Cool fire 2 newbie questions

[MikeJones]

I just recently bought a cool fire 2 with the I clear 30B tank. It came stock with a 2.1 ohm dual coil.

Before this new purchase I had been using the basic EVOD kit from Kanger. I am running into new situations that I have been unable to figure out and I am looking for guidance.

First issue: Since I have a 2.1 ohm coil, and the mod is a variable wattage mod, can I use all the wattage setting safely as to not burn out the coil? The max voltage is 6 volts and according to my calculations using Ohm's law, I should be more than covered for the max wattage setting of 12.5. Did I miscalculate or am I missing something?

Second issue: the cool fire 2 heats up quite a bit. The whole unit, not just the coil and tank. Is this something to be worried about?

Third issue: my juice is turning a dark amber/brown color. The juice I'm using is from a shop here called CreateACig. I do not know the ratios and don't fully understand them either. Today has been the first time to really turn up the wattage and I still have a mil left in the tank. Does this sound more like a change in the fluid or the coil burning out.

Ultimately since dropping about $140 on mod, batteries, charger, and juice I am getting an unsatisfying vape. I have seen reviews of people vaping the cool fire 2 setup and getting tons more vapor than ever got vaping or smoking cigs. I enjoy vaping and want to continue to love it but I guess I have a learning curve to conquer. Please leave any advice you may have.


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[State O' Flux]

Welcome to ECF Mike... no responses huh? Well, lets see if I can get you somewhere.

I just recently bought a cool fire 2 with the I clear 30B tank. It came stock with a 2.1 ohm dual coil.

Before this new purchase I had been using the basic EVOD kit from Kanger. I am running into new situations that I have been unable to figure out and I am looking for guidance.

First issue: Since I have a 2.1 ohm coil, and the mod is a variable wattage mod, can I use all the wattage setting safely as to not burn out the coil?
12.5 watts is a bit much for 2.1Ω. 8-10 watts would be a more "typical" setting for a 2.1Ω dual coil iClear atty.
The max voltage is 6 volts and according to my calculations using Ohm's law, I should be more than covered for the max wattage setting of 12.5. Did I miscalculate or am I missing something?
I don't know what you mean by "more than covered". The way WW devices work - the wattage setting, combined with the microprocessor read resistance value are used to calculate and adjust voltage output, based on preprogrammed algorithms.
You can control voltage output, but only in the sense that you can calculate for an accurate estimate, based on known parameters. For example, "max voltage" will occur only if 'X' resistance values and wattage settings are in use. I'll let you calculate those 2 values to obtain the 6 volts you state is maximum. Consider it part of your education.

Second issue: the cool fire 2 heats up quite a bit. The whole unit, not just the coil and tank. Is this something to be worried about?
Although I've never used a Innokin Cool Fire 1 or 2, and there may be an issue unique to that model APV (If someone who reads this is aware of a known heating condition issue, chime in please)... in general terms, yes, you have either:
1. An issue where there is internal resistance (a resistive short) greater than the resistance of the atomizer, and power output is being converted to heat in the APV body. Unlikely with a new Innokin APV, but still, worth considering. I assume your device is still under warranty?
2. A faulty battery.
2.a. Considering the device has both short circuit and amp output protections, I'd be more inclined not to have a great deal of faith in the battery. Consider buying a high quality, brand name battery from a trusted source.

Third issue: my juice is turning a dark amber/brown color. The juice I'm using is from a shop here called CreateACig. I do not know the ratios and don't fully understand them either. Today has been the first time to really turn up the wattage and I still have a mil left in the tank. Does this sound more like a change in the fluid or the coil burning out.
Too many variables to consider only one or two causes. More than likely, this is normal, due to juice being both exposed to air, and to repeated reheating.

Ultimately since dropping about $140 on mod, batteries, charger, and juice I am getting an unsatisfying vape. I have seen reviews of people vaping the cool fire 2 setup and getting tons more vapor than ever got vaping or smoking cigs.
I enjoy vaping and want to continue to love it but I guess I have a learning curve to conquer. Please leave any advice you may have.

Yes you do. Do not be discouraged however, as anyone who wishes to learn - will. As you are already working with ohms law calculations, which is far more effort than most new vapists will invest, you are actually ahead of the game.
Visit the APV and clearomizer forms (and perhaps the second link in my sig line). Read, ask questions... and until you get the "vibe" of the place, do your best for now to sort the pearls of wisdom from the pails of poop. ;-)

cheers

 

[Baditude]

I'm not familiar with the Cool Fire 2, either. However, no mod or battery should become warm or hot with use. Juice attachments can become warm with use, as the heating coil is producing heat. Something doesn't sound right with either the Cool Fire or the battery.

Which battery are you using? You should be using a name-brand IMR (Li-Mn) battery, and not a protected ICR (Li-Ion) battery. Avoid using the lesser-quality batteries which have "Fire" in their name.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or protected ICR?

Vapor production is dependent upon using the right batteries, the type of juice attachment, the resistance of the coil in the juice attachment, air flow, and the vg (vegetable glycerin) ratio of the e-liquid. Also know that many reviewers use photography techniques to make it look like they are getting more vapor than is actually present.

 

[MikeJones]

Guys, thank y'all so much for the help and advice. Found out that we had an unprotected ICR battery in it and it required an IMR. My local shop has been great. They gave me a whole new unit and traded batteries for free! Can't beat that customer service.

I feel that I have now somewhat graduated from Vaping Noob to Newbie.

I do have a new question. When calculating (ohm's law: W=Vsquared/R) what max wattage a coil and battery can handle, do u use the voltage indicated on the battery or the max voltage of the mod? Also since the cool fire 2 is a dual coil will that double any values for calculating?


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[State O' Flux]

Guys, thank y'all so much for the help and advice.

I do have a (few) new question(s).

When calculating (ohm's law: W=Vsquared/R) what max wattage a coil and battery can handle, do u use the voltage indicated on the battery or the max voltage of the mod?

Also since the cool fire 2 is a dual coil will that double any values for calculating?

No problemo.

With APVs, the battery is source or input, so all resistance/watt/volt calculations are based on the APV processor power output values.

1. Dual coils are an odd duck.

2. Vaping charts and Ohms law calculations (unless, with Ω-law you're dealing with mechs and rebuildables, then resistance and continuous amperage must be in concert) are a guide line, not chiseled in stone... play with it until it tastes good.

You can start by using basic resistance, but more often than not, you'll end up at higher wattage or voltage settings. In your case, just wattage. Innokin (and you can find this reference if you dig around the Innokin site and some vendor listings) will, for example, recommend 4.5-5v for a 2.0Ω+/- resistance dual coil.
Which is why I suggested 8-10 watts for your 2.1Ω iClear 30B coil as a good place to start.

 

[Mutescream]

You will need to play with the watts, to find the sweet spot for your juice. I use the the iclear30 (top coil, non striped version of the tank) and usually use 2.1 ohm coils. The vast majority of the time, I stick to 8-10w. Some juices like more (12-14w), but the coils will die faster. When you use higher wattages, juices will tend to darken more.