I just cannot fathom how this is supposed to work. When I inject juice down the small holes it ends up coming out the threaded end of the cartomiser which begs the question why not just put it down the hole in the middle rather than the small holes? In fact why not just put the juice down the threaded end to save removing the plugs at the other end? I'm thinking I must surely have got something wrong but having looked at this filling mod YouTube - CE2 cartomiser mod I'm thinking his juice must surely be going down the hole in the centre so what's these small holes all about?
CE2 R4 M-series filling problem
- Thread starter Adik Ted
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- halo litecigusa vapor pro
- Status
The center hole down the middle is not for filling that is the air intake... The 2 small holes on each side are for filling...
Are u Sure your not overfilling the tank?
Have u tried removing the ring with the two small holes in it? And then filling?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes to fill the tank you inject through the small holes. The plastic needle should to be inserted in the holes far enough to get under the seal, as far as you can really. Also it's best done with the cartomizer stood battery connection end down IMO, rather than on it side.
If overfilled the seal leaks and the liquid runs through into the air intake (the centre column running down the middle) and out of the battery end.
If overfilled the seal leaks and the liquid runs through into the air intake (the centre column running down the middle) and out of the battery end.
I did as Nick suggested and removed (with some difficulty) the 3rd ring where the holes were. I take it the juice is meant to go down the side of the remaining contraption that's taking up most of the inside? That being the case Papa was right, I wasn't inserting the needle far enough down before. I started a new cartomiser (was getting a burnt taste off that previous one anyway) and this time made sure the needle was far enough down the small hole before injecting the juice. It doesn't inject easily but I managed to get around 0.7 ml in before I saw some spill into the centre hole. I'm now vaping away although I'm again detecting a slight burning taste though not as bad as the previous one. Will post comments later.
Many thanks for the help.
Many thanks for the help.
The burning taste should go with time. Some people do a quick dry burn of the carto before use - not extensive, just a few short burns. While doing this you get an odour from the wick, which is probably what you are tasting. The wick material is heat proof and won't burn, but this initial heating seems to get rid of whatever is on the surface that can give that unpleasant taste initially. This is of course easier with a manual battery.
Last edited:
Thanks Papa. I'll try that next time. So far I'm not sure about these. The draw and vapour seem a bit weak (felt stronger on the one I abandoned) and I'm put off a bit by having to have gaps to let it re-wick. It's certainly a plus not having to keep dipping though.
Very disappointed in these. I bought 5 and usage went as follows
1) A lot of spillage filling it but I must have managed to get a fair bit of it where it was supposed to go because I got about 8 hours of solid vaping with good draws, taste and throat hit. When I refilled it (again a lot of spillage) I got only a few minutes out of it before getting a burnt taste. I thought the cartomiser was done and ruined it trying to take it apart to see how it work. After starting this thread I realised I probably hadn't filled it properly.
2) Managed to get it filled after reading Nick and Papa's posts. Decent draw but ruined by burnt taste from outset.
3) Filled this one properly (no leakage) but draw and vapour were weak and again had the burnt taste.
4) Dry burnt this one as per Papa's suggestion. As I was using an automatic I blew on the led end to fire it up (some smoke did come from other end). Again filled this one properly with no leakage but got about 5 decent draws out of it before it vaped as if it was empty.
5) Tried this one without dry burn. Stuck with the burnt taste again and again draw seems weak.
If I was new to vaping I'd be back on the tobacco by now.
1) A lot of spillage filling it but I must have managed to get a fair bit of it where it was supposed to go because I got about 8 hours of solid vaping with good draws, taste and throat hit. When I refilled it (again a lot of spillage) I got only a few minutes out of it before getting a burnt taste. I thought the cartomiser was done and ruined it trying to take it apart to see how it work. After starting this thread I realised I probably hadn't filled it properly.
2) Managed to get it filled after reading Nick and Papa's posts. Decent draw but ruined by burnt taste from outset.
3) Filled this one properly (no leakage) but draw and vapour were weak and again had the burnt taste.
4) Dry burnt this one as per Papa's suggestion. As I was using an automatic I blew on the led end to fire it up (some smoke did come from other end). Again filled this one properly with no leakage but got about 5 decent draws out of it before it vaped as if it was empty.
5) Tried this one without dry burn. Stuck with the burnt taste again and again draw seems weak.
