Can someone please correct my understanding regarding ohms and volts with HR/LR atties for VV mods?

[Arctherus]

I am a bit confused here on many levels. I have been doing math all day on this stuff. To my understanding:
Volts=output of power
ohms=resistance
People use LR atties to simulate higher voltage vaping on higher ohm atties.
3.7 volts with a 1.5ohm atty would equal about 4.8 volts with a 2.5 ohm atty.
With the higher ohm atty set up, you are putting less strain on the atty.
So would there even need to be a point on a VV mod, to use LR attys, since you no longer need to "simulate" higher voltage vaping, and can instead get higher ohm attys?

Which follows into my next question. My only explanation is people do it for the high watts that occur when using a 1.5-1.5-2ohm on a 6 volt, which would put out 18-24 watts, which I would like to guess is a very hot vape.
If the watts output is what draws people to use LR on high voltage, then I would like to think LR attys are completely useless on a device that regulates watts instead of volts, such as the Darwin. Since the max output of watts is 12.9(Correct me if I am wrong, google can be inaccurate sometimes), with 12.9 watts on a LR atty of 1.5, that is only equlvalent to a 1.5ohm atty being used on a 4.40~ volt device.

So then what would be the point of using the darwin, if you could reach its highest obtainable wattage using a 6 volt device with a 2.8~ ohm atty?
Either the darwin is completely useless with fully customizing a vaping experience(aside from providing a ALWAYS consistent vape) or something in my head just isnt clicking right.

 

[Eddie.Willers]

Something, I fear, might not be clicking in your head.

Let's start with the definition of the 'watt' - a unit of power to describe the rate of energy conversion. In our case, from electrical energy of the battery to heat energy in the atomizer/cartomizer heating coil.

Wattage is dependent on two things - the resistance (measured in ohms) of the load (the heating coil) and the electrical energy being supplied to that load by the battery (volts).

If we control the wattage (such as with a Darwin), it does not matter what resistance heating coil we use or how much voltage the battery has. The rate of energy conversion can be held constant as long as the right electronic circuits are used to regulate the voltage.

For example, setting your Darwin to 10 watts with a 3 ohm atty will need 5.8 volts and consume 1.8 amps of current. Setting it higher (say 12 watts with 3 ohm atty) will need 6 volts at 2 amps - so your battery will run down faster.

Most VV mods control the voltage supplied to the heating coil. This means that there is less effective control of the amount of energy conversion (electricity to heat in the atty coil) although the numbers can be manipulated to get to the same point.

In essence, it's the heat of the coil we are concerned with. In this respect, the Darwin's approach is the best, most effective and, unfortunately, the most expensive.

 

[Arctherus]

I know the darwin is famous for its ability to give a consistent vape, and definitely would be the better way to regulate it. But what would be the point of LR attys? 1.5ohm on the darwin at the max 12.9, if it only simulates it being used on a 4.4~ device? But as you said, the ohms on the atty would not matter? A 2.5ohm atty would give the same experience at 10 watts as a 4.5 ohm atty at 10 watts?

Perhaps its my inability to understand the difference between controlling watts as apposed to volts, and how most people who vape measure in volts, me being one of them. The means of controlling and delivering watts on paper, just seems more limited, since you could slap a 1.5ohm atty on a 6 volt device, and use 24 watts, nearly double what the darwin can output.

 

[markfm]

The beauty of the variable mods is that they are variable while being consistent once you stop changing the setting.

I tend to vape a simple vanilla tobacco. I like a certain 2.5 ohm cartomizer. I put the eliquid in that cartomizer, put it on my VV device, and set the voltage wherever I want it throughout the day. Changing the power (or voltage in my case, which has the net result of changing the power) alters the flavor, vapor production, and throat hit. I get far finer adjustability than I would have with a fixed voltage device and fixed resistance atomizers and cartomizers. Once I'm at the right spot, I stop turning the wheel and just enjoy the vaping at that point, until later in the day when I may decide to bump it up or down a little. Throughout the course of a day I will likely vary the voltage a half dozen times, a couple hours at any given setting. Carrying a handful of different resistance cartomizers to swap on a fixed voltage device would be a real PITA, even if you could find them in steps of perhaps 0.2 ohms, compounded by many of the fixed voltage devices not having regulated output -- the voltage to the carto/atty will actually be changing a bit as the battery discharges.

Absolute high power isn't a magic goal, though my VV devices go up to 15W output (higher than Darwin or Provari). Crank the power up too far and everything goes south in terms of taste, eliquid just tastes burnt, atomizers/cartomizers break. For playing at 6V people normally need to go to higher resistance atomizers.

I'd disagree that variable voltage is somehow less effective than variable power, though I would agree that it is less expensive. My VV outputs a rock solid, stable, voltage. If I'm using the same carto or atty long enough that it has a resistance change, which is shown by a change in flavor/vapor/hit, I nudge the voltage up or down to my taste. If I swap to a different atty or carto the odds are that it isn't precisely the same resistance, and likewise it may be a different flavor of eliquid too, I dial the voltage up or down to taste.