Theres a few the ones listed apart from rta,s are bf ready-madeI didn't realize they were making all of those. Just curious, is the goon clone the only one that comes ready for bf?
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Theres a few the ones listed apart from rta,s are bf ready-madeI didn't realize they were making all of those. Just curious, is the goon clone the only one that comes ready for bf?
Yeah they make a 22 and 24mm goon , I'm thinking of one but I already bf my goon an my LP goon along with the Virus rda too which has tbe dual 528 plated clamps spring loaded , under over coil legs on the clampsI have a Coppervape Goon 22mm and the Coppervape Split Atty coming from Gearbest and they both have bf pins (at least advertised as such). Hopefully will have them by this weekend to confirm. I'm sure Coppervape has other models that are bf capable as well.
Ill probably modify bf pin so that excess liquid gets sucked out after sqounking.
If you have this problem then you are not getting complete drainage from your atty. What is happening is whatever remains in your atty gets cooked while you vape and then when you squonk fresh juice in your atty, it is mixing with the cooked juice and returning some cooked juice to the bottle with some of the remaining fresh juice...My reservoir/bottle was getting kind of dark by the bottom.
The concave bottom is ok, but even in the beginning VA used to drill the cross hole above deck level and it made no difference. Then Tom started doing pins for them and they worked really good for a while and then one day he decided the holes should be drilled above deck level because it fit his vape style with having excess liquid in the bottom of the atty. Its no different than the pins that some mfg's supply with new atty's except he drills a larger diameter hole in his pins...It would be nice if the mfrgr's would use the concave bottom like the original Cyclone had.
For those of you who have the Split Atty, is the hole between the two top posts supposed to be blocked? I've had leaking coming from the outer airflow holes when I squonk and I noticed that liquid is going through that top hole (it's the top liquid intake hole) and doesn't seem to fill the tank quickly through the holes in the post that feed liquid directly into the tank. The one thing that I really do like about that center post top hole is that it directly saturates the coils when you squonk... Other than that, I'm really liking this RTA.
I have the CV SA and didn't I like squonking overflowing onto the deck. I plugged it with a toothpick the first hour I had it. Should be tapped and accept a grub screw to shut it off IMO.
Doesn't the positive post on battery go down so that it comes into contact with screw in bottom battery cap on CV?
Your right,I didn't think of that.No, because the case of the battery is ground.
A break in the wrap on the battery could then cause a short with no way to disconnect it.
Its been said before but you can adjust the whole 510 part to sit lower so longer threads on RDA,s sit flush , on the top of the mod, Its fully adjustable via stripping it all down , but when you swap over rda,s they might not make full connection , or just throw on a tank , Mod gaurd rings ,On my CV the Narda,No Toy both have too long 510 pin so they don't sit flush on CV.
Narda is probably the best tasting atomizer Ive tried.No Toy is great but Narda a bit better.
Does the 510 pin on CV adjust?