If your coil was 2.5 ohms then went to 1.6 that means it shorted out (electricity passing through wick most likely). Try a lower ohm coil, less wraps to possibly short out. You can try the rolling paper method, it does help. Even after I got my ss mesh working great I really didn't like that it runs hot (metal is a great heat conductor) for a chain vaper.
- Status
If your coil was 2.5 ohms then went to 1.6 that means it shorted out (electricity passing through wick most likely). Try a lower ohm coil, less wraps to possibly short out. You can try the rolling paper method, it does help. Even after I got my ss mesh working great I really didn't like that it runs hot (metal is a great heat conductor) for a chain vaper.
A 5/6 wrap should be somewhere in the mid 2's- not anywhere close to 1.6 ohms. It sounds like you're shorting it out somewhere.
Try going down to a 3/4 wrap at about 3.5-4 volts. Fewer wraps means fewer coils to short out/adjust.
I'm about to try 2 3mm holes and 2 mesh 400# wicks extra air hole and extra filler hole be right back hopefully oh doing it in the DID Clone griffin whateever 
Ill let you know
Ill let you knowxMackx always nice to see cotton on a Geni
As far as air holes here is a video of my new dual inline air hole mod for my mini DID clones.
I prefer the small stock Griffin air hole more than the large one. Sadly, the small air hole is too tight (even puffed light) & it hits one spot overly hot on the wick. The large hole caps are too drafty for me unless huffed hard. I took my large air hole griffin replacement cap & DID(pun intended) what needed to be done, to bring my idea to life...
I do not know the original air hole sizes, but the bit I used is a tad less than 1mm. I assume the two small holes I drilled actually allow more air in, as their total combined open area is likely more than the single large air holes open area. The two holes draw vapor loosely like the bigger air hole, but the air is not a single (little to no draw resistance) draft, aimed @ one spot one the wick. The new intake(s) still vortex air into the chamber with a venturi-like pressure effect that adds draw resistance?, I suppose as it spreads the air evenly along & inline with the vertical wick(not a single spot). It is new to mE, but I like it.
First impressions: More flavor & not too tight nor too loose, just right on the draw with even wick coverage.
I would have liked to do three 0.5-0.65mm size holes. Maybe next time
The toothpick is a quick fix solution. I will likely buy a metric tap soon to thread the hole & plug it with a screw.(or tap it to 4-40)
It would be cool to make a testing chamber with many size holes in differing patterns & screws to investigate air flow more easily, by being able to quickly reconfigure holes as needed.
I just drilled another hole vertical below the factory one, and you are right it's better to have more smaller holes rather than one big one. Creates a better vape with better air flow. It's different because it almost feels too airy but vapes big clouds of vapor. It's not like some systems that need a tight draw to suck juice up the wick. I think you're on to something Mister-E. That would be cool to drill holes symmetric all around and fill them with machine skrews so we could experiment with our airflow, I think I'll try that with my next did or phoenix clone.
I didn't read the entire thread so I hope that i'm not repeating info.
The biggest problem with shorts on these attys is because of the connection on the positive pole. You have to make absolutely certain that the positive pole stays centered within the little threaded tube and that enough of it is exposed at the bottom to make good contact with your battery/mod/apv. There's several different ways to get around this but all I did was replace the soft plastic inserts with a harder plastic (I used a small file to shape it the way I wanted it). I also fixed it so that the positive pole stayed in place and didn't rise while screwing it on to my Provari. The main thing this you want to accomplish here is to keep the positive pole "non conductive" in the places that it should be. I actually had a similar problem with my genuine "DID" so I knew what to look for. I can't tell you how many needless hours I spent over oxidizing my mesh and screwing with my coils when that wasn't even the problem. You have to keep the positive pole "center" at the top and bottom and stable (meaning that it wont move when you screw it on to your PV). I use the "did" clones on my Provari and I don't have any problems at all. For personal preference I over sized the air hole and the wick hole on all of my genesis type attys. I've been using both 400 and 500 ss mesh. I have an 1/8" diameter wick hole on the "did" clones and my wick dims are 40mm x 85 mm. I could make them bigger but this is my personal preference because I still get a very large wick and roll it to where there is still a very small space between the wick and the edge of the wick hole. This is not to avoid shorts (once you take care of the positive pole you eliminate this problem) this is for air flow. I've tried rolling over sized wicks "solid" jammed into the wick hole but I find that by rolling it this way I get more vapor, more flavor and I don't have to up my voltage so much by not having a solid wick drenched in juice (When the wick is that wet it takes more voltage to vape., ex. 1.1 ohm coil need 3.7 v)
PS.
