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The large flange on top (visible on the image) would likely need to be cut off.....it looks too thick
the remaining section would have to be able to fit over the tube and _importantly_ be able to fit inside the gap between the outer wall of the tube itself - and the inner wall of the hole in which the airtube sits inside. So it blocks that gap.
(it must seal the gap but must not protrude out of it - which would stop the positive block from seating properly.
a small, appropriately sized o-ring fills the gap but is just fat enough not to fall right inside, defeating the object)
There`s not much of a gap so the thickness of the rubber would determine whether it would fit or not.
You would really need to get inside to see to know one way or the other
No matter whether it`s a grommet, an o-ring or a section of rubber, it must sit right inside there - preferably below the oval plastic positive block insulator to make the best kind of seal - due to liquid making it`s way past that insulator and then easily flowing down the outside of the tube and into the base - you want to block that passage right off)
It`s very difficult to explain in words but actually not complex in practice
the remaining section would have to be able to fit over the tube and _importantly_ be able to fit inside the gap between the outer wall of the tube itself - and the inner wall of the hole in which the airtube sits inside. So it blocks that gap.
(it must seal the gap but must not protrude out of it - which would stop the positive block from seating properly.
a small, appropriately sized o-ring fills the gap but is just fat enough not to fall right inside, defeating the object)
There`s not much of a gap so the thickness of the rubber would determine whether it would fit or not.
You would really need to get inside to see to know one way or the other
No matter whether it`s a grommet, an o-ring or a section of rubber, it must sit right inside there - preferably below the oval plastic positive block insulator to make the best kind of seal - due to liquid making it`s way past that insulator and then easily flowing down the outside of the tube and into the base - you want to block that passage right off)
It`s very difficult to explain in words but actually not complex in practice
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Anything will do as long as it fits & seals - unfortunately only you will know whether it will or not.
There are no doubt many things that would work, you could probably shove a bit of old chewed bubblegum down there and it would work ....temporarily at least
There are no doubt many things that would work, you could probably shove a bit of old chewed bubblegum down there and it would work ....temporarily at least
Get the ones from FT. They will not fall off. Not sure superglue is the way to go!!!
$3.52 Replacement POM Heat Insulation Gasket for Atomizers (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Well Fad I took a old o-ring and cut it then tucked it down and around the airflow pin, put the insulator back on , screwed everything back together put a build on ,ohms checked out . Tried a vape and all is good. Time will tell if my seeping is fixed. On a side note my glass chamber used to take a long time to clear vapor and condensation but now it's immediate. pooling inside the chamber has also stopped. Another couple of benefits found. Thanks again for your help.Anything will do as long as it fits & seals - unfortunately only you will know whether it will or not.
There are no doubt many things that would work, you could probably shove a bit of old chewed bubblegum down there and it would work ....temporarily at least
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So...is it true - there are no 22mm SS Sirens to be had and they aren't going to make any more ??
That appears to be the case. Kind of sucks.So...is it true - there are no 22mm SS Sirens to be had and they aren't going to make any more ??
That is weird. I have 8 of them and they all have a 6 digit serial number by the 510 pin.Nothing (but vliquid).
from reading all these posts i guess my factory sealed 22 SS sitting on the table is worth its weight in gold
If you go shopping sometime bob, I used a 4mmx1mm to cure all my seepage issues on my 22mm Siren and plan to do the same with my 25mm Siren. I put it under the positive block and around the air tube, then tightened the air tube down tight so the positive block smashed that 4x1mm o-ring flat. I noticed that even with that 4x1mm o-ring in place under the positive block that both the positive and negative terminals where the coil gets screwed down are still in a straight up vertical position, no leaning posts. Metric Buna O-rings 4 x 1mm Price for 50 pcs
Yes, that's what I also use. Double twisted 30g Kanthal A-1 (already twisted from "UD"), 6 wraps, 3mm ID, and I get 1.16Ω to 1.18Ω, but I run mine in TC mode on my HΩ Tech G2 in xxx mode at 10w and 93°C (about 199.4°F). I found quite a while ago that I got better flavour, vapor and TH using twisted 30g than just plain 28g or 30g Kanthal single wire (more surface area). I'm finding that I have better/finer control of my TC temps by going in °C vs °F, so I'm also going that route.
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