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Okay.
That is a variance I would consider 'large'.
I haven't used a SS build in a long time. My NiFe 48 (Alloy 52) varies between one to two degrees, at the most. Used 316, 316L, 317, and, 430, finding 430 most predictable.
Tell us about your build, ID, wraps, contact/spaced, resulting Ω's, and, watts and preheat. Which atomizer?
Do you "pulse" the coil before use? The latter was the great bugaboo with SS. Don't pulse and you are certain to get erratic behavior.
In regards to all the temp control talk: If we can come up with a perfect temp control file I would be happy to install it on the future LBCs and leave it here for current LBC users to download. I'm not sure if anyone noticed or not but the LBC run that shipped last week has both of the Catfish AM and the Catfish AM 200 splash screens. I'm not against temp control in a bottom feed scenario it's just that it hasn't been reliable so far. To me reliability and performance must go hand in hand; one without the other is worthless. I I can't get 50-60w out of a device all day everyday and 100% consistency like kanthal or SS in power mode in the LBC I don't want it and I won't release it, PERIOD.
I bet it would work great for me; I love overdriven coils. Anytime I build a coil and insert the specs into steam engine the results come up in the red zone. Anytime I use a green zone coil build it seems flat, IMO temp control is only happy if,you stay in the green zone.
Put the stumpy back on with a single 26g 6 wrap parallel coming in at .39. Enjoying the vape I'm getting in power mode. Extremely happy with my LBC.
One thing worth noting is that the initial setup of a TC coil is very important. If that is not done properly, TC will never work that good. Both the mod and the coils should be at room temperature when setup. If one is off, it won't work properly. I have not changed anything about the ss file that came with the mod. It works for me, Paul and my wife. When I compared the TC graph with the one on Steam Engine, it looked exactly the same and I felt no need to change it. I would share my file, but there is no reason to as I'm still using Tom's.
When I go to do a new TC coil, I usually haven't used the LBC for a minimum of 30 minutes or so (I usually do this after it has come off the charger). I use my coil master to dry burn the coils and get rid of all the hot spots. You should never use the LBC to dry burn because it will still be hot when you pair it with the atty. if you don't have a coil master, just use another mod to dry burn. I then wick and wet the wick and by the time I'm done wicking and wetting, the atty has cooled down enough to pair it with the LBC. I then hit the fire button once to get the LBC to read the ohms of the coil and then lock the ohms. Squonk and then vape away.
Temperature is the driving force in output. If you set your temp to something like 410, you can hit it with all the watts you want, but as soon as it hits the temperature you have set, it will throttle the watts back to limit the temperature. If you are hitting the TC limit all the time at a certain wattage, you need to increase the temperature or reduce the watts.
When I go to do a new TC coil, I usually haven't used the LBC for a minimum of 30 minutes or so (I usually do this after it has come off the charger). I use my coil master to dry burn the coils and get rid of all the hot spots. You should never use the LBC to dry burn because it will still be hot when you pair it with the atty. if you don't have a coil master, just use another mod to dry burn. I then wick and wet the wick and by the time I'm done wicking and wetting, the atty has cooled down enough to pair it with the LBC. I then hit the fire button once to get the LBC to read the ohms of the coil and then lock the ohms. Squonk and then vape away.
Temperature is the driving force in output. If you set your temp to something like 410, you can hit it with all the watts you want, but as soon as it hits the temperature you have set, it will throttle the watts back to limit the temperature. If you are hitting the TC limit all the time at a certain wattage, you need to increase the temperature or reduce the watts.
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Try temp dominant for TC as that is what made me switch all my profiles.
Stock Evolv SS profile works great with Temco 316L wire IMHO.
Stock Evolv SS profile works great with Temco 316L wire IMHO.
to add to what natgaman said, if you run spaced coils it's even easier because you don't even need to dry burn, you can build right on the mod. I use a coilmaster to wrap a coil then after it's wrapped I stretch it slightly like a spring, just enough that it's not a fullycompressed coil. if you have really good connections all around you really don't even need to lock the ohms.
last thing, about 316ss, you should try to avoid setting the wattage way above your vape because 316 really has a saw tooth line at the temp control limit and if you set the wattage way high it will hunt above and below temp even more violently as it overshoots then over compensates. with any other wire you can set it to anything and it will self regulate just fine, even set it to 200 watts no problem, but with 316 in particular on the dna200 it's a little more finicky so try to set it to only a little above the power level you intend. the dna75 has better algorithms for 316 and doesn't really have this problem. everyone is waiting for evolv to update the dna200 to the firmware that the 75 has as far as how it handles 316 in particular
last thing, about 316ss, you should try to avoid setting the wattage way above your vape because 316 really has a saw tooth line at the temp control limit and if you set the wattage way high it will hunt above and below temp even more violently as it overshoots then over compensates. with any other wire you can set it to anything and it will self regulate just fine, even set it to 200 watts no problem, but with 316 in particular on the dna200 it's a little more finicky so try to set it to only a little above the power level you intend. the dna75 has better algorithms for 316 and doesn't really have this problem. everyone is waiting for evolv to update the dna200 to the firmware that the 75 has as far as how it handles 316 in particular
Thanks for all the great info. I had wondered about the firmware issue. SS has been a little quirky for me. When it works correctly it's great!!
I don't have the patients to use TC, power mode works just fine. Think I'm squonking while I sleep, unconsciously...no dry hits...
I don't have the patients to use TC, power mode works just fine. Think I'm squonking while I sleep, unconsciously...no dry hits...
Yes, you either love it or hate it. Different strokes for different folks.
TC is just OK. Maybe I just need different wire, too much mass currently. Just can't get the flavor I want.
For now Kanthal is better.
For now Kanthal is better.
I don't have the patients to use TC, power mode works just fine. Think I'm squonking while I sleep, unconsciously...no dry hits...
What kind of wire are you using? Kanthal?
I'm anxious to try the NiFe I ordered.
I really urge people to give the ss316L 2X28g / 40g Claptons a try. I'm running a single z coil in my Stumpy. Instant fire and wonderful flavor.
As I was about to comment on Tom's post above: TC wires versus Kanthal A1 is Apples to Orangutangs...
All you need to do to confirm that is open three tabs in your browser, load Steam-Engine in each, choose NiFe (48 or 70), SS 316, and Kanthal. Then compare the "Heat flux" at, say, 50 Watts.
Kanthal is a wild, uncontrollable, tiger (to mix my metaphors) compared to every TC wire. And that, of course, is the point: Apples to Orangoutangs.
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