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Chowderhead1972

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Tom, how do you like the o atty? Just got mine up and runnin and wow this thing is great. I have a couple of the wide bore caps on the way too.
Honestly? Out of the box with the OEM BF screw I'm not a fan...
Gripes:
Microscopic coil screws (either 1-80 or 2-56) terrible idea, very fragile threads, very weak bolt
Odd bottom fed pin. Sticks up well past the deck to almost afc level. Leakage is eminent.
Mine arrived with a negative post screw drilled and tapped incorrectly, making the fragile screw/threads concept much worse.

Solutions:
Relocate tiny hardware and plates to the trash can. Drill and tap for m2.5, install m2.5 X 4mm hex cap head screws. The screws fit the existing slots perfectly with .1mm clearance on either side of the head in the original slot. Wide enough to avoid the wire from shifting from under the screw. Perfect...

BF pin:
Lathed down a m3 X 6mm hex cap screw to 4.2mm diameter and shaved the head .2mm to yeild a 4.8mm throat depth. Center bored to to 1.71mm squonk hole.

Put it all back together and now it works like it should. IMO this is how it should have arrived for $180. Along with a $50 bill tucked into the spares kit.

If there is a v2 of the O-Atty that includes these relatively minor improvements the O-Atty could be a great atty. Until then I'll stick with my NarDas and ChinardOs.

That's my painfully honest opinion, take it or leave it. I'm sure your opinions will vary.

Edit to add: I'm currently using 26/32 Clapton wire with a 6 wrap 3mm mandrel coil and with the M.2.5 terminals there is plenty of room; I could easily dual coil with the same wire but I wouldn't have enough room for the 45 degree coil twist.
 
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Gigdujour

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Honestly? Out of the box with the OEM BF screw I'm not a fan...
Gripes:
Microscopic coil screws (either 1-80 or 2-56) terrible idea, very fragile threads, very weak bolt
Odd bottom fed pin. Sticks up well past the deck to almost afc level. Leakage is eminent.
Mine arrived with a negative post screw drilled and tapped incorrectly, making the fragile screw/threads concept much worse.

Solutions:
Relocate tiny hardware and plates to the trash can. Drill and tap for m2.5, install m2.5 X 4mm hex cap head screws. The screws fit the existing slots perfectly with .1mm clearance on either side of the head in the original slot. Wide enough to avoid the wire from shifting from under the screw. Perfect...

BF pin:
Lathed down a m3 X 6mm hex cap screw to 4.2mm diameter and shaved the head .2mm to yeild a 4.8mm throat depth. Center bored to to 1.71mm squonk hole.

Put it all back together and now it works like it should. IMO this is how it should have arrived for $180. Along with a $50 bill tucked into the spares kit.

If there is a v2 of the O-Atty that includes these relatively minor improvements the O-Atty could be a great atty. Until then I'll stick with my NarDas and ChinardOs.

That's my painfully honest opinion, take it or leave it. I'm sure your opinions will vary.

Edit to add: I'm currently using 26/32 Clapton wire with a 6 wrap 3mm mandrel coil and with the M.2.5 terminals there is plenty of room; I could easily dual coil with the same wire but I wouldn't have enough room for the 45 degree coil twist.

I've got one coming. Would you be willing to do your magic on it once it arrives?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Train2

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Also - not sure it I'm interested, but it's interesting.
Chuck posts!
upload_2016-10-6_8-13-45.png


upload_2016-10-6_8-15-45.png



Clearly geared to bigger builds than I run.
But I thought some of you might like it...if it's BF-able...
 

hotsauc333

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Honestly? Out of the box with the OEM BF screw I'm not a fan...
Gripes:
Microscopic coil screws (either 1-80 or 2-56) terrible idea, very fragile threads, very weak bolt
Odd bottom fed pin. Sticks up well past the deck to almost afc level. Leakage is eminent.
Mine arrived with a negative post screw drilled and tapped incorrectly, making the fragile screw/threads concept much worse.

Solutions:
Relocate tiny hardware and plates to the trash can. Drill and tap for m2.5, install m2.5 X 4mm hex cap head screws. The screws fit the existing slots perfectly with .1mm clearance on either side of the head in the original slot. Wide enough to avoid the wire from shifting from under the screw. Perfect...

BF pin:
Lathed down a m3 X 6mm hex cap screw to 4.2mm diameter and shaved the head .2mm to yeild a 4.8mm throat depth. Center bored to to 1.71mm squonk hole.

Put it all back together and now it works like it should. IMO this is how it should have arrived for $180. Along with a $50 bill tucked into the spares kit.

If there is a v2 of the O-Atty that includes these relatively minor improvements the O-Atty could be a great atty. Until then I'll stick with my NarDas and ChinardOs.

That's my painfully honest opinion, take it or leave it. I'm sure your opinions will vary.

Edit to add: I'm currently using 26/32 Clapton wire with a 6 wrap 3mm mandrel coil and with the M.2.5 terminals there is plenty of room; I could easily dual coil with the same wire but I wouldn't have enough room for the 45 degree coil twist.

For clarification I meant the flavor is great.

Everything you said is true.

I do NOT like the bf pin one bit. When I put it in I said WTF is this, why does it almost touch my coil???

It does need the catfish touch, IMO. To make it worth the $180
 

Papa_Lazarou

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Also - not sure it I'm interested, but it's interesting.
Chuck posts!
View attachment 604805

View attachment 604809


Clearly geared to bigger builds than I run.
But I thought some of you might like it...if it's BF-able...

It's an interesting design element, but all I see are 6 fiddly bits I'd lose (once the other 2 were installed). Also, the set with the largest aperture is for, what, 10g wire?
 
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Chowderhead1972

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distortoblotto

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