ce2, ce3, and ce4 what is the difference

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zoiDman

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My guess is the "priming" fluid in CE2's isn't priming fluid but it's probably PG or VG (could possibly be a China tobacco but I've noticed no smell to it) ...

If it is, it is the Lowest Quality junk out there.

There is a Very simple test that we did when "Mystery Fluid" first appeared in CE2's.

And that is to take a New CE2 and do a quick Dry Burn to make sure that there is Nothing on the Wick/Coil. Then put a drop of Pure PG or Pure VG on the wick and hit it.

I think you will find that it tastes Nothing like what "Mystery Fluid" tastes like.
 

ChrispyCritter

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If it is, it is the Lowest Quality junk out there.

There is a Very simple test that we did when "Mystery Fluid" first appeared in CE2's.

And that is to take a New CE2 and do a quick Dry Burn to make sure that there is Nothing on the Wick/Coil. Then put a drop of Pure PG or Pure VG on the wick and hit it.

I think you will find that it tastes Nothing like what "Mystery Fluid" tastes like.

Well to really know you would have to put VG/PG on a couple and let them sit in a package for months to a year..my guess is if you did it would dry out and look a lot like the fluid on CE2's..I only see this dried on liquid around the cup and on the wicks right under the cup.

I know from putting them together a bunch of times you need something to lube the cup when putting it in the right way from the bottom while it's on the ceramic..most likely the way they do it..can't say for sure it's PG or VG (possibly even a e-liquid) but why would they use anything else really?
 

zoiDman

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...

I know from putting them together a bunch of times you need something to lube the cup when putting it in the right way from the bottom while it's on the ceramic..most likely the way they do it..can't say for sure it's PG or VG (possibly even a e-liquid) but why would they use anything else really?

Consider this Scenario.

What if the OEM MiT is trying to manufacture a CE2 Without Anything on the Wick in the First Place.

What if the "Mystery Fluid" gets there Unintentionally? A residual Contamination from the Manufacturing process.
 

ChrispyCritter

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Consider this Scenario.

What if the OEM MiT is trying to manufacture a CE2 Without Anything on the Wick in the First Place.

What if the "Mystery Fluid" gets there Unintentionally? A residual Contamination from the Manufacturing process.

At 1st that worried me when I saw the stuff like it might have been oil leftover..but after taking a couple new ones apart and putting them together I'm fairly sure the liquid is put there like I posted to lube the cup as it's slid in. The stuff that gets on the wicks is only on the outside of them pretty much and it appears to have come from the cup/side of the tube.

Maybe next time I use a new one I'll take it apart and get some pics. One of the reasons I worried about this was I saw some videos claiming that the film was anti-fungal or whatever but I don't think that's the case..also the manufacture says they don't use anything like that.

If it was leftover oil I would be able to smell it especially when I burned them off with my micro torch..also if that's the case with CE2's it's probably the case with all other atomizers/cartomizers.

If you're really worried about it take them apart and clean them good before using as it's really easy to do so with a little practice..I really like CE2's a lot as they seem to last a long time with cleaning..I have a couple or so that still work good after 6 months...

Edit: I also know these things are made in China and it's possible it is something else but I don't think it is. Heck no matter where things are made manufacturers are not always so forthcoming about stuff because a lot of people only care about profits..maybe someone should test the dried on liquid too see. In any case I really believe these are pretty safe and a lot more safe than smoking a cig...
 
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zoiDman

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The Good News is that "Mystery Fluid" in a New Genuine RS/MiT CE2's has become a Rarity.

You still get one every now and again so I tell people to Always Check a New CE2 with a Quick Dry Burn. But the Quality Control has Vastly Improved from the Rev"3" days which is a Very Good thing.

Here is a link to a picture of a CE2 Rev"3" to give you an idea of how bad some of the CE2's were being produced back then. Be sure to zoom it with your Browser.

http://www.farmerengineering.com/ECF/carto_1.jpg

Also notice that the Wick has some Black Strands of Who Know what running thru it. Bat Hair perhaps?
 

ChrispyCritter

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I don't think any of my CE2's are below Rev4 I just started using them last August.

Hard to tell without taking that apart and seeing it for myself but it could just be e-liquid/VG/PG that has got on the wick and "tanned"..when I zoomed in I can see it's not just one strand it's something on the wick..I can only speculate to what it is though without testing you can't be 100% sure.

You could try burning it off and seeing what it smells like then compare the smell to PG/VG..to me when I burned mine off I thought it smelled pretty much like like my unflavored PG I have..as I worked on cars and electronics for years I know the smell of burning oil well and I haven't smelled that on CE2's.

When I've took my CE2's apart besides the little bit of dried liquid on the cup/outside of wick they look really clean so I think they are washed really well. One thing that comes to mind is maybe the metal tubes have some leftover oil on them..I doubt this though as they are so clean otherwise.
 

zoiDman

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I don't think any of my CE2's are below Rev4 I just started using them last August.

