I'm in if the "proposed" CLRBA is good-to-go. Its wait and see until then.
Been over a month since Kanger posted the pics. Pretty surprised they haven't released it for sale yet.
I'm in if the "proposed" CLRBA is good-to-go. Its wait and see until then.
Does anyone on here have this yet? The reviews are all over the place; still seeing users speak about flooding, but then reviewers like Mike Vapes aren't even mentioning it.
Would love to hear from someone who actually has it on here.
2 clarifications:Bottom line, if it gurgles, simply remove the atty, unscrew it from the chimney, turn it upside down on a paper towel and let the surplus juice leak out, then reinstall it....
...One thing I would suggest, I always make sure the air flow is OPEN, when I'm putting the chimney/atty assembly back in the device. This would allow air to escape, rather then being trapped, and pushing juice into the atty/chimney.
What is it you don't like about the Egrip 2? Have three of them myself. They dispense a very moist & flavorful vape on the Notch Coils. They are very capable TC mods and the notch will last a good long time in TC & is easily rewicked. A lot of people complain about them in non TC mode and I'll bet that is due to no direct airflow through the coil itself & the bottom overheating when Temp is not limited.I got two Egrip 2s Tuesday from the vapenw sale over the weekend and not real happy with them so far. I wish I would have bought a cupti if vapenw carried them. Right now I'm using a evic mini with a kanger cl tank 4 and it is working pretty good. It uses the same clocc coils as the cupti and I think the flavor is damn near close to the occ coils in my subtank mini. The first ssocc coil I used in the cl tank gurgled and spit real bad so I changed it to a nickel coil and it has worked perfect through about 10 refills so far. I didn't have high expectations for this tank., but I got It very cheap so it was worth a shot.
Good rundown...I guess the only question I have- is it "better" than the Nebox, and do you recommend it? I really do enjoy the hell out of my Nebox, despite the endless issues.
...and do you recommend it?.
I have all the issues you listed with my egrip 2 that I opened. The other one is still sealed in the box. I will probably sell it. I can't get it to stop spitting. It gets extremely hot in my hand. I hate the small drip tip. I'm tired of drinking juice. BTW what settings are you running your notch coils at in tc mode?What is it you don't like about the Egrip 2? Have three of them myself. They dispense a very moist & flavorful vape on the Notch Coils. They are very capable TC mods and the notch will last a good long time in TC & is easily rewicked. A lot of people complain about them in non TC mode and I'll bet that is due to no direct airflow through the coil itself & the bottom overheating when Temp is not limited.
Issues w/ Egrip 2 are:
I was very pleasantly surprised I liked it so much. Even bought a couple of Cubis tanks as a result.
- Horrendous spit back w/ notch coil that can be controlled w/ an Anti-Spit-Back drip tip. This is a must & why JT gives you the black drip tip w/ swirl. I use Aromamizer ASB drip tips and they make Egrip 2 a real performer for me.
- Limited tank volume.
- Limited Battery life.
Now I'm pushing about 450-470f @ 40-60w.I have all the issues you listed with my egrip 2 that I opened. The other one is still sealed in the box. I will probably sell it. I can't get it to stop spitting. It gets extremely hot in my hand. I hate the small drip tip. I'm tired of drinking juice. BTW what settings are you running your notch coils at in tc mode?
I appreciate your advice but I really don't want to open the other one just yet. It would kill the resale value. I am having the exact issues you are stating though. When I first got it the coil was reading at .28 and I had a warm vape at 330f and 30w. I reset it like 5 times to get the coil to read closer to .25 and finally got it to .26. Now the vape is the same temp at 470f 40w like you sugested. I just broke it down clean and dried all the parts along with the coil and it is doing a little better for now. Still spitting unless I pull on it real easy. I'm using the wide bore drip tip because that plastic one is to small and gets to hot. I ordered some bigger anti spit back drip tips from fastech, but I won't get those for a couple weeks.Now I'm pushing about 450-470f @ 40-60w.
When I first got the unit I had it dialed down to 300 deg and 20-30 w. It was wierd as hell. It was either scalding hot and spitting red hot liquid into my mouth or it wouldn't vape at all or was totally anemic if I turned it down. I inadvertently fixed it with the reset button. If the symptoms I am describing sound familiar, I suggest you open your other unit right now and give that one a try. It will probably work much more like how you expect it should.
If that one is fine, then contact your vendor and request a swapout of the malfunctioning unit while you are still under warranty because Joyetech's vendors will drop your warranty like a hot potato if you take too long to report an issue.
Thing was mine was reading correct resistance of my coil at 0.25ohm the whole time when it was acting that way. The hard resets that didn't work the night before somehow fixed everything over night and the mod magically recalibrated itself. Next day it worked like a charm.I appreciate your advice but I really don't want to open the other one just yet. It would kill the resale value. I am having the exact issues you are stating though. When I first got it the coil was reading at .28 and I had a warm vape at 330f and 30w. I reset it like 5 times to get the coil to read closer to .25 and finally got it to .26. Now the vape is the same temp at 470f 40w like you sugested. I just broke it down clean and dried all the parts along with the coil and it is doing a little better for now. Still spitting unless I pull on it real easy. I'm using the wide bore drip tip because that plastic one is to small and gets to hot. I ordered some bigger anti spit back drip tips from fastech, but I won't get those for a couple weeks.
2 clarifications:
- No need to remove atty assembly from tank - just inverting mod will have the same result.
I believe it is unnecessary to remove. Removing compromises any pressure differential that exist which would help keep juice from rushing on.Not quite sure how this would work... with the atty still attached to the chimney, the juice would simply flow up the chimney, coating the walls... once you turned it back rightside up, the juice (I would think) would simply flow *back* down, and again into the atty!
Guess I'll have to try it, but taking the atty off the chimney, turning it upside down over a paper towel to let the surplus juice drip out isn't that much of a hassle.