Cloupor Mini Mod 30W
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where you from crxess. im from virginia and missed school because of snow. and so is this SX chip really so much superior. if so why? makes me wish i had gotten the sig kind of. but im loving the cloupor and it sounds like they are standing behind their product now. i feel like somehow the amount of posts in this thread speaks to the popularity of it. or was it people posting the first batch problems that filled it up? lol
As to the SX130 - Not really. The Cloupor mini produces better at the higher wattage settings.
Now, the SX330 chips are another story.
The IPV mini2 absolutely slams the door on the IPV mini, Cloupor mini and likely the Sigelei mini ............ running comparable settings. i.e. 30w on all units. My 
I have all but the Sigelei, but Same Chip = same performance(on average) no matter what housing it is in.
I really enjoy using the Clouper Mini as my work device. Small form factor really makes it convenient and the Chip does the job I expect from it.
I would love to see this Box with a YiHi 70w, but the board is to long.
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Come on man don't tell me I need to get the IPV 70w now!! I'm almost out of tax return money, I was about to get a backup Sig!!!As to the SX130 - Not really. The Cloupor mini produces better at the higher wattage settings.
Now, the SX330 chips are another story.
I have all but the Sigelei, but Same Chip = same performance(on average) no matter what housing it is in.
I really enjoy using the Clouper Mini as my work device. Small form factor really makes it convenient and the Chip does the job I expect from it.
I would love to see this Box with a YiHi 70w, but the board is to long.
come on man don't tell me i need to get the ipv 70w now!! I'm almost out of tax return money, i was about to get a backup sig!!!
Diversity!
The IPV mini2 absolutely slams the door on the IPV mini, Cloupor mini and likely the Sigelei mini ............ running comparable settings. i.e. 30w on all units. My
crxess,
That's my experience also.
Like you, I don't have the Sigelei Mini 30 (nor any of the higher-wattage Sigelei boxes), but I do have a Cloupor Mini 30W, five 20W iSticks, two iStick 30s, and an iPV Mini 2 70W, with an iStick 50 on the way. My iPV Mini 2 provides a more potent vape than either the Cloupor Mini or any of the iStick 20/30 at any comparable wattage.
Is this like the Mean vs. RMS calibration issue on the iStick 20s, where juice in regular clearos tastes burnt at low wattage? Somehow I don't think so. The greater potency of the iPV Mini 2 registers for me not as "more watts" (or more heat), but rather as a "fuller," more satisfying vape, i.e., more vapor and flavor, and seems to be the case with both tanks and drippers. The difference between the various boxes isn't "night and day," but it is noticeable. I look forward to getting my iStick 50W to see how it fares in this regard.
Common sense suggests that vaping at 15 watts should feel like 15 watts, 20 watts like 20, etc., regardless of the device or regulating chip used to produce it. And yet, most of my older VV tubes (VAMOs, ZMax, Buzz Pro, ProVari, Kicked Mechanicals---all of which max out at 12 or 15 watts---feel anemic compared to my newer, higher-wattage regulated box mods used at the same settings.
Sure, PWM versus RMS/flat DC probably matters, especially in the implementation of PWM (duty cycles, filtering, etc.), and amp limits surely come into play here (some regulating chips automatically reduce the voltage delivered to the coils to stay within the chip's amp ceiling, but don't indicate that reduction on the displayed settings).
I'm not an engineer---all I know about this comes from my personal experience as a vaper or from what I've learned by reading online forums. The fact remains, though, that l prefer my iPV Mini 2 to any of my other new boxes, based solely on vape quality. I also appreciate the five user-selectable presets of the iPV Mini 2 Yihi SX330V2C chip. I wasn't sure I'd like the fiddly button-pressing sequence of the presets, but they've turned out to be simple to set and a very welcome convenience. Meanwhile, my Cloupor Mini has settled into second place in the pecking order, based on its tiny size and low price (I got the gearbest $29.99 deal).
I agree that a single 18650 is not an adequate power source for a 70W mod, but with a caveat: That's true if you vape at 70 watts.