Hard to tell without taking that apart and seeing it for myself but it could just be e-liquid/VG/PG that has got on the wick and "tanned"..when I zoomed in I can see it's not just one strand it's something on the wick..I can only speculate to what it is though without testing you can't be 100% sure.

You could try burning it off and seeing what it smells like then compare the smell to PG/VG..to me when I burned mine off I thought it smelled pretty much like like my unflavored PG I have..as I worked on cars and electronics for years I know the smell of burning oil well and I haven't smelled that on CE2's.

When I've took my CE2's apart besides the little bit of dried liquid on the cup/outside of wick they look really clean so I think they are washed really well. One thing that comes to mind is maybe the metal tubes have some leftover oil on them..I doubt this though as they are so clean otherwise.

If your buying your CE2's from someone who sells a lot of them then I'm sure you have Rev"4" CE2's. But there are sites out there who go stuck with Old Rev CE2's, RS/MiT will not buy back Old Stock, and still sell them.

Yeah, we have done the Burn Off test and the Evaporation Test and a few other Tests that I'm sure I have forgotten. Like I said, that is an Old picture is of a Rev"3".

I think I posted it in the E2 "Big Thread".

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...13951-e2-cartomizer-technical-discussion.html

Notice the date that thread was Created. They didn't weren't called CE2's back then. Becuase the Second Edition hadn't even come out yet.
 

ChrispyCritter

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Yeah I think I read that thread..I read a lot of stuff and watched a lot of videos about them before and after buying them. All the ones I have are from MadVapes and they last a long time. I have rebuilt a couple though and have used parts from dead ones to build my own atomizers for dripping.

The "C" probably is the revision where they started using a ceramic to hold the coil as I read before that they used some kind of rubber or plastic..I'm sure they learned as they made them. I see the newest ones appear to have a black cup on top of the ceramic too..I'm curious if it's made of something that is less likely to melt like the white cup does a little sometimes when it's too close to the top the coil.

MV doesn't carry them anymore though and won't say if they will for sure in the future because they say the supplier is dictating to them too much. So I will have to buy them elsewhere in the future when I run out..but that could be awhile as I still have a couple new ones and quite a few that just need to be cleaned...
 
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Traver

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I like to give a New CE2 a quick 3 second Dry Burn before I fill it.

Besides burning them it also helps to put a drop or two of juice directly on the coil to get the wick soaked before the first puff. Doing this will also let you know what they should taste like. Otherwise if you are just starting to use them you won't know if the wick is dry or you are getting a bad taste for some other reason.

I have been using CE2's for well over a year and haven't had a bad taste since the revision 3's came out. That was around October or November 2011. I use the Xl metal ones because I don't know what is being leached into the juice from the plastic. I also buy all of mine from gotVapes so can't speak about any other brands.

I also find that they only good for about five watts and for about half of a filling. Once half the juice is used up they start having trouble wicking fast enough.

The good thing about CE2's is that they last a long time and taste just like dripping if used the the right way. They also last a long time with my juices they will go through over a 100 ml's.
 

CthulhuSaves

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To be honest, I still find this whole mess to be very confusing. Is CE2/3/4 a brand or just a type, for example, and what happened to CE1? Why is bottom coil or top coil better or worse, or warmer or colder? And why no mention of center coils? I very much like the idea of long, thick wicks with no filler, but have no idea where the heating elements actually are in them.

One thing I've noticed is that filler material goes bad long before the atty itself croaks, so that's what's got me liking the idea of a no-filler container that's just got a fat wick running through it (like this one). Is that why the original MAP tanks are more expensive than the cheaper types that use cartos, because the replaceable wicks last longer and save money over buying more carto refills?
 

zoiDman

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To be honest, I still find this whole mess to be very confusing. Is CE2/3/4 a brand or just a type, for example, and what happened to CE1?...

There was no CE1. It was called an E2.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...13951-e2-cartomizer-technical-discussion.html

There isn't that much to know about all the E2,CE2,CE3,CE4, X7, stardust, Vision or what every. Here's what't Important.

Top Coil Design => Warmer, Stronger Hit. Easier to Clean.
Bottom Coil Design => Cooler, Milder Hit. Harder to Clean.

What type of Hit do you Like? Hown much Do you want to Fool with something to Clean it?
 

zoiDman

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I just bought a Ego LR atty & tank..don't know what it is...but I like the warmer hit and I don't get it with this...is it because it is LR???

LR Cartos/Attys give a Warmer Hit because they have a Lower Resistance than Regular Cartos/Attys. Just like using Higher Voltage does the Same thing.

The Warmer Hit of a CE2 verses a CE3 is because the Coil/Wick are Closer to your Mouth than on on a CE3.

If you like a Warmer Hit, you would Probably Like a CE2 over a CE3.
 

zoiDman

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zoiDman

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Thanks again...I will definitely read it, been reading everything I can lol...there is not enough time...but I greatly appreciate any help in narrowing down the list :unsure:

I hear you on the Information Overload.

Some of Us in the gotvapes sub-forum suggested that a Single Thread that Contained Tips and Tricks as well as How To Vids would help people new to the CE2.

MsBree picked up on the Idea and got the Ball Rolling.
 
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