Coppervape BF Mod

[BrentMydland]

Having a strange issue with one of my CVs. I had it for a good while with no issues. This particular mod has only ever had an oatty on it. I've taken it off and rebuilt it a number of times without issue.
I took it off the other day, put a new build and wick in it screwed it back on like I've font many times and it won't fire. Turns out its no longer making a connection with the mod which us strange because there is no reason for it to not make contact when it has had no problems in the past. I can't extend the 510 in the rda because it makes the post wobbly.

So I take the whole mod apart, clean it and it works again. Then I go to refill the bottle and when I screw the cap back on I guess it pulls down on the 510 because it stopped making connection again.

If I adjust the 510 on the mod to make contact the button sticks because it doesn't have the pressure to push it back up. As soon as I tighten the bottle it pulls the 510 back down and it no longer touches the rdas 510.

I'm kind of at a loss here and can't figure out what to do nor can I understand why after many times the rda stops making a connection out of the blue. Its like the 510 magically shortened itself.

 

[KentA]

Having a strange issue with one of my CVs. I had it for a good while with no issues. This particular mod has only ever had an oatty on it. I've taken it off and rebuilt it a number of times without issue.
I took it off the other day, put a new build and wick in it screwed it back on like I've font many times and it won't fire. Turns out its no longer making a connection with the mod which us strange because there is no reason for it to not make contact when it has had no problems in the past. I can't extend the 510 in the RDA because it makes the post wobbly.

So I take the whole mod apart, clean it and it works again. Then I go to refill the bottle and when I screw the cap back on I guess it pulls down on the 510 because it stopped making connection again.

If I adjust the 510 on the mod to make contact the button sticks because it doesn't have the pressure to push it back up. As soon as I tighten the bottle it pulls the 510 back down and it no longer touches the rdas 510.

I'm kind of at a loss here and can't figure out what to do nor can I understand why after many times the RDA stops making a connection out of the blue. Its like the 510 magically shortened itself.

It is strange that you suddenly lost contact, but there should be a small, clear O-ring in the spare parts package. Try removing the CV's 510 pin & installing the o-ring to raise it.

Let us know if this solves your problem.

 

[ST Dog]

If I adjust the 510 on the mod to make contact the button sticks because it doesn't have the pressure to push it back up. As soon as I tighten the bottle it pulls the 510 back down and it no longer touches the rdas 510.

Certainly odd.

You can use a spacer under the center pin as mentioned.

Or you can adjust the connector, you just have to do it right. Yoh have to turn the outer part of the connector to raise/lower it. Then you can tighten the center pin correctly at the new height.

You adjust the outer shell using the two holes on the bottom.

 

[BrentMydland]

It is strange that you suddenly lost contact, but there should be a small, clear O-ring in the spare parts package. Try removing the CV's 510 pin & installing the o-ring to raise it.

Let us know if this solves your problem.

The only oring in my spare parts kit is the little black one on the fire button screw. I tried using that but still no contact.

Certainly odd.

You can use a spacer under the center pin as mentioned.

Or you can adjust the connector, you just have to do it right. Yoh have to turn the outer part of the connector to raise/lower it. Then you can tighten the center pun correctly at tbe new height.

You adjust the outer shell using the two holes on tbe bottom.

Just took it apart again and tried that. Its already up as far as it will go and unscrewing it just pulls it further away.

Don't have a clue what is going on here.

 

[Robbert]

I messed with mine a bit today and tore down the upper half.
When I assembled spring wouldn't work.
I had over tightened the screw that holds fire button.
I loosened screw then turned button to off then snugged it up and it works good again.
I'll have to adjust mine for even the included RDA didn't sit flush.

 

[Robbert]

Certainly odd.

You can use a spacer under the center pin as mentioned.

Or you can adjust the connector, you just have to do it right. Yoh have to turn the outer part of the connector to raise/lower it. Then you can tighten the center pun correctly at tbe new height.

You adjust the outer shell using the two holes on tbe bottom.

How did you get it to break loose first time?
Mines super tight.
Is it lefty loosy,righty tighty or back thread?

 

[gt_1955]

It's a right hand thread, which means you turn it anti-clockwise to loosen clockwise to tighten.

 

[Robbert]

Things definitely tight.
I made a key by bending piano wire then used pliers but still it won't break loose.
I'll try some more and hopefully it'll break loose.
Finally got it loose.

 

[ST Dog]

How did you get it to break loose first time?

Small needle nose pliers. Snap-ring pliers should work too.

 

[ST Dog]

Just took it apart again and tried that. Its already up as far as it will go and unscrewing it just pulls it further away.

Don't have a clue what is going on here.

I wonder if the insulator is damaged, allowing the pin to sink too low.

This would be a great time to have a spare FDV pin. That thick head could help.

 

[Robbert]

They sell a rebuild kit for CV.It includes everything but it only has one plastic washer and the CV uses two.

 

[puffon]

The only oring in my spare parts kit is the little black one on the fire button screw.

The small clear o-ring was in the mod spares bag.
They don't put one in the parts kit.

 

[BrentMydland]

I wonder if the insulator is damaged, allowing the pin to sink too low.

This would be a great time to have a spare FDV pin. That thick head could help.

I thought this may be the case even though it appears fine. I spent about an hour reassembling and disassembling with each spare part from the spare parts kit and the a complete swap as well. No dice. I don't have any fdv pins at all and none of my other bf pins work.

The small clear o-ring was in the mod spares bag.
They don't put one in the parts kit.

I didn't have one of those in my box. It didn't come with anything but the mod.

 

[oplholik]

@BrentMydland Want a FDV bf pin? I have an extra one I'll mail you.

 

[BrentMydland]

@BrentMydland Want a FDV bf pin? I have an extra one I'll mail you.

Sure, its worth a shot, thanks. Shoot me a PM and I'll get you my info and send you some cash.

 

[crunchie812]

The small clear o-ring was in the mod spares bag.
They don't put one in the parts kit.

Cut a bit off the squonk tube with a razor. Makes for a nice spacer.

 

[BrentMydland]

@BrentMydland Want a FDV bf pin? I have an extra one I'll mail you.

Well my pin arrived in the mail today and I am very pleased to announce that my nonworking CV is back in rotation and working better than ever. Seems to squonk much easier as well.

I guess I'll never know why it stopped working all of a sudden but its fixed now. Thanks a million oplholik!

 

[oplholik]

You are welcome Brent. Glad all is well.

 

[Cosmic_Glaze]

Was thinking about picking up one of these mods. Sry have not read all the thread.. but I have one question. Not a fan of the brass color on the mod, Is there a realy noticeable difference in its performance? Thanks.

 

[TheWestPole]

Was thinking about picking up one of these mods. Sry have not read all the thread.. but I have one question. Not a fan of the brass color on the mod, Is there a realy noticeable difference in its performance? Thanks.

No. Technically aluminum conducts better, not that you would notice the difference.