If I was new to vaping I'd be back on the tobacco by now.
FWIW, I remove all the rings out of mine and just drip down the sides to fill.
Some juices appear to be thicker than others and will gum up faster.
When production wanes, I clean then by using water heated in the micro wave. I scoop up the water holding the E2 with tweezers and scooping the water up like using a cup and letting it run out the battery end.
Do this several times and also scoop up the water and pour it back out the vaping end. Then several good shakes into the sink basin to get as much water out as possible.
Some say to let it set overnight. I am not that patient and will immediately go to dry burn. I use a 5v pt for this (this is also the same method I use for cleaning atty's).
I dry burn it until I can see the coils lighting up bright red. Unlike an atty, I can usually see a chunk of black gunked up junk stuck on the coil. I am able to eventually blow this junk off the coil with enough dry burning.
As with any of the hardware we use, some folks find it easier to work with some configurations better than others. With whatever I use, it usually took a week or two until I got the hang of keeping the items working well.
hope this can help so you can at least get some use out of the ones you have whether or not you decide to get more.
Some juices appear to be thicker than others and will gum up faster.
When production wanes, I clean then by using water heated in the micro wave. I scoop up the water holding the E2 with tweezers and scooping the water up like using a cup and letting it run out the battery end.
Do this several times and also scoop up the water and pour it back out the vaping end. Then several good shakes into the sink basin to get as much water out as possible.
Some say to let it set overnight. I am not that patient and will immediately go to dry burn. I use a 5v pt for this (this is also the same method I use for cleaning atty's).
I dry burn it until I can see the coils lighting up bright red. Unlike an atty, I can usually see a chunk of black gunked up junk stuck on the coil. I am able to eventually blow this junk off the coil with enough dry burning.
As with any of the hardware we use, some folks find it easier to work with some configurations better than others. With whatever I use, it usually took a week or two until I got the hang of keeping the items working well.
hope this can help so you can at least get some use out of the ones you have whether or not you decide to get more.
kj, I just had some success using your method with one of the duds despite going about it half-heartedly and with low expectations. I didn't find the dripping down the side particularly easy so, if I can be bothered in future, I'd probably just remove the 3 rings and inject the juice. This would be so much easier if they just had a single longer plug rather than 3 different rings.
PS The draw seems to have a bit too much air (whistling) to my liking, possibly because I've replaced ring 3 with ring 2 out of another cartomiser (for easier removal in future). This would be another thing a single longer plug might resolve.
PS The draw seems to have a bit too much air (whistling) to my liking, possibly because I've replaced ring 3 with ring 2 out of another cartomiser (for easier removal in future). This would be another thing a single longer plug might resolve.
Last edited:
You really have to work on it to get these to work properly. I will admit when I first started using these I was not impressed. But now they are my favorite... I will explain in my response to Adik Ted
1) Your filling problems probably are the same as mine. I would inject until I saw liquid pool up over the cup. That is too much. Do it just enough to come out of the hole on the other side (you will see it bubble). Personally, I took that plug completely out and replaced it with a regular inner plug from a cheap plastic tipped chinese carto so I can pop all 3 out and just fill like a regular carto. With that method I recommend an empty 510 cart on top instead of the regular plug to prevent leakage. With the cart I haven't had leaking problems. If your juice is burning quickly you should try a PG heavy mix. The juice I use is 2/3 PG 1/3 VG and it wicks just fine. Also what voltage are you using? if it is 3.7-4.2 a 2.5 ohm ce2 should be good. 4.3-5v you should use a 2.8ohm. anything higher than that get a 3.0-3.2 ohm (all available at COV).
*EDIT*
I DO NOT recommend these for higher than 6v. Trust me lol. They have to come out with at least a 3.5ohm before they can be used at 7.4v.
2) Once my ce2s develop a burnt taste (they rarely do) I always rinse with hot water, dry burn, blow the gunk off, rinse with hot water, and dry burn again. Without doing this, the ce2 will retain its burnt flavor.
3) Was this a fresh one? if so you should really use the method I mentioned in 2) prior to use (these have some weird chemical taste off the bat probably from the wick)
4) Dry burning with auto batteries will be very difficult. But you have to dry burn until coils are bright red and virtually no smoke is coming out. I recommend no higher than 3.7v to dry burn the 2.5-2.8ohm ce2s 5v for higher. And it is much easier with a manual battery (vaping is better with a manual too
). 5) Using one without a dry burn is always nasty. It is an absolute must.