Like you, I haven't found a reason yet to vape at anything more than 30 watts. In fact, most of my current vaping is from 15-20 watts, with an occasional foray to 25 watts. Admittedly, I'm not using an Atlantis or Kanger Subtank Mini with 0.5 ohm coils (although I have ordered clones of both that are on the way from fasttech), and I'm not building multi-coiled RDA drippers at 0.2 ohms. Heck, I don't even direct lung inhale. I've been building my Erlkonigin clones, Magma RDAs, and Origen v2 RDA with single coils from 0.7-0.9 ohms.
I swap out the Samsung 18650 25R batteries in my Cloupor Mini and iPV Mini 2 always at the same time, usually twice a day. I never let either of them drain the battery more than about one-third (according to the displays) before swapping them out, and it's simple convenience to do them together. That takes literally two minutes each time. Remove the batts, place them in the charger, and install the two fully-recharged batts. Presto! Back in business.
For me, it's a trade-off. Higher-wattage boxes powered by two or even three 18650s are simply too large for my liking, while single-18650 mods require more frequent swaps. Similar trade-offs exist between USB charging and removing/swapping batteries. I like external charging and don't mind more numerous battery swaps.
Often, which tank or RDA I use on a given device is mostly based on aesthetics, as the picture below illustrates. The black Magma RDA looks beautiful to me on the iPV Mini 2, while the Origen v2 RDA seems perfectly suited to the Cloupor Mini. The iStick 30W gets the Erlkonigin by default, but it looks fine:
We have almost identical battery habits- I also like to swap out batteries well before they're "dead", usually a bit below 1/2 on the screen's battery icon or around 3.5 V on screens having direct readouts. And I always charge using external chargers (Nitecore UM10 & UM20 and Intellicharger i4).
I agree on the size thing. Some mods are just to unwieldy. I really like that the CM has a gentler radius to the corners, not as sharp as the DNA 30 clone I have (the DNA 30 is the limit on size for me). The CM's hefty weight from being made of zinc works on it but if the DNA 30 was made from the same thickness zinc, it would be like carrying a brick!
Just got a couple DNA Zero clones, both have 'issues'. If they're unrepairable I'm going to use one for a DNA 25 board w/TC. Maybe I'll opt for the DNA 40, depends on what comes up on the group buy.
I agree on the size thing. Some mods are just to unwieldy. I really like that the CM has a gentler radius to the corners, not as sharp as the DNA 30 clone I have (the DNA 30 is the limit on size for me). The CM's hefty weight from being made of zinc works on it but if the DNA 30 was made from the same thickness zinc, it would be like carrying a brick!
Just got a couple DNA Zero clones, both have 'issues'. If they're unrepairable I'm going to use one for a DNA 25 board w/TC. Maybe I'll opt for the DNA 40, depends on what comes up on the group buy.
I have found that you really don't need to charge until the Mini shuts down. I have found that when the Mini shuts down the battery is still at 48 %. Well within proper battery recommendations. But when leaving the house I do occasionally just pop in a charged one..........
Mine will run it down to about 20% if I let it go all the way to low battery, according to my UM20 and UM10 chargers.
This is what I find to. Around 20%.
Mine generally never gets this low since I usually put a fresh battery in every morning, but in the instances where I've run it down all the way, I've seen between 18% & 22%.
Wow mine don't seem to get that low ?? When I get low battery warning it's around 45 %. But just pop in another battery. I get my reading from the UM 20 charger.
another dumb derailing comment, but i tried the 30watt for 15 seconds on a magma single coil at around 1.5ohm. had the cap off. and what happened was the wire got orange and just freakin broke. mind you im a bit of a nooby to RDA's. how am i supposed to do the 15 second test. i dont think i could build a coil that could survive such high wattage that long. or do i need to run a dual coil to run the test. my serial number is in the 90 thousands and its been working fine for over a week. but cloupor site recommends everyone to run the test.
Any good coil should handle 15 seconds at 30w, from 30ga on down. How many wraps, what gauge, how long had you been using it, etc?
Don't bother doing the test. Very few mini's have melted down. It's under warranty anyway.
they said to test it. how long does the warranty last. and idk i think it was maybe 8 or 9 wraps of 28ga at about 1.3ohms. wicked with organic cotton, pretty soaked (apparently not enough? lol)
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