Cana mods technical discussion

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pharzus090

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Please limit this thread to posts related to cana mods technical issues or discoveries. I basicly created this thread to post conclusive results of tests that I am doing. For those posting in other threads with questions pertaining to technical problems of these devices... send them here for answers. Feel free to post contradicting results, or your own tests, but I ask for no complaining or questions here. I want to keep this as clean as possible so others can quickly find answers to their questions.

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pharzus090

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When firing the device without an atomizer connected. The unit immediately displays "check atomizer" while the button is pressed. After releasing the button, batt life, 0.00ohms, 0.00v, and current wattage setting are all displayed on the screen until the chip enters sleep mode. Tested 5x

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pharzus090

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Watts are stored in flash memory. Volts and resistance are not. This was tested by removing the battery and replacing again after 2 minutes. Tested 5x, each time setting a different wattage level. When placing the battery back in. The previous wattage level was retained, and the volts/ohms showed 0.00 until the fire button was pressed. This indicates that voltage/resistance are dynamicly being read and displayed in realtime.

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wetwire

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Sep 10, 2011
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Addressing the 2 click from sleep problem. After having both a single click and multi-click required to fire from sleep on my clone, I decided to make sure I was fully engaging the contact with a firm steady pressure. Since I began doing this I have yet to have the device require a second click. Immediately begins to fire every time. Now this could change but in the last 12 hours or so I can confirm only a single press has been required. And I have pressed it a ton. :) This is not really optimal but it is the case. Personally I am not inconvenienced by being required to push it a second time. I have had very few devices that did not eventually have a similar problem in the last few years, so pretty minor to me.

Maybe some of you could try and see if it can be confirmed. Now what does this mean?? I can't say because it always fires normally when not asleep, that I can tell.
 

wetwire

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Not tech discussion but discussion about tech'' :) Just MHO but maybe you would see more thread traffic if you could ask the mod to change up the thread name to something more appealing or should I say less daunting. I don't know what, so why do i even mention? I would like to see an actual place to get some real input for/from the users. Just afraid the name might scare away some potential input. Just a thought and do not take it as a knock.
 

joecil

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I have noticed that mine's ohm reading is dead on to a point. For example a 1.60 ohm coil will show as 1.6 on the Modz and can be set to 10.0 watts without blinking when fired. However a 1.67 ohm coil will also show as 1.6 ohm but will blink at 10.0 watts and stops a 10.1 watts which tells me it is reading it to the nearest 100 of an ohm. This can be checked with a good ohm meter, good ohm calculator as anything below 4 volts, the ohms will blink on this clone and the DNA 30 by design even though it will fire but uses the voltage available in the battery only. That is if I'm understanding how they both operate.

So far my only real complaint with its operation is the amount of time it takes holding down the +- buttons to go from either lock/unlock modes.

I would also like to know if others can prove out my suspicion about the ohms reading being internally to the hundredth through it only to the tenth ohm on the screen.
 

wetwire

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Sep 10, 2011
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There is something funny going on with how the device determines when to shift to dump battery voltage and not regulate. I have noticed when the battery voltage drops the ability to regulate does so also. Which I thought it would. However, it is still not going as low as it should according to the math. And it is a bit of a variable, leading me to believe it calculates off of current reading from previous possibly. I really have no idea. I know its not real time.

Don't Die little thread
 

MrPlink

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There is something funny going on with how the device determines when to shift to dump battery voltage and not regulate. I have noticed when the battery voltage drops the ability to regulate does so also. Which I thought it would. However, it is still not going as low as it should according to the math. And it is a bit of a variable, leading me to believe it calculates off of current reading from previous possibly. I really have no idea. I know its not real time.

Don't Die little thread

Noted this as well today when my bat was near empty. Switched to a .7 dripper from a KF at 1.4. Dont remember the numbers exactly but the math was off and not the same as a charged cell.
 

pharzus090

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I have noticed that mine's ohm reading is dead on to a point. For example a 1.60 ohm coil will show as 1.6 on the Modz and can be set to 10.0 watts without blinking when fired. However a 1.67 ohm coil will also show as 1.6 ohm but will blink at 10.0 watts and stops a 10.1 watts which tells me it is reading it to the nearest 100 of an ohm. This can be checked with a good ohm meter, good ohm calculator as anything below 4 volts, the ohms will blink on this clone and the DNA 30 by design even though it will fire but uses the voltage available in the battery only. That is if I'm understanding how they both operate.

So far my only real complaint with its operation is the amount of time it takes holding down the +- buttons to go from either lock/unlock modes.

I would also like to know if others can prove out my suspicion about the ohms reading being internally to the hundredth through it only to the tenth ohm on the screen.

It seems as though the resistance is being read both internaly and displayed to a tenth. I mentioned it in my vid. Also the point you made about it reading a 1.67 coil to 1.6 helps strengthen that theory. But it is still just theory

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joecil

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I did another test today on battery choices. Now I've said for a while that the Efest Purple 18650 35A 2500 mAh battery outlasts the Sony VTC5 30A 2600 mAh head to head. So today I set out to time it and it does by some serious time. Now I used the following setup and vapped as I normally do and this is what I came up with. My next project is to see how long it takes to charge these two batteries. I also am planing to include the Efest Purple 20A 3100 mAh next in this as I have a feeling it will be a perfectly good battery with this mod and chip setup.

Kayfun Lite + with 1.5 ohm @ 11.5 watts, 4.2 volts
Sony VTC5 2600 mAh lasted 5 hours 45 minutes till low battery showed
Efest Purple 35A 2500 mAh lasted 6 hours and 50 minutes till low battery showed.
 

MegaVap

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10468362_243203409214029_7968544734225038937_n.jpg

Is this good or bad? Posted on Elev8 FB with no explanation.
 
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john333

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I received my orange hana modz clone from 101vapes on the 28th of May. The performance was fine until yesterday. I was doing a rebuild on a Russian 91. The ohm reading was .92 on my tester. As soon as I placed the atomizer on the mod I got a "too hot" message and I immediately detached it. I disassembled the atomizer looking for a possible problem but didn't see anything. I rechecked it and it still metered at .92. Again I attached it and got a "check atomizer" message. Since then I have attached a Cartel Stillare RDA and Trident V2 RDA, both clones, along with a Boge 2.2 ohm cartomizer. Everything gets the message "check atomizer". So, my question is do you think I melted a wire connected to the 510 connector? All the other functions on the modz seem to be working ok. TIA for any help. I sent 101 a message yesterday but have not heard back yet.
 

Fullknight

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I received my orange hana modz clone from 101vapes on the 28th of May. The performance was fine until yesterday. I was doing a rebuild on a Russian 91. The ohm reading was .92 on my tester. As soon as I placed the atomizer on the mod I got a "too hot" message and I immediately detached it. I disassembled the atomizer looking for a possible problem but didn't see anything. I rechecked it and it still metered at .92. Again I attached it and got a "check atomizer" message. Since then I have attached a Cartel Stillare RDA and Trident V2 RDA, both clones, along with a Boge 2.2 ohm cartomizer. Everything gets the message "check atomizer". So, my question is do you think I melted a wire connected to the 510 connector? All the other functions on the modz seem to be working ok. TIA for any help. I sent 101 a message yesterday but have not heard back yet.

I don't have any of the atomizers you have just Boge cartos. On my Boge cartos the center positive connection it seems are flush with the 510 threads. Does the positive pin on your atomizers extend out longer than the 510 threads?


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