I have a couple of these laying around. Could they be used for a mod? 3.7 volt, 900mah, very thin and light.
cell phone battery?
- Thread starter pnguin
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
FWIW, the Darwin uses a pair of flat cells similar to cell phone batts, but I don't know enough about those to offer any real input as to whether they would be any good to use or not
The voltage and mah are only part of the story when it comes to batteries. Just like when it comes to automotive/truck/marine lead acid batteries you also have to take into consideration the cold cranking amps which is essentially the battery's capacity for electron flow internal of and in between it's cells or "how big is the amp pipe"...in the case of driving a purely resistive load such as a coil in an atty you need a batt that'll drive a min. of 2A (or more) to hit that sweet spot of 8 to 12 watts.
Watts (or P for power) is calculated as V(volts) x I(amps) = P(watts)...if you limit the amps, well, do the math...
This is not to say flat cells suck (I'm sure the Darwin batts are about as cutting edge as they come) however, Cell phone batteries, by design, limit current flow to increase longevity so even though they would keep an atty "warm" for a reasonable amount of time but it'll never "vape" for ya
Watts (or P for power) is calculated as V(volts) x I(amps) = P(watts)...if you limit the amps, well, do the math...
This is not to say flat cells suck (I'm sure the Darwin batts are about as cutting edge as they come) however, Cell phone batteries, by design, limit current flow to increase longevity so even though they would keep an atty "warm" for a reasonable amount of time but it'll never "vape" for ya
This is interesting and well timed because I had recently started looking around at cell phone batteries considering making a mod with one, 'just for fun'
Ya, mAh (milliamphours) is one of those scales like kwh (kilo watt hours) the meters on our houses measure...btw, to qualify what I'm saying here...I am a licensed electrician with a year of core electronics under my belt so at the very least I'm down with the mathematical theory behind this vaping thing...
The reason why the Darwin is really the way to go (and I have no affiliation) is because it addresses watts (power)
Electricity is pure physics and the cleanest of all algebraic equations regarding variables...at least when it comes to batteries and pure resistive loads like atomizers, cartomizers, etc, anything that involves a resistive coil.
Voltage (v), current (I, for "intensity" though some physicist may disagree), R (resistance, ohms or impedance(a little higher math)) and power (measured in watts). The most common things to know are:
volts (lets go with 3.7V which is the best nominal voltage your average batt will provide in your average e-cig)
ohms (lets use your average 3 ohm atty if only to simplify the math)
so, 3.7V divided by 3 ohms is 1.23 amps (or A)...1.23A x 3.7V is 4.65 Watts (pretty low as far as atty's go, hence the low burn, low flavour, etc...)
however, 3.7V divided by 1.8 ohms (LR atty) is 2A...2A X 3.7V is 7.4 Watts (now you're talking a little bit of cooking power) however you need a battery that can put out 2A, which, as far as your average Lith-ion 3.7V batt is a fair amount of jam (a cell batt couldn't do that on it's best day which is where the cell batt idea kinda falls apart which is too bad cause we all have cell batts lyin' around))
This is why LR atty's aren't recommended for stock e-cig starter type batts...they just can't push that kind of amperage...they'll try, the math and physics force them to but at their early demise.
btw, (last point) if you add up some of the things in your house...toaster (1200 watts), big screen plazma (600 watts) blow dryer (1400 watts)...that's 3200 watts total, all plugged into 120V wall outlets...you need 26.6 amps to drive all that stuff, in Europe the outlet voltage is 240V so you only need 13+ amps to provide the same wattage...amps (big pipe) requires bigger wire, causes more stress on electrical equipment and is way more dangerous than just voltage...if you screw on an LR atty, sure you get better cook but you're stressing your batts and other electronics, as an electrician there is the old saying, watts are watts, it's always better to have a higher voltage then higher current to achieve the same wattage (which is why you'll never see factories running at 240V like our house)
The reason why the Darwin is really the way to go (and I have no affiliation) is because it addresses watts (power)
Electricity is pure physics and the cleanest of all algebraic equations regarding variables...at least when it comes to batteries and pure resistive loads like atomizers, cartomizers, etc, anything that involves a resistive coil.
Voltage (v), current (I, for "intensity" though some physicist may disagree), R (resistance, ohms or impedance(a little higher math)) and power (measured in watts). The most common things to know are:
volts (lets go with 3.7V which is the best nominal voltage your average batt will provide in your average e-cig)
ohms (lets use your average 3 ohm atty if only to simplify the math)
so, 3.7V divided by 3 ohms is 1.23 amps (or A)...1.23A x 3.7V is 4.65 Watts (pretty low as far as atty's go, hence the low burn, low flavour, etc...)
however, 3.7V divided by 1.8 ohms (LR atty) is 2A...2A X 3.7V is 7.4 Watts (now you're talking a little bit of cooking power) however you need a battery that can put out 2A, which, as far as your average Lith-ion 3.7V batt is a fair amount of jam (a cell batt couldn't do that on it's best day which is where the cell batt idea kinda falls apart which is too bad cause we all have cell batts lyin' around))
This is why LR atty's aren't recommended for stock e-cig starter type batts...they just can't push that kind of amperage...they'll try, the math and physics force them to but at their early demise.
btw, (last point) if you add up some of the things in your house...toaster (1200 watts), big screen plazma (600 watts) blow dryer (1400 watts)...that's 3200 watts total, all plugged into 120V wall outlets...you need 26.6 amps to drive all that stuff, in Europe the outlet voltage is 240V so you only need 13+ amps to provide the same wattage...amps (big pipe) requires bigger wire, causes more stress on electrical equipment and is way more dangerous than just voltage...if you screw on an LR atty, sure you get better cook but you're stressing your batts and other electronics, as an electrician there is the old saying, watts are watts, it's always better to have a higher voltage then higher current to achieve the same wattage (which is why you'll never see factories running at 240V like our house)
I like to think of my batteries in terms of WATT HOURS.
