is my poor-man's multimeter, I have no way of checking for resistance / possible shorts and therefore can't use the IGO-L on my mech yet :(

I know I need to invest in a proper multimeter, but is there anything I can do in the meantime to push that center pin down by about a millimeter?

I've got the rubber gasket out on the IGO-L center post, and have tried giving it a firm wiggle with needle nose pliers along with a firm tap on the post, but nothing is moving. Prying the pin down from the bottom looks (to me) impossible, as there's an O-ring around the pin, and no space to work anything in there.

I'd try to move the pin on the ZMAX up a hair, but that seems a lot riskier to me.

Thanks in advance if anyone has ideas!
 

Seebs

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Exactly as Barton said... The IGO-Ls suffer from that a bit... If you over tighten the dripper onto a device and push the center pin flush to the threads; it may cause it to not fire. People that own Vamos will find this out when they go to test the resistance on their fresh coil and it reads 9.9Ω... It happened to me. All I did was take the screw off the center post and then push down from the top with a tiny screwdriver; it pushed the rod out a bit and all was good again.
 

Krib

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Well, I'm pretty disgusted. Barton's advice worked perfectly (and I can fire from my ZMAX), but my K100 now doesn't accept the Igo-L. With the center pin on the Igo tapped out by a hair, it won't thread. I tried tapping down the center pin in the K100, but that hasn't worked for me yet.

*Edit* Can I use a smidge of teflon tape around this crappy threading? I'm guessing not?
 
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UncleChuck

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What it looks like is that either the K100 (or the Igo, can't tell which) doesn't make a good thread connection, except at the bottoms of the threading. With the center pin flush on the Igo, it barely caught. With the pin now tapped down, that tiny thread connection isn't being made.

Ah I get what you mean now. I would think using teflon tape around the threads would reduce the conductivity of the connection, but if there is enough metal on metal contact area it should work fine.

Using a 510-510 extension could also help. You could try wrapping a thin bit of aluminum foil around the threads on the Igo, that should add some bulk to the threads and get them to bite. Just make absolutely sure that none of the foil is making contact with the center pin on the atty or the mod.
 

pdib

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The K100 is telescoping? I was wondering if it doesn't have a "floating" center pin. Screw the atty on with the K100 not completely screwed shut (so the battery is still rattling). Then gently tighten the mod around the battery. If it is a floating center pin, and there is no atty on it, the contact with the battery will push the K100's pin up way high.
 

rjp1983

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this has been a problem with the aga-t2 and igo-l. Unscrew the screw a hair and push down lightly with a screwdriver. It will push the center pin out. Test it, and if it isnt enough, unscrew another hair, and push. The reason I say to use the screw as a guide is it will eliminate the possibility of the pin going out too far. The reason its up that high is during manufacturing the screw is over tightened thus pulling the pin up. Its a very simple fix but aggrivating as s*&t until you figure it out.
 
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