De-bridging The Cannon Atty?

[bladebarrier]

Has anyone bothered to de-bridge these?

I bottom feed it anyways, but I wasn't sure if the large bridge helps keep liquid from shooting up the atty, or if the wick/bridge is really needed at all when bottom fed.

I'd give it a shot now for testing purposes, but I only have two left, and with the store down, they're kind of like gold to me.

Thanks,

--bb

 

[vocr]

Just want to keep an eye on this thread. I debridge and dewick all my 510's but I've been eyeing my canon and wondering if I should do it to it as well or not.

 

[Switched]

The only atties I de-wick are the 306s. De-bridging is an old wives tale that has spread like wildfire.

 

[vocr]

The only atties I de-wick are the 306s. De-bridging is an old wives tale that has spread like wildfire.

I was just only recently turned on to just dewicking (not debridging) the 306. Was having issues with doing both on it. Let me ask you a confirmation question, do you leave the mesh on and only take out the white wicks or do you also demesh it and just leave the bridge in?

I have to disagree with you on the 510s though for me, exposing the cup makes a huge difference for me (though it goes through juice like crazy).

 

[Switched]

I leave the meshing as the meshing is the main wick so to speak.

 

[vocr]

Thanks switched! Now off to dewick some 306s.

 

[5cardstud]

The only atties I de-wick are the 306s. De-bridging is an old wives tale that has spread like wildfire.

Blame it on the old wives. I don't de-wick anything. I don't use atties very often though because of all the constant fiddling. I haven't found an atty that works as good or as easy as a tanked Fusion though.

 

[bladebarrier]

The only atties I de-wick are the 306s. De-bridging is an old wives tale that has spread like wildfire.

I leave the meshing as the meshing is the main wick so to speak.

One of us is confused here, or maybe, and I hope so, that we're talking about two different things.

Anyways, I'll de-bridge one in the morning when I'm less tired, and report back. It looks like it will be quite easy to do, but my eyes are going buggy from hitting the books today, and I just don't have the patience to do it tonight, especially after reading the snidley comments above.

The way I figure it, is if it's "spitty" after, I can always relegate that atty to using a whistle tip. I find I rinse out my 801 tips about once every 1-2ml vaped anyways, so condensation isn't exactly a new phenomenon with them.

I'll give it a shot at 6v as well, just to make sure it can take the punishment of an accidental dry burn (which I suspect it will).

 

[Switched]

The history on de-wicking/de-bridging or de-bridging in a less snidely fashion

Great steps have been taken in making the wicks burn resistant. It wasn't so once upon a time, and in some instances are still floating around.

Folks were burning their wicks getting a foul taste and wanted to remove the wick. The only way to do this was to de-bridge the atty (510s, 801s, 901s etc...) and wasn't necessary for exposed bridge atties e.g the 306. BTW de-wicking is the only cure for a burnt wick, which normally is associated with over vaping an atty, or vaping it too dry. Cleaning them will not rid the burnt taste and dry burning will exacerbate the problem.

The wick made up of proper material not only carries fluid to the coil, it also cools the coil = greater atty life.

The rationale when folks moved away from carts was why is the bridge necessary? I drip and want to get the juice where it needs to go - on the coil. The truth is it will get there in the "proper" amount with the bridge and mesh intact. Look at the genesis atty which uses SS mesh as a wick. From the SS mesh (the main wick) it delivers liquid via two tiny holes to the cup. A properly filled cup whether dripped or capillary fed will ensure the coil is getting the correct amount of liquid to be vaporized.

The truth of the matter is when most folks think that the drop needs to be dripped on the bridge is misleading. The bridge placed the mesh against the batting in the cart and wicked the fluid to the cup. But the main reservoir was the mesh surrounding the cup. Therefore dripping into this mass is where the drops need to go, certain drip tips are designed to do this.

Removing the bridge will leave a space (the thickness and width of the bridge) between the cup and the mesh making the atty more prone to leaking, whilst leaving the bridge in place will permit a certain amount of wicking away from the coil for optimum vaporization.

A bridgeless atty is also more prone to flooding and leaking, for previously mentioned points. It is a delicate balance between optimal and partially flooded or flooded. Vaping through a flooded or partially flooded atomizer in most instances is worse than vaping a dry atty (for the atty that is).

