Current Regulation?

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mdocod

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I was just wondering if anyone has experimented with the current regulation instead of the usual voltage regulation. (for the sake of doing so more than anything)

It would require careful planning on atty/current combos, but I think it could be done.... just as an example:
A boost regulator set to 1.5A running from a single (large format or IMR required) 3.7V li-ion cell driving a 4 ohm atty would result in ~6V (9W) at the atty. Comparable performance to running a 1.5Ohm atty direct drive on a large cell, but now it's regulated a bit better. In this case, getting higher wattage at the atty is achieved by going to higher resistance atty's instead of lower resistance. (because the regulator is always trying to achieve a particular current, higher resistance results in higher voltage necessary to hit that current). As you raise the resistance of the load (which requires more and more voltage boost to drive) the efficiency of the regulator drops lower and lower. ~80% efficiency is possible when operating at output voltages that are less than double the effective supply voltages. Going beyond that is very possible with some designs.

Buck style current regulators could be used with 2x3.7V cell configurations to achieve similar ends...

My thought process being that there are loads of LED regulators already out on the market. They are often times cheap and easy to implement, and are usually on round boards which would complement a typical round body quite well. The only major problem I see is that some designs will self destruct if presented with an open circuit (no load) condition when power is supplied to the input rail.

A buck style current regulator would have the inherent advantage of never causing cell damage or over-heating in the case of an atty shorting out. The current is clamped to whatever it is supposed to operate at whether it is presented with a normal load or a dead short. When the atty shorts out, the power drawn from the power source drops down very low by comparison.

Another consideration... Granted I am very new to all of this so I am just sort of throwing out ideas: I know that with a filament in a light bulb, inrush current plays a role in bulb life. I wonder if inrush current is a factor for atty's... I assume that like the filament of a bulb, an atty has a lower cold resistance than hot operating resistance. Current regulation provides a natural forced soft start feature that could theoretically improve atty life (maybe?)

I would love to hear some feedback on this line of thinking.

Eric
 

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Gigaah

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You might have problems finding a LED driver that will output the desired current that will accept 3.7v input. Most LED drivers that are made for flashlights I think put out less current than that. Most that put out more current than that are looking for 12vdc input.

Two cells would be minimum I'd think for the application if you used something like an LM317 Current/voltage regulator. If you found a LED driver that accpeted 3.7v input and had enough current output I think the all the IC's i've seen need a voltage differential between input and ouput of around .5v or more. I could be wrong.

Its a novel idea. finding off the shelf boards might be hard.
 

pailpoe

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Hello,

Why do you run at constant current?
This is not necessary to drive a resistive wire. A simple PWM is sufficient to this task with a small micro-controller for control.
There is no need to operate at high frequency. The thermal inertia of the wire helping much.
See ULRA on this forum. My card uses this principle to drive the wire
 

mdocod

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I have a regulator in an LED flashlight here in front of me that does 6A to the die. Granted it's not the most efficient regulator and needs a lot of overhead voltage to work right, it's a compact round board regulator doing 6A into an LED. I have another LED head for the same flashlight that does ~2.8A across the LED... These types of numbers are becoming pretty commonplace for LEDs now as quad-die and large format high current dies are going mainstream. There are single die flashlights out there doing ~2000 torch lumens pushing a single die up around 10A.

I did a quick look over at the infamous DX, they have a single mode buck regulator rated 2.8A (designed to operate from ~7.4V input) for $4 (shipped).... Probably a piece of garbage but reviewers do admit that it functions.

You might have problems finding a LED driver that will output the desired current that will accept 3.7v input. Most LED drivers that are made for flashlights I think put out less current than that. Most that put out more current than that are looking for 12vdc input.

Two cells would be minimum I'd think for the application if you used something like an LM317 Current/voltage regulator. If you found a LED driver that accpeted 3.7v input and had enough current output I think the all the IC's i've seen need a voltage differential between input and ouput of around .5v or more. I could be wrong.

Its a novel idea. finding off the shelf boards might be hard.
 

mdocod

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Dec 6, 2010
169
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Colorado
Hello,

Why do you run at constant current?
This is not necessary to drive a resistive wire. A simple PWM is sufficient to this task with a small micro-controller for control.
There is no need to operate at high frequency. The thermal inertia of the wire helping much.
See ULRA on this forum. My card uses this principle to drive the wire

No arguments about the PWM. I just made the exact same point about PWM being perfectly fine to drive an atty in another thread last night.

I'm bringing the concept of using these already available current regulators to light because I suspect that the community has likely overlooked this potentially quick-n-dirty cheap easy option to go regulated.

The ULRA looks like a great project!

Eric
 
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