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penguiness

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TheDigital, you can twist a strand of Kanthal in with that nickel to get a thicker vapor. You need to figure out your ohms first, though, as you will see a wider spread in resistance with a Kanthal/nickel hybrid. Your TC won't be quite as accurate, either. Get familiar with a nickel only so you can be prepared with a hybrid.

You may want to adjust the 510 to make sure you are making a solid connection, too.
 

distortoblotto

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Don't have an SX just yet myself but I do know this, with a dna chip if you don't capture the coil legs directly "under" the screws, it can cause the resistance to jump around. I.E You do not want the wire touching the posts on either side of the screws. The trick here is to leave the legs long enough so that you can hold the atty with the left hand between the middle finger and the thumb and use the index finger to center the legs ( one at a time) while tightening down the grubs with the right. Of course this would be vise versa is you happen to be a south paw.

Edit: Good and secure connections are a must. Once you have the coils good and snug, diddle them with your finger a bit. If one of the coil legs loosely moves at all, you do not have a secure connection.
 
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TheDigital99

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Tbev - Thank you for letting me hijack your thread! I assume with the SX's rolling out there has to be another TC "dunce" like me :D

I tried a different atty, I tried a stumpy this time, but I had to crank the Joules up to 70 to get a decent vape.. This worked out to be 6.69v on a single 18650 battery life is measured in minutes not hours...:mad:

I am going to try a dual titanium build next, just gotta see how much I can cram into the Stumpy

Picture of my single in the Stumpy

1001151053_2.jpg
 

Chowderhead1972

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If I may be so bold.....
I was under the distinct impression when building for TC the wraps of the coil needed to be close together but not actually touching and all wraps needed to be nearly the same spacing. That coil you have shown would be very inefficient in a kanthal build, I would imagine it would be much worse in temp control, hence explaining the unusually high setting needed and the short battery life. I would look for a 2" #14 drywall screw to be used as a jig to keep the spacing uniform. Using a "coarse" drywall screw would still allow you to used a spaced coil but not quite as spaced.
 
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RobbieVape

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Correct Tom, that coil is two far spread digital. Easy way for stumpy do 10/11 spaced wraps and then squeeze them together, they will bounce back, keep doing until gaps are at least half the distance you have, they all have to be even too, use a blade to space could if distorted when putting wick in. 10/11 wraps on a 2.5 28 gauge should give you around 0.14.fire at 25-30 watts will give a wet and soppy vape


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TheDigital99

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If I may be so bold.....
I was under the distinct impression when building for TC the wraps of the coil needed to be close together but not actually touching and all wraps needed to be nearly the same spacing. That coil you have shown would be very inefficient in a kanthal build, I would imagine it would be much worse in temp control, hence explaining the unusually high setting needed and the short battery life. I would look for a 2" #14 drywall screw to be used as a jig to keep the spacing uniform. Using a "coarse" drywall screw would still allow you to used a spaced coil but not quite as spaced.

Chowder,

I have some screws, I am experimenting on to see if I can get a nice even spaced coil...

For the heck of it, I built two tensioned micro coils (Ti) and mounted them on the stump... Coming in at .22 ohms... At 25J 2.12v, I am getting a great vape... What I expected... So I am going to give this a test drive for a while and see how it works out.. I will be replacing them soon with tighter and cleaner coils.. They are not perfect coils and I have built much better with kanthal

1001151138a_2.jpg
 

d4gger

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You have to detach the atomizer to get a new reading?
No. I don't have a 350J yet, but I do have one cheap sx mod. Let the atty cool (for a half hour or so) and hold the up and down buttons simultaneously for a second. The device sends a very low power pulse to the coil, measures the current, and displays and records the coil's resistance. This is the lock resistance, which tells the device what the resistance will be for any given wire temperature.

With DNAish devices the atty must be allowed to cool, threaded to the device, the fire button pressed, and "new coil" selected. The device then records the resistance as the base resistance.

For both, the mod needs a base resistance to work from. They just get that resistance slightly differently.
 
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rudedog

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I am starting to figure it out, there definitely is a learning curve and a I hope its worth it :unsure:


its worth it just keep messing with it D99.the gaps in your first coil was the 1st thing to fix.if your like me ya messin with these things or youd have a tank with a coil in it.youll get it man.i did.i just wish it hadn't messed with my asthma.
 
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