Confused about what watt box mod I need

[Magikhat]

I have a provari mini TI right now
I use a Carto tank 3.0ohm at 5.2 volts

I wanted to know what WATT box mod I should get.
I would think that I would only need 20 watts since the provari mini is only 20 watts so I should not need any higher than 20-30 watts max for a box mod.

I want to know if this is correct? Do i only need a 20watt box mod?

Also would temperature control on the new box mods help me at all using a carto tank?

I know some box mods only support 2.5ohm and some support up to 3.0ohm so I would need to be careful of which one I get.
I want to find one that is like the provari that has correct power for what you set and that does not lose power as the battery drains down. The provari hits great all the way to the battery dying.

Any advice/suggestions would be great.

So again the questions are
1. Do I only need a 20watt box mod?
2. Will temperature control matter on a carto tank setup at 3.0ohm at 5.2 volts
3. Any suggestions on a box mod that can handle 3.0ohm and delivers the exact power and keeps the power till the battery dies.
Thanks

 

[Cullin Kin]

Hi! I would first ask... Do you really need a new mod?

Most carto tanks do not come with Nickel or Titanium coils that could be used with temperature control...

Honestly, if you must get a new mod, the new iStick 40W with Temp Control looks perfect for you. It will allow you to still use your cart tanks exactly where you like them, but also you can dive into temperature control when you're ready.

Here is the best price I could find: 40W Eleaf iStick TC MOD Battery - 2600mAh

It's still on preorder but should come out soon. You may want to wait for some more reviews, however, after watching TVC's review... I'm sold. I'm getting one fascia.

ETA: You can also use coupon code: 5OFFNOW and it lowers the price to $29.99.

 

[Magikhat]

It is not that the provari mini ti is not an amazing mod. I am just sick of the pen style mod. I am sick of it rolling, falling and I am always worried about dropping it. I am past the point where i need to feel like im smoking old fashioned cigs.

 

[Magikhat]

It is not that the provari mini ti is not an amazing mod. I am just sick of the pen style mod. I am sick of it rolling, falling and I am always worried about dropping it. I am past the point where i need to feel like im smoking old fashioned cigs.

I just use BOGE 3.0 ohm cartomizers.. so the temp control probably wont matter
I tried RBA's but i cannot get the wire/coil thing down and i dont have time to spend on it

 

[freeall]

Get a sigelei 150. It'll do anything you put on it.

 

[alicewonderland]

theres a bunch of small box mods that come with under 40 watts. the vaporshark dna30 or istick are what comes to mind for starters under the ~100 price range. From there the power increases but i doubt youd get any use of them if you stick with your 3.0ohm carto tanks.

 

[petrotech]

is size a big concern?

if not, the sigeli 150 watt would do the trick...you can get them pretty cheap right now too.

I normally don't push high wattage, and the batteries will lasts days.

temp control only works with nickel builds, so you shouldn't need it with a carto tank, but it's nice to have if you wanna play with it in the futurefuture

 

[alicewonderland]

i see alot of people recommending the sigelei 150w. This guy is switching from from a provari mini Ti guys... unless of course he really wants to go on the other side of the spectrum, vaping on something small to vaping on something ginormous, then vaping at like 5-15watts to vaping on 150watt mod?

 

[Magikhat]

Well i want to stay under $100 i dont know why I would need 150watts if i use like 10 now
If i ever go to a RBA I could always just buy another mod but I plan to stay on the carto tanks for a while.

I was looking at the IPV 3 LI or IPV4?

I want a lightweight 20-50 watt box mod that fits in the hand and has a nice fire button

 

[alicewonderland]

Well i want to stay under $100 i dont know why I would need 150watts if i use like 10 now
If i ever go to a RBA I could always just buy another mod but I plan to stay on the carto tanks for a while.

I was looking at the IPV 3 LI or IPV4?

id stay away from IPV's for a while. There has been a lot of units out that are defective.

 

[roxynoodle]

I'm guessing with a 3 ohm coil, you need a mod that can step down. I don't think the DNA chips can do that. I'm positive the 100 and 150W Sigeleis will not work for you. What voltage are you using on the Provari?

 

[Magikhat]

I use BOGE 3.0ohm at 5.2 volts single coil

I probably have no need for a mod that needs two batteries to work

 

[freeall]

You don't need 150 watts, nor will you ever use it, but knowing you have it is a good thing, in my opinion. Down the road, if or when you venture into different attys/setups, the sigelei will handle it all.

Suit yourself.

 

[alicewonderland]

itaste mvp ~70$
vaporshark DNA 30watt ~45$
beyondvape solara dna30 ~90$
eleaf istick 30w ~40$

im honestly not sure abotu 3.0ohm cartomizers on those mods though, I dont think many new mods can fire those anymore. You'd probably have to step down to 1.5-2.0ohm.

actually the dna30 range is up to 3.0ohms, but that might be sketchy because most arent exactly 3.0 ohms, so if a carto reads like 3.17 it wont fire it.

