Copper or brass clone?

[boomhower1820]

Just got my first mech last week, an hcigar Nemesis in stainless. I'm loving it with the KFL+ clone. I want another so I can take two to work in 350 mode with different flavors. I hear other metals carry the current better but is this true in the clones? Considering a Stingray but probably stick with the Nem for the hybrid conversion.

 

[charliehall72]

The material of the tube will not have much of an impact on the voltage drop of the mod. The one part of it that will make the biggest difference is the contacts. As far as which one to purchase, I would personally go with whatever one you think looks better

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

The material of the tube will not have much of an impact on the voltage drop of the mod. The one part of it that will make the biggest difference is the contacts. As far as which one to purchase, I would personally go with whatever one you think looks better

This is not really accurate, the materials of the tube and even whether or not the tube is one piece or multiple pieces can have an effect on the voltage drop. I agree that the contacts are also very important, but materials definitely play a role.

Obviously brass will be better than SS and copper will be better than brass, but keep in mind these metals will react with air/hand oils and create patinas (which i, and others, actually enjoy) but if you live for a shiny mod, keep in mind they will require more maintenance in the form of polishing/cleaning.

 

[boomhower1820]

The material of the tube will not have much of an impact on the voltage drop of the mod. The one part of it that will make the biggest difference is the contacts. As far as which one to purchase, I would personally go with whatever one you think looks better

This is not really accurate, the materials of the tube and even whether or not the tube is one piece or multiple pieces can have an effect on the voltage drop. I agree that the contacts are also very important, but materials definitely play a role.

Obviously brass will be better than SS and copper will be better than brass, but keep in mind these metals will react with air/hand oils and create patinas (which i, and others, actually enjoy) but if you live for a shiny mod, keep in mind they will require more maintenance in the form of polishing/cleaning.

Patina wouldn't bother me a bit, the two tone of the different materials will irritate me more, but way overpriced copper KFL nano kits are available. Would one of the contact upgrade kits be worth it? For what it's worth I'm currently using 1.5-1.6Ω and am going to try 1.2Ω but don't look to go any lower than that with the KFL.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Try the KFL at 1.0
It's a whole new animal and really performs well.

As far as the Nemmy clones go
The difference in VDrop from a copper Nemmy clone to a brass won't be noticeable if both are set up right.

Chose the one you like best.
Copper Patinas faster than brass
That can be good or bad depending on the look you like

 

[boomhower1820]

Try the KFL at 1.0
It's a whole new animal and really performs well.

As far as the Nemmy clones go
The difference in VDrop from a copper Nemmy clone to a brass won't be noticeable if both are set up right.

Chose the one you like best.
Copper Patinas faster than brass
That can be good or bad depending on the look you like

I'll try 1Ω, it's available from my builder. But compared to SS are they a marked improvement?

 

[edyle]

I'd be looking at strength of material more than electrical contact as far as the main body is concerned. Electrical contact points , if they are small contact point might have copper or brass for electrical contact purposes, but if you make the whole mod out of copper, you just add a lot of expense with very little gain in electrical properties but a whole lot a loss in physical strength and durability.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I'll try 1Ω, it's available from my builder. But compared to SS are they a marked improvement?

Everyone is gonna have a different answer but:
For me, not enough to matter.

I get a bigger power loss from 10 min of vaping.
It's not like jumping from a SS Nemmy to a copper one is gonna make some major vape changing difference.

There's a difference but its not huge or me anyways.

 

[Joka]

It's a small drop that can only be measured honestly not noticeable. The contacts do make a difference. My preference is brass with copper contacts. I love the look of a good quality brass mod.

*tH@--j0]{A*

 

[edyle]

Came across this little bit I found interesting about the content of lead in brass:

Lead content[edit] To enhance the machinability of brass, lead is often added in concentrations of around 2%. Since lead has a lower melting point than the other constituents of the brass, it tends to migrate towards the grain boundaries in the form of globules as it cools from casting. The pattern the globules form on the surface of the brass increases the available lead surface area which in turn affects the degree of leaching. In addition, cutting operations can smear the lead globules over the surface. These effects can lead to significant lead leaching from brasses of comparatively low lead content.[8] Silicon is an alternative to lead; however, when silicon is used in a brass alloy, the scrap must never be mixed with leaded brass scrap because of contamination and safety problems.[9] In October 1999 the California State Attorney General sued 13 key manufacturers and distributors over lead content. In laboratory tests, state researchers found the average brass key, new or old, exceeded the California Proposition 65 limits by an average factor of 19, assuming handling twice a day.[10] In April 2001 manufacturers agreed to reduce lead content to 1.5%, or face a requirement to warn consumers about lead content. Keys plated with other metals are not affected by the settlement, and may continue to use brass alloys with higher percentage of lead content.[11][12] Also in California, lead-free materials must be used for "each component that comes into contact with the wetted surface of pipes and pipe fittings, plumbing fittings and fixtures." On January 1, 2010, the maximum amount of lead in "lead-free brass" in California was reduced from 4% to 0.25% lead. The common practice of using pipes for electrical grounding is discouraged, as it accelerates lead corrosion.[13][14]

Brass - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Bad Ninja]

Came across this little bit I found interesting about the content of lead in brass:


Brass - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This pops up from time to time.
Common sense is required.

Lead in your brass mod!
1. That really doesn't apply in this context because that's a very broad attempt by a California legislator to regulate an industry based on anecdotal evidence off lead leaching into water systems from aging brass fixtures in water lines.
There are still brass fittings in damn near very house in Cali including the 6 year old one I am in now


Not applicable to and you hold I your hands.
No, you cannot get lead poisoning from holding a piece of brass.
This is silly.

2. There's lead all over your house and car.
There is warm, heated lead blobs inside the computer you re using to read this post.
All thing must be taken in context or the data is useless.

3. Don't steep your brass mod in your morning coffee and you should be fine.
I'll bet my house you won't get lead poisoning from using a brass mod.

 

[ukeman]

If you get in the arena of sub ohms vaping "voltage drop" is an issue (many threads devoted to this, and many more touch on the subject).

I never knock SS mods but I'll never buy another as long as brass/copper tubes are available, although its true that tube metal is just one factor in what makes a certain mech "great":
-performance (conductivity) = metal type. good machining, minimal points of resistance.
- contact metals
- contact and cap designs are super important for functionality. pos pin connector (top cap), and bottom cap (usually a switch).
How a mech is designed to adjust top cap to atomizer, and allow for batt length variations (to avoid batt rattle and misfires).

As far as the advantage of copper/brass over SS (which is more durable) although we are dealing in variables from .10's to hundredths, and even thousandths of an Ohm, when you get down to the .00x's or .0x's, it can be hardly noticeable if you set your coil up right, and i'd definitely prefer a well designed SS mech to a POS brass tube, but if you want to optimize performance tube metal is a factor indeed and good conductivity (less v drop) is better for batt life too.

I refer to the "jkuro mod voltage test" thread to see how many high end and some clone mechs rate in performance before I jump into a mech mod, but I'll always take into consideration the functional design factors as well.
For me, the switch and cap designs determine if you are going to love a mod ... or hate it.