Can one get adapters that add resistance?

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djeaton

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I hope I'm asking this question in the right area. I prefer higher resistance so I don't get as much of a burnt taste when I use standard resistance clearomizers. Particularly on my Vmax, I can't turn the voltage down enough to my liking. So I'm wondering if it is possible to get a 510 to Ego/510 adapter that ADDS an ohm or 1.5 ohms resistance to whatever you have screwed on top of it. Then, if I needed more power, I could just crank up the volts. Does that make sense? Or could something like this be done with a "kick" type device inserted in the battery compartment?
 

War Mouse

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:blink:

You may be the only vapor on here trying to raise resistance...Lol. Before we get all technical, which Vmax do you have. Some of them have really, REALLY, bad center pins which can go to a "shorted" state and burn up coils with the quickness. Do you have a multimeter to check to see what voltage your actually outputting to the atty? It might be the fault of your mod not your resistance.
 

dr g

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You may be the only vapor on here trying to raise resistance...Lol. Before we get all technical, which Vmax do you have. Some of them have really, REALLY, bad center pins which can go to a "shorted" state and burn up coils with the quickness. Do you have a multimeter to check to see what voltage your actually outputting to the atty? It might be the fault of your mod not your resistance.

While I don't look to *raise* resistance per se, I do make use of the resistance envelope of my devices to get maximum performance. That means higher resistance.

For the OP: No, it doesn't really make sense, although there's nothing wrong per se with working with higher resistance. If you are getting burnt taste at low power, that is an actual problem that needs to be addressed. You may have a liquid feed problem, for example.
 

djeaton

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I have one of the 2013 version of the VMAX. It's brand new. But it works exactly the same as one I picked up last week for my brother. I don't have any external multimeters to test that, but might have an electrician friend check it tomorrow. :) It would be nice to verify that when this says 3v (or whatever) that is is actually that.

But lets assume that it is right or that I'm broke and can't replace it if it is wrong. :) What can be done to/in/on the mod to tone it down a bit so that this non-smoker isn't smoking his juice? Since I can't drop the volts below 3v, and 3v is cooking hotter than I would like, can I do something on the other end to increase resistance?
 

xtwosm0kesx

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I have one of the 2013 version of the VMAX. It's brand new. But it works exactly the same as one I picked up last week for my brother. I don't have any external multimeters to test that, but might have an electrician friend check it tomorrow. :) It would be nice to verify that when this says 3v (or whatever) that is is actually that.

But lets assume that it is right or that I'm broke and can't replace it if it is wrong. :) What can be done to/in/on the mod to tone it down a bit so that this non-smoker isn't smoking his juice? Since I can't drop the volts below 3v, and 3v is cooking hotter than I would like, can I do something on the other end to increase resistance?

What resistance heads are you using?

3v is not much power, there must be something else in play, there's a reason the mod only goes down to 3v, its quite low.
 

War Mouse

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FYI if you do get it tested tomorrow, and you do have the bad pin, there are lots of youtube videos on how to fix the issue. The problem is with the rubber seat that the pin is in and it needs to be replaced. Pretty cheap fix, and even if it isn't the issue now, it will be, so I would recommend fixing it anyway.

Yes what are you actually vaping with because the next thing to look at is wicking and airflow.
 

djeaton

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What clearo are you working with?
I am primarily using 2.6 ohm Evods. They are on a 510 to Ego adapter. The VMAX is reading them as 2.7 ohms.

FYI if you do get it tested tomorrow, and you do have the bad pin, there are lots of youtube videos on how to fix the issue. The problem is with the rubber seat that the pin is in and it needs to be replaced. Pretty cheap fix, and even if it isn't the issue now, it will be, so I would recommend fixing it anyway.
I'll check in to that. Thanks.

Yes what are you actually vaping with because the next thing to look at is wicking and airflow.
I'm generally vaping a 30/70 PG/VG mix. I'd go all VG, but wanted it a bit thinner. They are using the wicks that came with the units.
 