I agree with the previous statements about more small holes vs. one large one. If you can get a few small holes in line with your wick then your golden...
PSS
I don't quench. Jack frost both sides before rolling. Then torch (one time) the end that you want your coil on. 2-3 juice burns and that's it.
PSSS
Fact: More air flow = more vapor
More vapor = more flavor
Maybe somebody can disprove this but in my world it rings true.
The biggest problem with shorts on these attys is because of the connection on the positive pole. You have to make absolutely certain that the positive pole stays centered within the little threaded tube and that enough of it is exposed at the bottom to make good contact with your battery/mod/apv. There's several different ways to get around this but all I did was replace the soft plastic inserts with a harder plastic (I used a small file to shape it the way I wanted it). I also fixed it so that the positive pole stayed in place and didn't rise while screwing it on to my Provari. The main thing this you want to accomplish here is to keep the positive pole "non conductive" in the places that it should be. I actually had a similar problem with my genuine "DID" so I knew what to look for. I can't tell you how many needless hours I spent over oxidizing my mesh and screwing with my coils when that wasn't even the problem. You have to keep the positive pole "center" at the top and bottom and stable (meaning that it wont move when you screw it on to your PV). I use the "did" clones on my Provari and I don't have any problems at all. For personal preference I over sized the air hole and the wick hole on all of my genesis type attys. I've been using both 400 and 500 ss mesh. I have an 1/8" diameter wick hole on the "did" clones and my wick dims are 40mm x 85 mm. I could make them bigger but this is my personal preference because I still get a very large wick and roll it to where there is still a very small space between the wick and the edge of the wick hole. This is not to avoid shorts (once you take care of the positive pole you eliminate this problem) this is for air flow. I've tried rolling over sized wicks "solid" jammed into the wick hole but I find that by rolling it this way I get more vapor, more flavor and I don't have to up my voltage so much by not having a solid wick drenched in juice (When the wick is that wet it takes more voltage to vape., ex. 1.1 ohm coil need 3.7 v)
PS.
I agree with the previous statements about more small holes vs. one large one. If you can get a few small holes in line with your wick then your golden...
PSS
I don't quench. Jack frost both sides before rolling. Then torch (one time) the end that you want your coil on. 2-3 juice burns and that's it.
PSSS
Fact: More air flow = more vapor
More vapor = more flavor
Maybe somebody can disprove this but in my world it rings true.
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You need more air flow and i'm thinking that you have a slight short too. Check your positive pole and make sure its not moving around. A good hard insulator at the top and bottom of the positive pole will take care of several problems. I always check my coil/wick set up on a dry tank to make sure it fires evenly too.
Well its been 4 hours and 40 min none stop drilled 3 holes made 2 #400 Mesh used 34GA kanthal Wire left one air hole the same as i was going to use one wick side the original other side i drilled 1.5mm air hole and 3mm wick hole lines up good kinda tuff thou. first original did clone wick hole and coil is 8 wraps and measured 5.1ohm's second with wire warping around center post to wick on opposite side to the 3mm wick hole wrapped 7 times measured 5.7 ohm's over all ohm's with this dual Coil Beast 2.7 ohms will be taking a picture and making it my Avatar pic the only real thing I notice a Difference with is the flavor is Very Good lots of it I'm Running it on my ZMAX Rev.2 at 12.5 Watts With RMS option up and running Very Sweet. Take Your Time Do It Right and you will be happy oh ripping Pineapple Express in it right now 50/50 18mg from my local online dealer IN AZ Jvapes told me it is for RB's and it is Vape on and thanks for the fun!!!
The positive on mine is tight, I seen quite a few people saying they had to use dental floss, non conductive washers ect. but I don't know if they're making them better now because I know they have made changes with the plating. The only thing I thought about doing is replacing the silicone washer at the base with a hard plastic one because it does squish a bit.
Here is a pic of the air hole I drilled below the factory one. I just happened to have a drill bit that was almost the same size that came with my proxxon rotary tool.