Hope this helped guys!
Last edited:
I bought a box of 5 a few weeks ago and disposed of 3 when I wasn't satisfied with the results. The other 2 were still sealed in their container. Yesterday I decided to try again. I did nothing differently from what I had done before. The remaining 2 worked fine! Plenty of vapor, good flavor, no burnt taste. Go figure.
Wish you wouldn't have disposed of those... i would have taken them off your hands lol. Its possible you gave up on them too soon. Have you tried the XL ce2s? They seem to wick a little better.
Sometimes I inject instead of dripping. It is easier, find what works for you and nothing wrong with experimenting with what others stae they do, I have just noticed that most times people post that they do not have the same success others state, then after trying a few times it works
Also with the standard size E2 I will "inject .5 ml, a little down each side. With the XL I will put 1-1.5ml just to stay on the safe side.
Manytimes when it seems that vapor slacks off I will give it a minute or two to settle. Appears to me wicking can slow if you are hitting it heavy. I will also remove the DT I use in place of the end cap, then tip it a little more than 90 degrees horizontal and see if any juice starts pooling up near the edge of the cup. If I see juice I rotate the PV so that both wicks get wet. If I do not see juice pooling, or very little if any juice I refill.
I did a dry burn today and it took a good long while. Used my 5v PT and it got so hot the black label on the carto started to shrink from the heat.
During the burn I could only see two "loops" of the coil on either end glow. I just kept burning and burning, lightly blowing on it as it went along. Occassionally I'd stop and GENTLY poke at the area in the middle that was glowing but could not see defined individual ciol/wires glowing. This is because there is residue gunked up on their.
The burning heats this stuff up and turns it to ash, but it can hang on for dear life and may need help falling off. Eventually it all burned off and I could see each loop of the coil glowing very well defined and clearly when lit up.
I believe it cleaned up more from the burning than trying to scrape the crap off.
When done the coil should look white, ashen white, and you may not actually be able to see the wires when "cold".
Bear in mind that, as with attys, the carto can "pop", had it happen to a carto last week. No pure guarantees in any of the hardware we use. But I would say that only one popped out of the last 4-5 Es's I have been using.
I also forgot to add in earlier post that I blow out the atty after rinsing from both ends.
During the burn I could only see two "loops" of the coil on either end glow. I just kept burning and burning, lightly blowing on it as it went along. Occassionally I'd stop and GENTLY poke at the area in the middle that was glowing but could not see defined individual ciol/wires glowing. This is because there is residue gunked up on their.
The burning heats this stuff up and turns it to ash, but it can hang on for dear life and may need help falling off. Eventually it all burned off and I could see each loop of the coil glowing very well defined and clearly when lit up.
I believe it cleaned up more from the burning than trying to scrape the crap off.
When done the coil should look white, ashen white, and you may not actually be able to see the wires when "cold".
Bear in mind that, as with attys, the carto can "pop", had it happen to a carto last week. No pure guarantees in any of the hardware we use. But I would say that only one popped out of the last 4-5 Es's I have been using.
I also forgot to add in earlier post that I blow out the atty after rinsing from both ends.
Last edited:
I peeled the black sticker off this carto and has lots of sticky residue not. Stout paper towel or good shop rog that can be thrown away is good to use along with alcohol and a fair amount of elbow grease. But it will turn out to be a nice stainless steel carto when done.
Sorry for the multiple posts.
Sorry for the multiple posts.
Ryan, thanks for the post. Re 1, I'm not sure of the voltage but it's the M-series cartomisers I'm using with m402 batteries so I assume the ohms will be to suit M-series batteries. Dry burning by blowing on the led end (while looking at the coil in the mirror) did seem to work when I tried kj's method. I don't have any manual batteries at the moment.
kj, thanks for the additional info.
Are XL's available for the M-series? Can't say I've seen anyone advertising them. Also, are these not a bit long? Someone was saying they're the same length as an m403 battery.
kj, thanks for the additional info.
Are XL's available for the M-series? Can't say I've seen anyone advertising them. Also, are these not a bit long? Someone was saying they're the same length as an m403 battery.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