Most atties these days come with fire resistant wicks and hence their removal is pointless, whether dripping or bottom fed. The burnt taste most folks experience is associated with the spent liquid in the atty rather than a burnt wick. This liquid is incapable of volatilizing any more and should be blown out, or it will caramelize in the mesh and on the coil creating blockage in the mesh, creates carbon on the coil at an accelerated rate and a foul taste. Regardless atties are a semi disposable item with which we keep around for far too long past their proper functioning date, we all do it.

Is there anything else you would like to know from this condescending individual? In the end it is whatever floats your boat and keeps you off the stinkies that is important. At times you will hear things that you are not prepared or unwilling to hear, OTOH I don't blow sunshine.

Without malice...

Switcher

 

[loft]

I always stayed away from debridging just for the fact that my atties leak like a .... when I did, and the chance of dripping 'cool / room temperature juice' on a searing hot coil could result in damage to the coil. (Not saying it will definitely damage it, but the average ambient temp in my house is 65 degrees F so it *could*)

 

[mwa102464]

Has anyone bothered to de-bridge these?

I bottom feed it anyways, but I wasn't sure if the large bridge helps keep liquid from shooting up the atty, or if the wick/bridge is really needed at all when bottom fed.

I'd give it a shot now for testing purposes, but I only have two left, and with the store down, they're kind of like gold to me.

Thanks,

--bb

If you do give this a shot and debridge one of these Cannons, try this,,, take a piece of ss mesh screen, make it into a big cone shape and put it in the tube with the closed end pointing into the cup, make it big so it stays in place so the open end is touching the wall of the tube, it should look like an ice cream cone, a fat one. now drip into the cone and see how that works for you Bladebarrier.

 

[bladebarrier]

Irrelevant Stuff

That's a nice history about dripping into atty's, I'm sure, but before you derailed my thread, I was asking about bottom feeding them. I have no issues with leaks, as mine is sealed at the reservoir cup by a gasket, so any leakage just sucks right back in through the bottom.

Thank you for story time though.

 

[bladebarrier]

Ok, so here is a quick shot of the coil, and it mounted on a Reo Grand with a gasket at the bottom.

It is exceptionally easy to debridge this atty. It took maybe 10 seconds, and then 30 seconds to peak around and make sure there was no loose material inside.

So far, it's working very well. Less gurgle, less flooding, and very quiet compared to the "stock" version.

I used a small flat head electronics sized screwdriver to scrape off the mesh, pulled it out with no issues, and popped the bridge out very easily (in fact, it's one of the easiest bridge removals I've done). I removed any excess mesh on the sides, making sure there were no loose pieces that could get free, and attached it to the Reo.

Vapor is excellent, because it doesn't have as much of a tendency to flood, and the draw is very smooth. I would say flavor is probably no different than before, aside from it being more consistent now.

I can't really suggest dripping on this atty in general, if you don't have a catch cup. This atty has always been a messy one if attached to something like eGo, and pretty much all attys can be messy on a Reo if you don't use a gasket, but that being said, it seems like there's less of an issue for a bottom feeder now, as I seem to need less juice to get the coil wet, and don't have to worry about flooding it as much.

Pics:

Full size link if you want closer up shots:

ikenvape cannon 2.5 - adamefrantz's Photos

Edit: Sorry for the image quality. I shot it off my cell phone.

 

[Switched]

That's a nice history about dripping into atty's, I'm sure, but before you derailed my thread, I was asking about bottom feeding them. I have no issues with leaks, as mine is sealed at the reservoir cup by a gasket, so any leakage just sucks right back in through the bottom.

Thank you for story time though.

Same thing applies to bottom fed but since you are not interested YOMIL.

 

[loft]

YOMIL?

(10char)

 

[bladebarrier]

Same thing applies to bottom fed but since you are not interested YOMIL.

I'm not sure what YOMIL means, but I think maybe I offended you. I was just trying to keep this as a DIY fun idea.

No disrespect intended.

I'm sure you've used many-an-atty before, and are very astute regarding e-cigs.

That said, I'm quite happy with the outcome, and will be removing the bridge from these from now on. Your mileage may vary. I gave it my honest thoughts above; not to prove who's right or wrong, or how we all have our own preferences, or even suggest everyone else go out and start gutting their attys. For me, it worked, and it worked very well. I fully understand the leakage comments though. But then again, this atty leaks like a sieve anyways, so it's not one I would put on something that doesn't have a catch cup, nor would I use it without a seal around stated cup. That was the case before I removed the bridge, and probably no different now (though I still haven't accidentally flooded it since, which happened a lot prior to the surgery).

 

[Modrod.]

YOMIL = You're on my ignore list.