Stosh

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The quickest, easiest way to lower the watts / heat / volts going to the coil is to pulse your fire button. Don't hold it down for your whole draw, pulse it on and off in 1/2 second intervals. Adjust the intervals until it tastes good.

I've used the technique with mods putting out 6 to 7 volts, unregulated, and 2.5 to 4.5 ohm attys and cartos.
 

djeaton

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The quickest, easiest way to lower the watts / heat / volts going to the coil is to pulse your fire button. Don't hold it down for your whole draw, pulse it on and off in 1/2 second intervals. Adjust the intervals until it tastes good.
That is what I've been doing. I can hold the button down full-vape on my Ego. With this VMAX though, my first/cheap introduction to mods, I'm having to use a real light finger. :) The trick is pulsing the fire button without entering the menu and changing things. LOL
 
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Stosh

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That is what I've been doing. I can hold the button down full-vape on my Ego. With this VMAX though, my first/cheap introduction to mods, I'm having to use a real light finger. :) The trick is pulsing the fire button without entering the menu and changing things. LOL

:laugh::laugh: Never thought of that!! My VV mods don't use the fire button for adjustments...:p
 

Technonut

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the original V max was known for overpowering the atty's. this is one of the reasons they revised them and came out with the Z max version. there may not be much you can do except use a different higher resistance topper or try to rewrap the heads with higher gauge wire for more resistance

This ^^

Make sure the RMS option is selected on your VMax.. You will have a choice between RMS and Mean. Your newer version VMax (V2) should have it. You may be surprised at the difference. :)

EDIT: It should be the 8th menu option..
 
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djeaton

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FYI if you do get it tested tomorrow, and you do have the bad pin, there are lots of youtube videos on how to fix the issue. The problem is with the rubber seat that the pin is in and it needs to be replaced. Pretty cheap fix, and even if it isn't the issue now, it will be, so I would recommend fixing it anyway.
We tried to test it. My Ego tested at 3.4v. When we tried to test the Vmax, the screen gave me the 9.9 error like there was nothing connected and the multimeter showed something like 0.4 volts. What did I/we do wrong? How can I test the output without having a tank screwed on it?

Make sure the RMS option is selected on your VMax.. You will have a choice between RMS and Mean. Your newer version VMax (V2) should have it. You may be surprised at the difference. :)

EDIT: It should be the 8th menu option..
I only have 6 options. Must be a clone and not a Smok unit. Must be a clone. :(
 

dr g

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We tried to test it. My Ego tested at 3.4v. When we tried to test the Vmax, the screen gave me the 9.9 error like there was nothing connected and the multimeter showed something like 0.4 volts. What did I/we do wrong? How can I test the output without having a tank screwed on it?

You need something like this:
Assembled Volt Indicator, Rev 2

There are some other vendors that have similar.
 

Kemosabe

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if youve got a multimeter and also a RBA, you can test the voltage by placing one lead on the positive terminal and one of the negative terminal of the RBA/RDA, then firing the device.

FYI if you do get it tested tomorrow, and you do have the bad pin, there are lots of youtube videos on how to fix the issue. The problem is with the rubber seat that the pin is in and it needs to be replaced. Pretty cheap fix, and even if it isn't the issue now, it will be, so I would recommend fixing it anyway.

Yes what are you actually vaping with because the next thing to look at is wicking and airflow.

i agree with War Mouse. the VMAX has known firing issues. they all run too hot from what ive heard; WM's explanation makes sense. at least the good news is you can fix the problem. and the resistance is not the problem.
 
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Technonut

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A regular multimeter will not read the PWM signal the Vmax or other 33Hz devices run at, neither will the one linked at MadVapes. You will need an oscilloscope, or a meter which will read RMS.

To get an idea of where you are running, here is a review. There is a language selection on the left, but you can see the charts:

Vmax-Clone UniQ UMAX V1 aka ProMaxV Prototyp » Mountain Prophet

For example, it shows the VMax set at 3.0v with 2.6 ohms actually putting out 4.65v...
 
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