I also took some red nail polish and marked a groove that lines up with the wick/coil. I think i will mark the ones on each side black next to make it look professional.
I also took some red nail polish and marked a groove that lines up with the wick/coil. I think i will mark the ones on each side black next to make it look professional.
Attachments
thanks for your help guys. im watching the rolling paper method video right now.
i built a new coil last night. had a heck of a time building one that didnt short out immediately. finally almost an hour later i got one built, is was 2.3ohms. and it stayed 2.3 ohms for the rest fo the evening and this morning. then out of nowhere, it shorted. so i put it down and now i picked it back up and its back running again but its 2.8ohms. no biggie, i just upped the volts. then i started gettign metallicy tasting hits (dry hits?), so i tested the ohms and its back down now at 2.4ohms. the taste is good at 4.2v, but the vapor is paltry. if i up the volts, all i get is metallicy tasting hits.
how can i get my vapor production up?
maybe my wick is too dense...i could try less mesh if that might work(?).
i left my fill screw out because i heard thats better for air flow and wicking, but maybe i should try putting it in.
also, id like stop my coil from shorting out. do you think my wick needs more oxidization? ive torched and quenched it about a half dozen times at this point, but i'll do anyhting to get this darn thing working for me. im having a hell of a time over here. any help will be geratly appreciated.
It's probably not your mesh or your coil. Does your atty have the soft insulators at the top/bottom of the pos. pole? Does it move around any or is it in there solid?
The reason why leaving the fill skrew out working better. With the fill skrew in and a wick blocking the only other air inlet, juice wont flow up if air can't flow in easily. That's a large reason why I bored the fill skrew hole bigger when I converted mine for cotton. I even had a hard time filling the tank all the way because of the lack of air flow but all of that is fixed
Any chance we could see a pic or two? That would help a lot.
My Zen is out for delivery...
well thats great to hear that its probably not my mesh or my coil, because i thought i had done everyhting right as far as they were concerned.
yes, my atty does have a soft insulator at the bottom of my pos pole. well, im guessing thats what that thing is. it appears to be a silicone washer at the bottom of the pole, where it meets the base of the atty plate.
this brings up an important realization. while looking for this soft insulator, i have realized that my neg coil leg is touching up against it. being left-handed, i instinctively rolled my coil backwards (well, not backwards to me, but backwards to basically the entire rest of the world). i bet this is where my bad taste is coming from.
xMackx, I have wanted to drill the wick hole for fatty slivers of cotton as well, but I need to spend some time googling & pondering a bit more. I hope to find a stainless grommet type thingy with top hat type shoulder (maybe threaded or press fit). A 4mm drill hole for cotton with a fitting inserted to reduce the hole smaller for mesh would be nice
Here is a video I made of my Griffin Dud 'ja-ma'call-it forced air induction vapor production test/shootup/showdown!
(just kidding each hole set up vapes nice & every1 has preferences for a personal favorite[no shooting down needed] )
best seen in full screen HD
I dig my three 0.5ish mm airhole dud set up best, so far the flavors seem come forth best maybe from vortex swirling & more evenly cooled but warm (not hot) vapor. Just the right draw for m
Here is my youtube description:
After watching that if you have a computer that can handle it. HERE is a side-by-side-over-the-top mashup page I set up. The controls on that page are sometimes slow or freeze(just hit reload) due to multiple video @ once pipeline overload. They will likely load sloppy for most [on the first run]. As soon as you can hit "the master stop button(3rd button) & then the fourth button to reload them just to the right place then hit play(button 1) & enjoy(I hope). [If your chips can handle it do not forget to set the player to full HD]
[Adjust sound as needed]
Bonus! video: For a detailed "making of" the apparatus look in my youtube channel
I am enjoying my new DIY E venom soo much
I made a label out of an dragon image I crafted a while ago.
(looks nice even small.[big is awesome])
Here is a video I made of my Griffin Dud 'ja-ma'call-it forced air induction vapor production test/shootup/showdown!
(just kidding each hole set up vapes nice & every1 has preferences for a personal favorite[no shooting down needed
] )best seen in full screen HD
I dig my three 0.5ish mm airhole dud set up best
, so far the flavors seem come forth best maybe from vortex swirling & more evenly cooled but warm (not hot) vapor. Just the right draw for m
Here is my youtube description:
This first run is sloppily done, but it is a start. Future manual focus & a more consistent stable set up is needed, but I had fun & learned a bit too.
