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Chowderhead1972

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I'm just going to leave this right here:

I have been promised the slash inside the board compartment will not be there on the rest of them.

Game changer? You tell me.
 

puffon

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    Tom, In the Maker thread, there was talk of a "food grade plastic" mounted in the base.
    If so, do you see it as a problem? Just wondering why it's there.
    Also, regarding AFC, can it close down without "air leakage", it looks similar to the Rogue.
    My issue with the Rogue is no matter where the AFC was set, it won't close down.
     
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    Nautilusfan

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    View attachment 544770 I'm just going to leave this right here:

    I have been promised the slash inside the board compartment will not be there on the rest of them.

    Game changer? You tell me.

    Game changer....you betcha!!! :thumbs: Would really like to see the carbon print Maker next to the carbon fiber LBC door ;)
     

    skillzizzo

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    So I have been running a dual parallel 24 gauge in the thump for awhile is what I found I liked. I decided today I wanted to c what actually would fit in it. Here is a dual parallel clapton build I put in it today 26 gauge inner 32 gauge outer clapton kanthal 3mm id 3 wrap. Just barely fit. At the momment the 24 gauge parralell were better will c when it breaks in. Could for sure bennifit with more power. Is smooth with good flavor and good vapor at the momment
     

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    Kentastic

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    View attachment 544770 I'm just going to leave this right here:

    I have been promised the slash inside the board compartment will not be there on the rest of them.

    Game changer? You tell me.


    Looks awesome Tom. I'm down on the list so I probably have plenty of time, but I wanted to put in another vote for Red Anodizing. This the LBC is going to be bad-ash.
     
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    rudedog

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    joecarroll42

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    What's the price on the Maker rda? Looks like something I may be interested in. If it's as good as you're expecting I may have to sell off my Stumpy to get one! I'm in need of a top air Stumpy kinda atty. I love the Stumpy, but I make it leak fairly often..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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    Unior

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    What's the price on the Maker rda? Looks like something I may be interested in. If it's as good as you're expecting I may have to sell off my Stumpy to get one! I'm in need of a top air Stumpy kinda atty. I love the Stumpy, but I make it leak fairly often..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If I remember correctly I thought Tom said he was going to be able to do the Maker & the Stillare for what they retail. Which is $80. I hope that is what they end up being:)))
     
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    TheKiwi

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    The Maker Rdas are in... I will have the correct hardware to bottom feed them tomorrow. I will post up pics as soon as I get a few done. If I was to design an atty this is what it would it would be. Think manta with more air and no Philippino weirdness. All SS, top air in, side air across the coil, American made, fair price, comes with chuff and 510 caps as well as a wide bore 510 drip tip and an atty stand. I haven't figured out how big I will make the squonk hole but it will be massive. The maker will squonk and drain like few others. I can see this one being widely successful. Dare I say next Stumpy? The doc will be up soon. If you have ever wanted a dual post and top air atty that just plain works and looks great doing it; this is your next atty.

    My thoughts exactly. The rogue has been my top few arty throughout, and this is it but better: more air, no spinning middle post. 2 post set up. I've been going on quite a few threads spreading the word. Hope I can land one myself
     
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    distortoblotto

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    Other great news... I just got an email from the Machine shop making the LBC bodies.... They promise to have them in my meaty little fists by the end of next week..
    Who is getting excited now?


    Btw, I should have mentioned long ago I suppose the carbon fiber on the pictured demos is the cheap stuff; yours will come with the good large twill and much smoother expensive stuff. Google "Dragon Plate" to get a better idea. The fire buttton will also be 2mm larger in diameter as well, I didn't have an 8mm end mill to cut the hole in the carbon fiber but the cf machine shop does.
    View attachment 544757

    View attachment 544770 I'm just going to leave this right here:

    I have been promised the slash inside the board compartment will not be there on the rest of them.

    Game changer? You tell me.

    shocked2.png
     

    distortoblotto

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    So I have been running a dual parallel 24 gauge in the thump for awhile is what I found I liked. I decided today I wanted to c what actually would fit in it. Here is a dual parallel clapton build I put in it today 26 gauge inner 32 gauge outer clapton kanthal 3mm id 3 wrap. Just barely fit. At the momment the 24 gauge parralell were better will c when it breaks in. Could for sure bennifit with more power. Is smooth with good flavor and good vapor at the momment

    I'm sure it's smooth, but at the same time I'll bet it takes some fire button time to heat...:?: Nice build at that. Although a bit of a tight fit, the Thump seems to love the larger build coils...( twisted 3mm 28's to 0.3) With 2 1/2 intakes wide open over each coil, about as smooth of a draw as they come...;)

    Thump smooth.png
     

    distortoblotto

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    I get the same thing with my Pinch/Nuppin combo. I'm running a single 4 wrap MM coil.


    Just throwing a couple of things out there I have noticed with MM. If you don't get all the "folds" opened up enough this is more likely to happen. This is more likely to happen with 0.1mm thick ribbon than .07mm thick ribbon because it is more rigid. Using wider than 0.6mm ribbon can also lead to popping due to the longer "tunnels". I made some 1.0mm wide ribbon into MM and it made the atty look like an old time steam engine. Make sure the twist direction of the 3 "folded" strands is the same or that can lead to 1 strand not opening up proper. Run a lighter or propane torch down the finished MM to anneal it before wrapping the coil. Make sure and dry burn it till it heats nice and even if making a contact coil then do it a few more times to make sure there aren't any hot spots. I like to stuff the cotton in thick with MM. I twist the cotton tight then pull in the coil with enough cotton it will start to deflect the coil without a small screwdriver at the pulling end holding the end of the coil from deflecting. Sometimes pulling in the cotton that tight can create a hot spot that pops or sputters and I just have to pull the wick and start the dry burn process over again. YMMV
    Xb8dTR2.jpg

    Was about to say that there had to be a gap between the wicking and the coil, but I think Mr. Mundy nailed it. Can't emphasize enough the impact of the coil sitting in a puddle of juice or improper contact of wick to coil holds in relation to popping and spitting.
     

    Chowderhead1972

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    If I remember correctly I thought Tom said he was going to be able to do the Maker & the Stillare for what they retail. Which is $80. I hope that is what they end up being:)))
    Close... The Stillare will be $5 cheaper. When I spout of on the price I often forget about paypal's, piece, Chad's piece and the ever unfortunate piece taken up by the usps. If you want to pay me direct via the accepted methods from the clone run I can do them for retail plus shipping.
     
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