Just like the electric company.
How many Watt Hours is in your wallet, uh, I mean, in your battery
Just like the electric company.
How many Watt Hours is in your wallet, uh, I mean, in your battery
Tenergy makes some Lithium Polymer 10C and 15C 3.7 volt cells with about 800 to 900mah.
A pair of these would be really close to the battery power in an expensive mod.
A pair of these would be really close to the battery power in an expensive mod.
Thanks for all the info. I calculate that a 2.5 ohm carto at 3.7V, 1.48 amps will draw 5.48 watts. I can't find any info on power consumption for my cell phone (LG cu720) but it must be only a fraction of that, and the battery only lasts two days. I am going to assume it is not suitable for modding. I think the Darwins use litium polymer batteries. Too bad as you say Quigsworth we all probably have a bunch of these laying around, would have been nice to get some use from them.
The voltage, mah rating are misleading. It's the "drain rate" that allows us to vape.
Your cell phone cell probably has a 2C drain rating.
The cell in the previous pic has about the SAME configuration as the Darwin (but has two of those).
But, those are 10C to 15C drain rate 800 to 900 mah cells.
10C drain at 800mah is an 8 amp rating.
Your cell phone cell probably has a 2C drain rating.
The cell in the previous pic has about the SAME configuration as the Darwin (but has two of those).
But, those are 10C to 15C drain rate 800 to 900 mah cells.
10C drain at 800mah is an 8 amp rating.
Last edited:
So two of these plus the protection circuit would probably be good? Plus a variable voltage circuit.
Last edited:
Ya nailed it Rocketman, mAh rating is useful in determining how much "work" a battery will ultimately do but vaping isn't about finessing a milliamp here and a milliamp there, it's all about putting it in gear and flooring it (screw the gas mileage)...it's the classic camp shower analogy...take 2 buckets each containing 3.7 gallons of water and hang them from a tree branch. 1 bucket has it's bottom drilled to accept a 1/2" garden hose, the other a 2" fire hose...camping (like vaping) is serious business, which bucket do you want to use (especially if someone else is filling the bucket
Pnguin, are you sure of the status of these batteries? are they about the same age, had the same use?...there's enough energy in these batteries to cause some bad things to happen...just as a battery is a giver of power, it also can be a taker...if you parallel multiple batteries of varying levels of charge and condition there can be significant current flow going on there with out even an atty attached to it...just don't want to see someone get hurt (or burn their house down)
Actually, those are brand spanking new.
You can even get various sizes with protection boards already installed.
like here's one place
7.4V 400mAh - 1800mAh Battery Modules
just saying.
You can even get various sizes with protection boards already installed.
like here's one place
7.4V 400mAh - 1800mAh Battery Modules
just saying.
WOW, just think if you had two of these, a protection circuit,
and a variable wattage circuit
Thats where I was headed. Two brand new LI-PO 3.7v, 1100 mAH, 20C batteries with protection circuit and a VV circuit in a very slim case throw in a meter and you have a nice small mod. Not as good as a Darwin because I have no clue how to keep the watts steady.
Ok, this has got me thinking now...I work with a guy who's kid is in 3rd year core electronics at our local tech school. I'll take him one of my box mods, tell him what I'm looking for and see if he'll design and breadboard me a poor mans "Darwin" circuit...as a student they're usually hurting for cash, $100 after components should do it...
It's essentially a smart watt meter stepping a voltage regulator...design in a current limiter to say 2.5A - 3A so you don't pop to many attys, add a 3 digit LED display for watts/volts/ohms as well as a battery charge indicator that read in percent remaining...It'll add a 4 position selector switch and a potentiometer to your box but would take box mods to a whole new level...
God, smoking cigarettes was so much easier...all I needed was a lighter.
It's essentially a smart watt meter stepping a voltage regulator...design in a current limiter to say 2.5A - 3A so you don't pop to many attys, add a 3 digit LED display for watts/volts/ohms as well as a battery charge indicator that read in percent remaining...It'll add a 4 position selector switch and a potentiometer to your box but would take box mods to a whole new level...
God, smoking cigarettes was so much easier...all I needed was a lighter.
Sounds great. If you can get him to draw a circuit diagram and component list to post here that would be awesome. Any pictures of the actual wiring would really help too. I am new to electronics so monkey see monkey do is pretty much where I am at skill wise.
"I've been smoking 30 years, my lung feels great." Andrew Dice Clay
"I've been smoking 30 years, my lung feels great." Andrew Dice Clay
- Status