More air seems to indicate more dense vapor clouds & if the air inlet is a single big hole less vortex seems apparent. I am enjoying the triple .5 mm or so arrangement best for flavor. I had just compounded a new E venom & its flavor is new to mE, thus my vaporbuds were fresh & not dull both pre & post testing.
M.ultiple I.nline A.irholes should not be M.I.A! on RA products. RA makers improvement work needs to be done. I DID(pun intended) the research for you. I know by way of show
After watching that if you have a computer that can handle it. HERE is a side-by-side-over-the-top mashup page I set up. The controls on that page are sometimes slow or freeze(just hit reload) due to multiple video @ once pipeline overload. They will likely load sloppy for most [on the first run]. As soon as you can hit "the master stop button(3rd button) & then the fourth button to reload them just to the right place then hit play(button 1) & enjoy(I hope). [If your chips can handle it do not forget to set the player to full HD
][Adjust sound as needed]
Bonus! video: For a detailed "making of" the apparatus look in my youtube channel
I am enjoying my new DIY E venom soo much
I made a label out of an dragon image I crafted a while ago.(looks nice even small.[big is awesome])
Any chance we could see a pic or two? That would help a lot.
My Zen is out for delivery...
my photo is the last post on this page: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-i-did-try-frustrated-newbie.html#post7809336
sorry its such a crappy photo, i hope you can see whats going on.
Kemosabe, when my wicks are not oxidized enough & do a soft short out on the mesh, they most often do so where the wire first touches(on top or bottom & not ever for me in the middle). I can tell by seeing the actual mesh (& not just the dry burning wire) glow when it happens. that may or may not be of assistance now, but it is good to know to look for.
I B a left E too
My griffin/dud is sad with the plug screw in too & you have that taken care of.
The dud-type unit I used in my vapor shootup ran like a dream & I do not loose grip of my ego(pun intended) to admit two days before I set it down in frustration of multiple attempts to get it to vape how nicely I knew it had in the past. A couple of days later & my mind &/or touch was back in order just right on first attempt.
I do advise to not have any legs or as little as possible on these tiny units. Once the top is ready to go on, they should be gone for safety. If that neg wire touched the + post a spot weld @ best could be the outcome.
I can not see much detail in your image. Hopefully someone with better eyes may see something I may be blind to or you have a eureka
of some sort.
I do hope you get it sorted soon getting mesh just right often frustrates me(for now, it may be that I only have 350 mesh & 100 mesh )
I B a left E too
My griffin/dud is sad with the plug screw in too & you have that taken care of.
The dud-type unit I used in my vapor shootup ran like a dream & I do not loose grip of my ego(pun intended) to admit two days before I set it down in frustration of multiple attempts to get it to vape how nicely I knew it had in the past. A couple of days later & my mind &/or touch was back in order just right on first attempt.
I do advise to not have any legs or as little as possible on these tiny units. Once the top is ready to go on, they should be gone for safety. If that neg wire touched the + post a spot weld @ best could be the outcome.
I can not see much detail in your image. Hopefully someone with better eyes may see something I may be blind to or you have a eureka
of some sort.I do hope you get it sorted soon
getting mesh just right often frustrates me(for now, it may be that I only have 350 mesh & 100 mesh )
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can NOT get my DID to wick. had no problems with my phoenix and SS/cotton hybrids, but now i cant get the did wicking. getting really ...... off
That's how i ended up modding mine. Couldn't get it to wick right with mesh or cotton until I bored both holes out on it, works great now. If you do bore out the wick/fill skrew hole just make sure you don't bore through the inside or outside thread. I used my proxxon rotary tool with a diamond burr (better precision than a drill).
My setup:
DID clone with:
-28 gauge Kanthal wire wrapped to 1.7ohms
-400 SS mesh wrapped tight and snug fit in wick hole.
-all put together using the drill bit method AND no shorts/hotspots after first fire-up.
-Precise+ 18650 with Kick set to 9 watts
DID clone with:
-28 gauge Kanthal wire wrapped to 1.7ohms
-400 SS mesh wrapped tight and snug fit in wick hole.
-all put together using the drill bit method AND no shorts/hotspots after first fire-up.
-Precise+ 18650 with Kick set to 9 watts
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