 

[Magikhat]

I ordered 500 boge 3.0 ohm single coil cartomizers a few years ago from China got a really good deal they were only .50 per carto but my stock is running low I probably only have 30-50 cartos left so Im sure I can order 1.5-2.0 ohm cartos instead of 3.0

 

[alicewonderland]

I ordered 500 boge 3.0 ohm single coil cartomizers a few years ago from China got a really good deal they were only .50 per carto but my stock is running low I probably only have 30-50 cartos left so Im sure I can order 1.5-2.0 ohm cartos instead of 3.0

theres tons of 20-40watt box mods out there, some have built in batteries. If you get one that doesnt have built in battery you're going to have to buy your own, and if it doesnt have usb charging capability you might have to buy a charger as well. Just to keep in mind.

 

[petrotech]

i see alot of people recommending the sigelei 150w. This guy is switching from from a provari mini Ti guys... unless of course he really wants to go on the other side of the spectrum, vaping on something small to vaping on something ginormous, then vaping at like 5-15watts to vaping on 150watt mod?

I don't use mine very often, but when I do I normally run it 10-20 watts...and the batteries last me a couple days.

 

[roxynoodle]

Ok, with your 3 ohm cartos at 5.2v, you're running at 9W. So you need a mod that can fire 9W. The Sig 100 and 150W only go down to 10W.

The isticks will go all the way down to 5W. So will the Yihi sx mini.

DNA chips will go down to 7W.

Are you looking for an ergonomic shape?

Do you want built in batteries or a mod that uses 18650s?

Budget?

 

[roxynoodle]

As you look at mods, look at the resistance it can fire, and the output voltage to know if it will work for you.

Here are the specs on the Yihi sx mini m class, which would work:

 

[suprtrkr]

Temp control isn't going to help you with your cartos, the coil has to have nickel (or in some cases titanium) wire builds. But it might be nice to have if you think you might ever want to build coils-- or have the vape shop do it for you-- in the future. Think about that, buying a mod with TC is not all that much more expensive than one of the same power without. I just ordered a Snow Wolf 200W with TC over the Sigelei 150W mod without TC, and paid $15 more, just so I could get the TC to try it. According to the handy-dandy Ohms Law Calculator, 5.2 volts across 3 ohms makes 9.013 watts. So yes, a 20 watt mod will be more than enough. You do, however, have to be careful the mod you select will recognize and fire a 3 ohm carto. Some of them will not go above 2 ohms or so; be sure to check. You might not need a "mod" per se. You could probably get by with a mere VW "battery" like the iTaste VV 3.0 V3 or the iTaste VV 3.0 V4. These have a very small form factor, not any bigger than an eGo battery, have 800 and 1000mAh capacity respectively, are adjustable in .5 watt increments to 11 watts, both have a variable voltage mode as well, and both are "vape-while-charge" so you can keep hitting it while it's plugged into the charger. These are also both cheaper than a 20w box mod. For something the size of tube mod with a removable battery, the iTaste SVD or SVD 2.0 becomes an option. The first is a 15W and the second is a 20W VV/VW telescopic tube mod and will accept 18350 through 18650 batteries. They move up in price into the range of some lower priced 20W box mods and you also will need not included batteries and a charger, an additional expense. I have owned a number of Innokin products, including the VV batteries and an SVD mod, and have never had a lick of trouble with any of them. You can also find them fairly cheap used in the classifieds from time to time. I just sold a pair of VV batteries in the classifieds here, and will put my SVD up for sale as soon as I get my roundtuit all polished up. If none of those appeal, I'd take a hard look at an Innokin iTaste MVP 20W or the iTaste MVP 2.0, an 11W mod. These box mods have large-ish batteries so they last a while and make a handy emergency phone charger as well. They are also vape-while-charge.

To answer your questions:
Yes, 20W is all you need if you don't intend to try more power later. Dial it in to 9 watts, lock it down, and you should have exactly the vape you're getting now with your cartos.
Temp Control mode will not help-- can not even be activated-- on any tank, dripper, clearo or carto that does not use special TC wire in the coil build. AFAIK, no cartos are currently being built with this wire; and the wire is very low resistance anyway. A 3 ohm coil with Ni200 wire would be the size of a bracelet and about as heavy as the mod itself.
Any quality-built VW mod will deliver the rated wattage while the batteries are still charged up within the minimum limits of the mod (and assuming the wattage you require is within the mod's capability to provide at all). That's what VW means. Additionally, most (not all) VW mods also have a VV mode, exactly as you are used to. There's no reason on earth you can't switch it to VV mode, set it to your normal 5.2V and let it go at that. A well built one will also maintain that voltage within the mod's battery charge limits.