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Chowderhead1972

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I just got home from work and went to check the current test mule which was the prototype before the rounded back version but made of the same material. I installed a battery off the charger (@98%) last night at 8pm and checked it a few minutes ago at 7am (11hrs later) and guess what percentage the battery was? Based on previous results I would have expected to come home to 87%. Nope... 96% was the actual reading. Figure that one out.... so in 11 hours I lost 2% or 60mah. Based on the previously posted dna75 chart that's actually less than quiescent draw that it's supposed to have. I'm perplexed. I will continue the test for 24hrs and hope to extrapolate some sort of useable data. The differences between proto 3 and the production version is the bottom contact is glued in instead of being screwed into the body and it was programmed with a different file. Same firmware just different settings and splash screens.

Is the CA glue that the contact is embedded in insulating the contact? Or is it a glitch that my laptop has imparted on the boards of the later models? I will install the v1 isolator solution once I get some sleep and 24hrs later we should have a pretty good idea exactly what the issue is. As much as this makes me look like the kid that didn't do his homework I'm actually enjoying this. I live to troubleshoot electrical problems; seriously.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Years ago I got zinged when swapping out a fixture at an old mansion. Being a curious electrician as I knew the fixture was off, I investigated. Some enterprising electrician 80 years or so before had hooked hot and neutral to both of the 3 way switch's traveller screws and sent the commons to the fixture. Worked fine, but the bulb could be off with both the screw shell and center spring leaf hot!
 

Papa_Lazarou

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Looks like you're hot on the trail, Tom, but just to report in: my therion bf left on but idle showed negligible charge loss after 14 hrs.

All this really means is that the DNA75 board does not inherently cause this - could be a batch of bad boards or it might even be escribe settings (saw mention of this possibility in threads reporting the same phenomenon with the therions - suggestion was that bat usage settings could cause this). Your cf theory sounds like the most likely culprit, tho.
 

Chowderhead1972

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Years ago I got zinged when swapping out a fixture at an old mansion. Being a curious electrician as I knew the fixture was off, I investigated. Some enterprising electrician 80 years or so before had hooked hot and neutral to both of the 3 way switch's traveller screws and sent the commons to the fixture. Worked fine, but the bulb could be off with both the screw shell and center spring leaf hot!
Leftovers from a "knob and tube"electrician from days of old.
 

freedogg

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Tom my Jr is draining the batt as well. First time I noticed the drain I hadn't used Jr all weekend and when I went to use it on Monday the batt (20700b) was totally dead. Wouldn't even register on my voltmeter. Luckily my VC4 charger brought the batt back to life. The Jr has been a daily driver since I got it so I didn't notice till I let it sit all weekend.
 

inspects

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Tom my Jr is draining the batt as well. First time I noticed the drain I hadn't used Jr all weekend and when I went to use it on Monday the batt (20700b) was totally dead. Wouldn't even register on my voltmeter. Luckily my VC4 charger brought the batt back to life. The Jr has been a daily driver since I got it so I didn't notice till I let it sit all weekend.
I get error messages when trying to charge the two batteries I sacrificed.
 

freedogg

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I get error messages when trying to charge the two batteries I sacrificed.

The VC4 charges ni-mh batts as well as li-on. If the li-on is too low it will switch to ni-mh and try to put juice to it. After it gets enough juice in ni-mh mode it will switch to li-on mode. Luckily it worked on my 20700b and the batt has been working fine.
 
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Chowderhead1972

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Testing update:
As of 3:30pm today (18.5hrs) the readings are 98% allowing 2% for battery self discharge I believe the case is closed. The fix is a success. Now how would you guys like to proceed? Would you want to send your mods back and have me fix them or would you prefer I send out kits with the part and the adhesive to fix it yourself. The fix takes about 5 minutes to do but requires the mod to sit for 12hrs afterwards for the glue to come to full hardness.
 
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